In this issue we are dealing with a subject on which I have received many inquiries in the past. It is about the selection or matching of tube amps for the best possible Jazz sound. Amplifying acoustic or semi-hollow-body guitars has always been a huge challenge because most jazz guitarists are very demanding in terms of sound and simultaneously fight against unwanted distortion and feedback. In the following article I would like to summarize some tips and tricks that get great tone and how to avoid distortion.
When I started getting involved with jazz sounds, around 1977, most guitarists in this genre used transistor amplifiers. George Benson played a Polytone, Pat Metheny an acoustic amp with a 4×10” speaker cab and Volker Kriegel and Michael Sagmeister used a Gibson LAB L9 with 15” speakers. Such examples can be found very often from that period. Although all of these guitarists had indeed very good tone, the typical depth and openness of a tube amp sound could not be reached however in its wider spectrum. Still the transistor amps had some advantages over tube amps: They sounded very compact and linear, were less prone to feedback and offered a relatively balanced frequency spectrum and a nice sustain, which was the ideal sound of many jazz guitarists. A Gibson L5 played through a LAB or a Polytone is completely convincing – even today.
One disadvantage that the transistor amps had in particularly was its dynamic behaviour, in their relatively poor response and in their tendency to not let the individual character of a particular guitar fully unfold. You could also say: Transistor amps tend to standardise tone.
I do not wish to start a discussion about tube versus transistor because transistor amplifiers will continue to play a rightful role in jazz. It is more about ways to show how one can get the typical warm jazz tone with a tube amp without all the disadvantages.
Above all I am thinking of the sounds of the early sixties, which were marked by numerous jazz guitarists including: Wes Montgomery, Kenny Burrell, the early George Benson, Herb Ellis, Joe Pass, Barney Kessel, Grant Green and Jim Hall. All of these guitarists were playing tube amps on their early recordings and getting fantastic sounds. Today tube amps are celebrating a renaissance with jazz guitarists.
Let us first take look at the most popular models from the distant past. In the fifties the combos from Fender (Tweed), Gibson, Standel or Flot-A-Tone were especially loved by jazz musicians due to their sound and their small size. These amplifiers were sufficient for jazz guitarists because they were usually accompanying musicians and they performed as a soloist only in rare cases. They often stayed in the background and did not play very loud.
Even back then, most jazz guitars were equipped with a tone control that made it possible to filter out unwanted peaks and thus to form the typical dark jazz sound. But soon the guitar became a solo instrument. Just think of the impressive sound of a cascading Les Paul, who at that time had good reason to play on a solid body. The traditional jazz players remained with their hollow bodies and now had to fight against all the disadvantages of the electrification of their sounds. Recently I read in a retrospective of Wes Montgomery that he alleged that during his entire career he was unhappy with his sound because he simply could not find the perfect amp. One might even go so far and assume that the dark jazz sound is actually created only (and eventually cultivated) because the amount of unpleasant highs tube amplifiers have, are rather imperfect sounding and also quickly led to feedback. Most guitarists wanted more of a linear and natural reproduction of their beautiful instruments that already sounded great acoustically.
Let’s now take a look in the interior of a tube amp and consider certain circuit characteristics which can be modified for a better jazz tone. The objectives of these measures are the reduction of distortion and the high frequencies, improving the mid-range and increasing the linearity of the sound.
First, a list of known suitable amplifiers for conversion to a “jazz box”: Fender Tweed Fender amps from 1956 and Brownface, Blackface and Silverface combos. Examples from this list shall be explored in following issues.
Let’s start with a Tweed Deluxe amp replica from Cream which I have converted for jazz sounds. These amps are known for their distortion when left stock and therefore not ideal for a clear jazz tone. But they are very small and handy and with around 15 watts of power ideal for use in a club. In addition, these amplifiers are connected with a so-called “split-load” phase inverter which is appropriate for our purposes because of its low gain. The only drawback is the two coupled volume pots, which restrict the volume control range on the one hand and deliver too much gain in the preamp. The aim is to reduce the gain in the preamp and increase the output power and stability of the amplifier. Only then we get enough headroom for a clear sound.
Just this once, I should like to “put the cart before the horse” because there are a number of measures to improve the amp without intervention on the circuit.
First, these amplifiers usually have an inefficient speaker. Powerful speakers with a good efficiency rating are especially suitable for jazz sounds. Those who love the Alnico sound can search out an old JBL D-120 and replace the aluminum dust cap with a counterpart out of fabric (available from Weber VST). The speaker can be helped dramatically in the highs and we get a warmer, rounder tone. Excellent was also the old Fane Crescendo Heavy-duty speaker, which is also suitable after the removal of the aluminum dome making a perfectly clear and powerful sound. These speakers were also used by David Gilmour. Another excellent choice is also an Electro-Voice 12L or a Jensen C12K with 100 watts. All these speakers better the sound of the Tweed Deluxe significantly. You only have to watch out for the thin baffle-board because vibration during transport could for example pull heavy speakers from the screw holes.
A further stabilizing method is the conversion of the power tubes to 6L6 or 5881, which I recommended at this point several times. Although the amp has only about one or two watts more output, the increase in headroom is very clear. You get more clean reserves and dynamics. Here I recommend changing the cathode resistor of the amplifier from 250 (typically with 5 watts) to 330 ohms with 10 watts. If you play a jazz guitar with humbuckers, we recommend the low input of the normal channels. Here there are less highs and the output signal of the guitar is more attenuated. It should be noted that the volume pots affect each other on the Tweed Deluxe. By turning the unused channel by not more than 70 percent, the tone is much cleaner, but also quieter.
If you don’t wish to utilize this trick, you can simply remove the cathode of the second stage capacitor (Elko 25mF/25 volts) and reduce the gain of this stage substantially, which in turn increases headroom. The amp will be clearer and somewhat linear, but also a touch softer.
Even more clear sound can be obtained by replacing the output transformer. Something I always do in such tuning. In this case I choose a Mercury Magnetics Tweed Pro Axiom FTPRO-O transformer (available at Tonehenge Amplification) with 8 ohms, which gives much more stability to a small tweed amp.
If you want to use the amp only for jazz, you can also decouple the two volume controls from each other and only one channel and a tone control remain. Now you can adjust the volume much finer and linear. The circuit can be found at www.schematicheaven.com under Fender Deluxe 6G3. Here the channels are completely separate, each with their own volume and tone control. It’s only after the volume knobs on the channels that two 220k ohm mixing resistors are mixed together again.
Since the Tweed Deluxe played with humbuckers has in general somewhat bassy sounds, I also reduce the value of the coupling capacitors from 0.1mF to 0022mF. This makes the sound tighter and more mids. Sprague “Orange Drop” P715-type fit perfectly here.
Finally we get to fine-tuning via preamp tube placement. With a good 12AY7 and a 12AX7 of your choice, you can continue to shape your favourite tone. For those of you who have not had enough, you can play with the value of the capacitor on the tone-pot. The Deluxe was originally installed with a 0005 UF capacitor but also possible are values such as 0.01mF or 0.02mF (as in the 6G3) for a slightly warmer tone. If you want to darken the sound one can bridge one of the anode resistors at the 12AY7 with a 0.003mF capacitor (as in the normal channel of the Brown Vibrolux).
The result is a truly compelling jazz amp for small clubs, feeds back less, offers more clean reserves and could compete with any Polytone but all the benefits of dynamic and harmonically rich tube sound can be enjoyed. Diana Krall’s guitarist Anthony Wilson often used a Tweed Deluxe replica from Clark and his blond Gibson Byrdland in the studio. This sound is very reminiscent of Kenny Burrell and offers a wonderfully unique character. Have fun experimenting!
If you want to nail Clapton’s tone, a crucial part of the equation is the amplifier. With a little ingenuity, John Wiley shows you how to turn your reissue Bluesbreaker combo into the real deal.
A unique distinction of early Marshall amplifiers is that none of them within the same model line sound exactly alike. Partly attributable to founder Jim Marshall’s penchant for working with budding British musicians and working many of their suggestions into his designs, and partly due to the difficulties of locating reliable parts suppliers, Marshall’s early designs each had their own personality. For instance, Marshall’s Model 1962 combo was, itself, an ordinary amplifier; however, one particular Model 1962 used by Eric Clapton with John Mayall and the Bluesbreakers had such a revolutionary tone that it created a new sound in the still-young world of rock n’ roll.
In 1965, Clapton found himself the featured guitarist in John Mayall and the Bluesbreakers. Armed with a 1960 Gibson Les Paul and the Marshall Model 1962 combo amplifier, he single-handedly discovered a combination of guitar and amp that produced an extraordinary howl — Clapton achieved his trademark sound by playing the amplifier at full volume. The sound was full-bodied, authoritative, but not overly distorted; it easily cut through the other band instruments. The sustain was pure, the treble notes sang and the bass registers exhibited a “throaty” bottom. At such high volumes, the amp was prone to feeding back, and this provided an awesome effect to the overall sound.
This image, from the Beano LP, shows Clapton tuning up, with his Model 1962 in the background.
The blistering tone was captured on vinyl and released to an unwitting public as John Mayall and the Bluesbreakers with Eric Clapton; also known as the “Beano” album, it quickly shot to number six on the British charts, even amongst the din of other popular British and American pop groups such as the Beatles, the Animals, the Rolling Stones and the Beach Boys. That LP’s impact soon spread to America and abroad, inspiring legions of new guitarists around the world — especially influencing musical rebels in the United States. Clapton’s playing style, combined with a ferocious amplified tone, seemed to inject a new and exciting dimension into the young blues-rock genre. But none of this could have happened without the small British amp company, Vox. Models like the AC30 would provide the “British Invasion” with its unique sound, and convinced Marshall to build a compact amplifier for his new company; the initial development of Marshall’s first combo took place in early 1964. In a 2003 interview with Musician’s Hotline magazine, he claimed the Model 1962 was built at the request of Eric Clapton. “Eric used to practice in my shop and he was one of the first guitarists to ask me to build a combo,” Marshall recalled. “He wanted one so it would be easy for him to put the whole thing in the boot [trunk] of his car.”
Unfortunately, that Model 1962 disappeared, with Clapton himself unsure of what became of it; years later, it would become known as the holy grail of combos. Although those early combos had great tone, no two sound exactly the same. Two decades later, the Marshall reissue would sound nothing like it at all.
The Reissue
For many of us, the year 1990 brought an answer to one of our greatest wishes: the Marshall Model 1962 2×12 combo was finally reissued. The idea had apparently been in the works for quite some time, as evidenced by this author’s correspondence to a Marshall factory director, Keith Carnall in the late months of 1984. Carnall’s reply stated, “We have thought many times about running a ‘vintage special,’ with valve rectification and all the other old goodies… let us just say for now that it is an idea that we will continue to work around and perhaps you will get your wish granted.” Although Clapton was not aware of the amp being reissued, Marshall christened it the “Bluesbreaker,” in his honor. When asked in a 1989 Guitar World interview he replied, “Did they really? How sweet. I didn’t even know that. How does it sound?” Marshall simultaneously introduced the Bluesbreaker and the JTM45 in 1990, along with the new JCM900 series.
At a cursory first glance, Marshall did an outstanding job recreating the Bluesbreaker, as it externally resembled the original with the distinctive and elegant Marshall styling. Just like the original, it was rated at 45 watts and came with two Celestion speakers. The cabinet dimensions measured 29.13″ wide by 23.62″ high by 9.25″ deep, and black vintage Tolex coupled with a vintage-style Bluesbreaker grill cloth completed the package. Electronically, the 1989 reissue used two 6L6 vacuum tubes for power, three ECC83 (12AX7) preamp tubes and one GZ34 rectifier tube. In 1993, Marshall replaced the 6L6s with 5881 vacuum tubes. Tonally, the Bluesbreaker reissue had a unique and fine sound of its own. It produced varying degrees of that buttery smooth sustain, while retaining that traditional Marshall crunch.
The following is a listing of the basic differences between the original Model 1962 and the Model 1962 “Bluesbreaker,” as reissued in 1990:
|
But just how close was this new variant to the original Model 1962? To the true Marshall collector, and to the rare few who actually owned the genuine article, the differences were immediately apparent. In Michael Doyle’s book, The History of Marshall, he pointed out that the cabinet was too small and the grill cloth was not right. But the major disappointment was not in the appearance, but the sound the amplifier produced. While the sound was good and had plenty of Marshall crunch, it was definitely not the sound of the original. And for that reason, I began a quest to change the sound of my reissue into something more closely resembling the original.
Hitting the streets in 1990, the Model 1962 “Bluesbreaker” reissue was plagued with discrepancies out of the box. The cabinet was undersized by some 30 percent, with a depth barely over 9″, while the original measured in at 10.5″. The reissue’s overall width was almost 30″, while the original was 32″. The most reasonable explanation for these differences would come from the use of output tubes originally selected for the Model 1962. Although the very first combos incorporated the smaller 5881 vacuum tube, Marshall designed the Model 1962 for the more prevalent but enormous Coke bottle-shaped KT66 vacuum tube. The usage of this particular tube necessitated the deeper 10.5″ cabinet.
Likewise, the cabinet’s construction differed significantly from original specs. The Model 1962 Series I was built using pine planks for the cabinet with multi-ply birch baffles; the Model 1962 Series II was completely constructed with multi-ply birch plywood (more about these series differences in a moment). The reissue used particle board for the cabinet and plywood baffles.
Finally, the speakers supplied in the original combo were G12M “Greenbacks,” rated at 20 watts each. This speaker utilized an Alnico magnet, providing sweet, warm tones and a smooth midrange — an essential ingredient for that “British chime.” At 20 watts, the speaker could barely keep up with the tremendous overdrive of the amplifier when it was at full volume. Marshall, however, equipped the Bluesbreaker reissue with 25-watt Greenbacks, featuring ceramic magnets. While they lacked the chime of an Alnico magnet, they could withstand twice the wattage and had a fine sound of their own.
The Model 1962 Back Story
However, before we dig in and modify our reissue Bluesbreaker, it would behoove us to understand where it all started. In 1964, while the Beatles made their first appearance on the Ed Sullivan Show, and the Civil Rights Act of 1964 was enacted, Marshall was busy introducing its very first combo. Because it was the very first series, it is historically referred to as the Model 1962 Series I. Interestingly, the 1962’s model number did not refer to a particular year or significant event in time. Until the 1980s, Marshall’s distributor and financial backer Rose-Morris used these numbers arbitrarily, using the prefix “19” for all of Marshall’s product line.
Jim Marshall wanted his new range of combos to be versatile; as a result, he designed the Model 1962 with two 12″ loudspeakers and used the JTM45 bass chassis (Model 1986) electronics. The Model 1962 was described in the Marshall catalogue as a “Bass/Lead” unit, making it an extremely versatile amplifier that could be used by guitarists and bass players alike.
But just how close was this new variant to the original Model 1962? To the true Marshall collector, and to the rare few who actually owned the genuine article, the differences were immediately apparent.
In addition, a second combo with four 10″ speakers — the same configuration used in the Fender Bassman — was offered to players. Marshall’s 4×10 version was referred to as the “Lead” and utilized the JTM45 treble chassis (Model 1987) electronics. This 4×10 configuration, designated the Model 1961, was designed for guitar use only. Both Model 1962 and 1961 were purposely marketed as the British equivalent to the vastly popular Fender Bassman, and they offered quite a bargain for British and European musicians. The Model 1961 retailed for a scant $165 American dollars and the Model 1962 retailed for $170, while the Fender Bassman was nearly double at $300. Both models went into production in late 1964.
Cabinet and Construction
The cabinet dimensions for the Model 1962 (2×12 configuration) were 30″ wide by 24″ high by 12″ deep. The 1961, incorporating four 10″ speakers, maintained square proportions, measuring 28″ wide by 28″ tall and 11″ deep. The Model 1962’s width is 2″ wider and 1″ deeper than the 1961’s to accommodate the dual 12″ speakers.
Marshall amplifiers would also gain a reputation for their ruggedness. Marine ply birch was used for cabinet construction, as the laminated layers of glued veneer plywood provided greater overall strength than a singular plank of yellow pine, which was the wood of choice for Fender amplifiers. These early Marshalls did not use the “finger-lock” joints that would become standard on all Marshall cabinets a few years later.
The Marshall ads above suggested the reissues matched the originals; in reality, there were significant differences.
Marshall cabinets were also visually appealing and had the look of richly appointed furniture. Black PVC (polyvinyl chloride) material, similar to the General Tire invention known as “Tolex,” was used for the entire exterior of the cabinet. This smooth, black fabric was different from the black “Levant” Tolex Marshall would use later.
Accenting the cabinets was Marshall’s elegant grill cloth. The company’s catalogue referred to this early cloth only as, “contrasting speaker grills,” not actually describing the color or pattern of the cloth material. However, it was known as the “white” grill cloth and had thin, horizontal gray lines running through it. Also included on the earliest models were three leather straps, attached to the top of the cabinet and similar to the Vox AC30. These amplifiers weighed in at a very heavy 70 pounds, and the sheer weight meant that it wasn’t long before the leather straps would stretch and break. In early 1965, an improved, single plastic strap which was stronger and larger in size replaced the leather ones.
The very first Marshall combos produced in late 1964 used what was known as “Vox-style” cooling vents, which allowed the heat produced by the transformers and vacuum tubes to escape efficiently. Two vents were installed into the top of the cabinet, similar to the Vox AC30. The vents were rectangular in shape and had a metal screen riveted inside.
Chassis Electronics and Components
The internal chassis that included all the electrical components was made of 6061 aluminum sheet metal. Aluminum has excellent non-sparking and non-magnetic characteristics, making it ideal for electrical shielding purposes and chassis use. It is, however, not as strong as steel and would fatigue and sag under the weight of the heavy power and output transformers. To remedy this, cast aluminum end blocks were riveted inside each end of the chassis to add strength and rigidity. The chassis were 2.5″ deep and purchased from a sub-contractor named Smiths.
The JTM45 used one circuit board screwed inside the aluminum chassis, providing a central platform for the various electrical components. Prior to 1965, Marshall used Tufnell perforated circuit boards; from 1965 to 1967 a subcontractor called Heathfield manufactured the circuit boards, which can be recognized by the drilled holes on the solid sheets.
The output transformer was officially known by Marshall as the “RS De Luxe.” It was light gray in color, with horseshoe end bells. The maximum output rating was only 30 watts, and all three transformers used on the JTM45 — the output, power and choke — were purchased from Radiospares, an electrical component clearing house.
The first combos produced in late 1964 were equipped with two GEC (General Electric Co.) KT66 vacuum tubes. The original design of the JTM45 called for the Tung-Sol 5881 tube; because this tube was used in the Fender Bassman, it was the tube of choice. However, supplies for the 5881 were scarce and the KT66 was used as a replacement. The KT66 provided more bite and distortion, suiting the JTM45 perfectly, and unlike the EL34, it was not overly saturated and did not sound mushy. The KT66’s bottom end was solid and exhibited clarity, while the trebles were almost “violinlike” in nature and very smooth. Much like the Fender Bassman, the JTM45 became known for its unique sound, primarily because of this tube.
Four 12AX7 (designated the ECC83 in Europe) preamp tubes were supplied in the 1961 and 1962, and both featured a tremolo circuit as a standard appointment. These amps also included tube rectification, which added to the sound’s overall smoothness. The 5AR4 rectifier tube (designated the GZ34 in Europe) was used on all JTM45 configurations, including models 1961 and 1962, and was the same rectifier used in the Fender Bassman and many other classic American amplifiers.
The JTM45 also incorporated two “can” style filter capacitors; the number of capacitors used, and their respective value, was a significant factor in the overall sound of the amplifier. One LCR Co. 32ìf x 32ìf at 450 volts was mounted on top of chassis near the power transformer, and one LCR Co. 16ìf x 16ìf at 450 volts was mounted inside the chassis just beneath the power transformer — the standard arrangement for the JTM45.
KT66 tubes as were used in Clapton’s Model 1962.
Speakers & Logo
The Model 1961 would utilize four 10″ Celestion Alnico speakers, while the Model 1962 would use two 12″ Celestion G12 speakers, handling 15 watts and featuring an Alnico magnet. The Alnico magnet contributed to the amp’s unique and sparkling sound, referred to as the “British chime.” A basic style of logo badge was used on these very first combos, and is commonly referred to as the “gold block logo.” The badge was rectangular in shape and was very simple, having only the Marshall name in bold block letters. The letters were black in color on a background of gold, although silver was sometimes used.
The Clapton-Spec Combo — One of a Kind?
The particular Model 1962 amplifier that Eric Clapton used with John Mayall and the Bluesbreakers was unfortunately lost, without knowing its exact pedigree. It was definitely an early edition of the Series II combo and was built during a continuous procession of production changes and revisions. The typical production run of any of the Marshall line could have differing components from amp to amp — it is not an exaggeration to say no two amps were exactly alike. This was primarily due to the inconsistent component suppliers Marshall used at the time, and partly because booming business made record keeping (serial numbers, production quantities, etc.) a low priority — existing serial numbers are not reliable or even logical, and production numbers are at best derived from employee recollections. Therefore, determining just how many amps were built exactly like Clapton’s is extremely difficult. The following list of features, derived from exhaustive research, best represents the Clapton’s combo specs. This particular amp is pictured on the reverse side of the “Beano” LP. The Series II cabinet was designed by Marshall’s chief designer Ken Bran, and incorporated a more modernistic styling. Its dimensions were 32″ wide by 23″ high by 10.5″ deep. The cabinet was sturdy and constructed of 3/4″ marine ply, incorporating one slot-style cooling vent and covered with black Lavent vinyl. The grill cloth was the classic gray and white striped variety later known as “Bluesbreaker” grill cloth. The cabinet was smartly accented with gold hardware attachments for the cabinet handle.
Chassis Electronics and Components
Clapton’s amplifier utilized the JTM45 bass guitar amplifier electronics known as the Model 1986 and the same chassis used in the Series I, made of 6061 aluminum sheet. One circuit board screwed inside the aluminum chassis was used and it was manufactured by the Heathfield Company.
Mounted on top of the chassis was the heart of the amplifier — the transformer. The defacto JTM45 output transformer was the “RS De Luxe;” however, since it was rated at only 30 watts, it was not ideal. Clapton’s amp may have utilized the newly acquired Drake Companytransformers. The output transformer would have been Model #784-103, with an 8K primary Z, and the power transformer would have been Model #1202-55. Utilizing the Drake transformers would explain why Clapton’s combo did not sound like a “typical” JTM45amplifier.
Clapton’s amplifier utilized two GEC KT66 output vacuum tubes. The preamp circuit included four Mullard ECC83 tubes, with one dedicated to the tremolo circuit. The Mullard GZ34 rectifier tube was again used. Two can-type filter capacitors were used: one LCR 32ìf x 32ìf at 600 volts mounted on top of the chassis near the output transformer, and a second LCR 16ìf x 16ìf at 450 volts mounted inside the chassis.
Speakers
The amp’s speakers consisted of two 12″ Celestion G12s, rated at 20 watts, 15 ohms, and with an Alnico magnet. These speakers were essentially the same as those used in Vox AC30s, and are extremely fragile when pushed beyond their limit. Because Clapton ran the amplifier at full volume, the Alnicos may have been damaged. He may have replaced them with the higher wattage, ceramic magnet Celestion Greenbacks.
The Model 1962 reissue schematic.
The Objective: Convert a Reissue to Clapton-Spec
I started my investigation into obtaining this sound over 20 years ago. In addition to the “Beano” studio CD, there were other John Mayall albums that included “live” cuts from Eric Clapton’s time with the Bluesbreakers. Although these recordings were done with crude equipment, they captured the raw and unrestrained sound of Clapton’s guitar and amplifier. To my ears, these recordings were most realistic, as they lacked any studio treatment. I quickly knew what sound I was after.
In 1994, Mike Doyle’s book, The History of Marshall, was released and included an eye-opening chapter on the Bluesbreaker. That chapter confirmed the reissue’s lack of authentic sound, and it became obvious that in the amp’s conversion to Clapton specs the only salvageable pieces would be the electrical chassis, the control panel and some of the cabinet hardware — the cabinet and speakers would have to be replaced.
With that, I decided to do the conversion in a logical progression and planned to document the progress. I preferred a progressive approach, as it would give me a chance to analyze each change made separately. In addition, since this conversion would be fairly expensive, it would be easier on the budget to purchase items over a period of time. The changes required could be grouped into three categories:
I should note that it is possible to make deeper changes, such as replacement of the circuit board, resistors, potentiometers and components, plastic tube sockets, and rewiring of the chassis to original specifications. These additions will make the electronics of the amplifier more authentic, but will not noticeably improve the sound. These additions also significantly increase the cost and add more time to the project.
The steps I have outlined above will reproduce the amplifier tone as heard on the live cuts of Clapton with the Bluesbreakers, as well as the “Beano” record. In fact, after making these changes, your Bluesbreaker will no longer be a mere reissue — it will sound like the real thing!
The new cabinet is over 2″ bigger than the reissue cabinet, resulting in a fuller sound.
Step 1: A Bigger Cabinet
There are now several competent amplifier cabinet makers building exact replicas of the Model 1962 Series I and II cabinets. Be sure these makers use the required multi-ply Baltic birch plywood, correct black Tolex covering, vintage gold veining and the surrounding white piping. It is also wise to have them confirm the correct cabinet dimensions, as the Series I and II are two completely different cabinets. To save some money, you could use the Marshall logo, casters and other hardware from your existing reissue. Two excellent cabinet makers available on the internet are Vibroworld.com and Swansoncabinets.com.
For the first phase, I ordered a new cabinet from a cabinet maker on the internet — to ensure accuracy, I supplied them with a CAD drawing of the Series II dimensions and features. I was very pleased with the results I received a few weeks later. I removed the chassis and speakers from my Marshall reissue and reinstalled them in the new cabinet. Even though the new cabinet included pre-drilled holes and Tnuts for the speakers, it still took some time to make this switch. While switching cabinets, be careful to ensure the speaker and amplifier connections are right.
For testing, I used a Gibson Les Paul Heritage 80 model. After re-checking the chassis and cabinet connections, I turned on the amplifier, and let it warm up. I started at low volumes and progressively turned up the volume to 10, all while keeping the other settings such as presence, bass, middle and treble at 10. Upon hearing the first chords, I was immediately struck by a new “openness.” The amplifier seemed to breathe and had a new, airy sound to it — it did not sound as tight as the smaller reissue cabinet. With 30 percent more space in the cabinet than the reissue, the trebles seemed revived and the amp now had an “airy” bottom-end. Comparative testing with another stock Bluesbreaker reissue verified the tonal improvements.
An interesting side note; in 1997, Marshall produced a limited edition white Bluesbreaker called the “Limited Edition 1997.” It was basically was the same amplifier as the 1989 reissue, with one important difference: the limited edition’s cabinet incorporated the deeper 10.5″ thickness, as can be found in the original Model 1962 Series II.
Step 2: The Electronics
Before digging into the guts of the Bluesbreaker, a word of caution: this phase deals with potentially dangerous electrical voltages and it is highly recommended that only a trained and competent amplifier repair person or skilled electrician perform these tasks.
This phase involves swapping out the reissue transformer, changing the 6L6 vacuum tubes to KT66s, and replacing the filter capacitors.
The Transformers and Tubes
There are now some good vintage transformer manufacturers around, so one has a choice in the matter. Since the original Model 1962 used a Radiospares (RS Deluxe) transformer, the objective here is to get one like it. When I did my conversion, I purchased a Mercury Magnetics Model O45RSL-8-M(MercuryMagnetics.com).
When it comes to power tubes, the only one to use here is the revered KT66. There are however, a few brand options available. One could either purchase a matched set (two are needed) of original GECs, or purchase a pair from companies offering reissue KT66s. The European and American tubes manufactured in the 1950s and 60s (new old stock) are superior in tone, quality and reliability. Tubes now manufactured in Russia and China such as Groove Tubes, the new Tung-Sol, and JJ/Tesla offer comparable tone and are reasonably priced. Since these tubes are made overseas, it is difficult to isolate a superior brand, and although tonal quality is improving with better consistency, tone remains an individual choice. For my conversion I used a matched set of Chinese Valve Art tubes, and was not disappointed.
Since we are changing out the power tubes, it is highly recommended to replace the 12AX7 (ECC83) preamp tubes as well. Again, there are several good options here which include SED Winged “C,” Electro-Harmonix and Ei/Ei-Elites. Replacing the GZ34 (5AR4) rectifier tube is also a must for optimum performance. The same tube suppliers listed above carry the GZ34, in varieties like Sino, Sovtek, or the very expensive Phillips metal base.
Filter Capacitors
Replacing the big can-style filter capacitors will definitely give your reissue more clarity. Filter capacitors are rated in the ZZxZZ format. The reissue Bluesbreaker has two 50×50ìF capacitors which must be replaced. The blue 50×50ìF filter capacitor, located closest to the GZ34 rectifier tube should be replaced with a 32×32ìF/600V capacitor. The other 50×50ìF gets replaced with a 16×16ìF/450V capacitor. JJ and F&T are two good options for filter capacitors.
Caution: These changes should only be done by a good amplifier repairperson. Also remember to have your KT66 vacuum tubes rebiased. I had renowned Bluesbreaker guru Ted Breaux finalize and tune my Bluesbreaker electronics.
Before using the amp at full volume, a suitable warm-up for the newly installed electronics should be done by simply powering up the amp and leaving it on Standby for a good hour or so. While it’s warming up, pay close attention to any unusual odors or burning, as a bad solder joint or incorrect wiring could cause a short circuit.
Once the amp has warmed up, with no guitar plugged in set the Presence, Bass, Middle and Treble controls to 10. Then start increasing the volume of Input 1 slowly, listening for any peculiar pops or sizzling noises in the process. If you don’t hear or notice anything unusual, you should be set to go.
For the “sound” test I used the same Gibson Les Paul Heritage 80; for the tonal comparison, I used the Primal Solos CD, starting with the solo in “It Hurts to Be In Love.” Before cranking the amp to 10, I employed the same gradual progression of low volume checks, listening for any unusual noises and so on. When I got to 10, I was astounded!
I was able to produce the same overtones and harmonics as the recording.
Likewise, the treble response was spectacular. I had read that Clapton used a Rangemaster treble booster with his amp, but I was getting the “sound” without one. The F9 chord in “Have You Ever Loved a Woman” shimmered and went into harmonic overload, exactly like the recording. The only notable difference was in the bass registers, as it seemed harsh at times and slightly lacking in tightness — additionally, some of the treble response seemed a little harsh. But I was definitely hearing 95 percent of that Clapton-spec sound, as no EL34 or 6L6 had ever sounded like this. It was now time for a speaker change.
The cabinet after installing the Weber Blue Dogs.
Step 3: The Speakers
I narrowed my choice of Alnico speakers down to the Celestion G12 Alnico Blues and the Weber P12B Blue Dogs. The Celestions were rated at 15 watts while the Webers were rated at 30 watts — I decided to try the higher-wattage Weber P12B. After swapping out the reissue Greenbacks for the new Blue Dogs, I played the amp at lower volumes for several hours. At these levels (5-6), I was pleasantly introduced to the British chime of the 1960s. Early Beatles rhythm and lead guitar sounds were easily obtainable, particularly within the mid and bass ranges.
I then tried the full throttle test. At full volume, I was in for quite a shock — the mid and bass ranges nearly cut me off at the knees. The treble side was knife-edge harsh and the amp was monstrously louder. I was obviously disappointed, as none of this remotely sounded like a Bluesbreaker. I had read that Alnico speakers may require an extended “break-in” period, and I hoped that was the case here.
I removed the Blue Dogs from the Bluesbreaker cabinet and reinstalled them into a 2×12 cabinet I was using for weekend gigs. After a few weekends of extended playing, I noticed the sound changing, as I was having to re-adjust my amp head settings. After a few more weekends, I definitely noticed something happening. It was now time to re-install the Blue Dogs back into the Bluesbreaker cabinet.
Upon trying it again, something magical happened to the overall sound of the amplifier. Right there in my basement, and out of my rebuilt Bluesbreaker, came the sound. I was flabbergasted, as it sounded incredible. I must have played the amp all night. I was nailing all of Clapton’s Bluesbreaker riffs, and they sounded identical to recordings. The A minor solo break in “All Your Love” sounded amazing, and like the recording, it was drenched in sustain and overtones. “Stormy Monday” from Looking Back was spot on.
Finally, my Bluesbreaker renovation was complete. The amp sounded just like it should, some 40 years ago. Doing this yourself makes all the difference, as you become a part of the equation — with a little work and dedication, you can experience Marshall just as Clapton discovered it.
Source: https://mercurymagnetics.com/pages/news/PremierGuitar/PremierG-08.htm
We always maintain a steady flow of gear arriving for review, but sometimes we also employ a fascinating if time-consuming research strategy that involves logging onto eBay, picking a broad category such as “guitar amplifiers,” and settling in for as long as it takes to patiently scroll through every page of listings. Yeah, that’s often 50 pages or more, but since we can’t possibly think of all the items that might interest us and search for them by name, it’s far more revealing and productive to just hunker down and scroll. Rarely do we fail to find something intriguing that would have otherwise been missed, and such was the case on a morning in August when we stumbled on a listing for a 1959 tweed Deluxe. Were we looking for a tweed Deluxe? Nope. Wouldn’t have crossed our mind at the time…. We had already reviewed 5E3 reproductions from Fender, Clark and Louis Electric within the past 3 years, and we have frequently referenced our 1958 Tremolux as being our desert island #1. Isn’t a Tremolux just a tweed Deluxe with tremolo in a bigger box? No… not even close. That would be like saying you wanted to date a blonde – any blonde. For the record, our fixed bias Tremolux possesses a cleaner tone with a bigger, booming voice created by the taller Pro cabinet. The Two Fifty Nine is a completely different animal….
Sporting a February 1959 date code on the tube chart, the ’59 had been listed by a seller in Arkansas who turned out to be Tut Campbell, formerly a well-known guitar dealer in Atlanta. Still buying and selling gear, Campbell had described the Deluxe as being in original condition with the exception of a replace output transformer – a big old mono block Stancor dating to 1957. Given the otherwise original condition of the Deluxe, which included the Jensen P12R, we made Campbell a “best off” below his asking price and scored the amp for $1,850 shipped. We wouldn’t say we stole the Deluxe, but it seemed a fair price of admission for the opportunity to experience and explore still another rare classic and supremely worthy piece of Fender history on your behalf.
The Deluxe arrived with the big Stancor dangling from the chassis despite Campbell’s careful packaging. Wasn’t his fault, really – in a feeble effort to avoid any additional holes being drilled in the chassis, the fellow who installed the Stancor in the ’60s had merely tightened set screws over the small tabs at the base of the heavy tranny, which was designed to be mounted upright – not hanging upside down in a guitar amplifier. Of more concern was the fact that while the amp was lighting up, there was no sound…. Well, we’ve been here before, so we made a call to God’s Country and the Columbus, Indiana domicile of Terry Dobbs – Mr. Valco to you. We had already set aside a spare output transformer (Lenco, McHenry, IL) that had been the original replacement installed in our ’58 Tremolux when we first received it, replaced with a Mercury Magneticsfor our June ’07 review article. Mr. Valco cheerfully answered his phone and as we explained the situation with the Deluxe he agreed to walk us through the installation of the new replacement – a simple process involving four lead wires being connected to the rectifier and output tube sockets, and the speaker jack. As long as you put the correct wires in the right place, a piece of cake, and we had the new tranny in within 10 minutes. Pilot lamp and all tubes glowing, still no sound…. Valco patiently guided us through a series of diagnostics with the multi-meter and the Deluxe was running on all cylinders, pumping 380 volts. Stumped, and with the hour growing late, we called it a day. Leaving the mysteriously neutered Deluxe chassis on the bench until tomorrow.
Morning came with a whining voice delivering a plaintive wake up call – “It’s got to be something stupid and simple….” Inspired by a huge steaming mug of Jamaican High Mountain meth, we sat back down at the bench, tilted the innards of the Deluxe chassis forward beneath a bright halogen desk lamp and peered in for answers. We began slowly examining the chassis in sections, looking for broken or dull solder joints, loose or broken wires, while gently pushing and prodding wires and connections with the eraser tip of a #2 pencil as we had seen Jeff Bakos do so often at his bench. After ten minutes or so we were about to give up, when we turned our attention to several places where the circuit was grounded to the chassis adjacent to the volume and tone pots, and damned if a solder joint for one of the uninsulated ground wires hadn’t separated from the chassis. No ground, no sound, and as soon as we had restored the solder joint the Two Fifty Nine arose from the dead with a mighty A major roar.
The amp was indeed remarkably well-preserved in all respects, with the typical amber patina of old tweed. The burnished chrome control panel remained bright and clean with no corrosion, the original handle remained intact, and a couple of small ciggie burns on the edge of the cabinet added a stamp of historic legitimacy to the Deluxe’s pedigree. The top half of the Jensen’s frame was coated in a fine film of red clay dust from the Delta, and while the cone was in remarkably good shape with no tears, an audible voice coil rub called for a recone. We would send the speaker to Tom Colvin’s Speaker Workshop in Ft. Wayne, Indiana, requesting that he leave the original unbroken solder joints for the speaker wires intact if possible.
Meanwhile the first order of business was to listen to an assortment of NOS tubes from our stash, and audition no less than a half dozen speakers. Different sets of power tubes and individual preamp tubes will sound surprisingly different, so we started out with a matched pair of NOS RCA 6V6s, a GE 5Y3 rectifier, and an RCA 12AX7 and 12AY7. From there we subbed in a dozen different RCA, Amperex, Tesla and GE 12AX7s, noting varying levels of brightness, warmth and intensity among them all. For an edgier, more aggressive voice, the GEs and Amperex typically deliver the goods, while RCAs produce a slightly warmer, richer, fuller tone. We also experimented with a 12AT7 and 12AX7 in place of the lower gain 12AY7, and while those tubes ramp up gain and distortion faster and with more intensity than the 12AY7, they seemed like overkill for us. Our Deluxe possesses a tone of gain using the stock 12AY7.
Rather than repeatedly reloading the Deluxe with different speakers, we used a Bob Burt 1×12 cabinet built from 100-year-old pine for our speaker tests. The original Jensen had never been pulled from our amp, but multiple speaker replacements in an old Fender inevitably cause the speaker mounting screws to loosen in the baffleboard, making speaker swaps unnecessarily clumsy and complicated. When we do run into loose mounting screws, we simply run a few small drops of Super Glue around the base of the screw and surrounding wood. Allow to dry and your screws will stay put provided that you don’t torque the nuts on the mounting screws like an idiot with a socket wrench. Don’t be that guy,
We tested a range of speakers that included a Celestion G12H 70thAnniversary, Colvin-reconed ’64 Jensen C12N, Eminence Wizard, Private Jack, Alnico Red Fang, Teas Heat, Screaming Eagle, Red, White & Blues, and Warehouse Green Beret, Veteran 30, Alnico Blackhawk and Alnico Black & Blue. The Alnico speakers generally produce a tighter, smoother, slightly more compressed tone, with a variable emphasis on upper mid-range and treble frequencies, while the speakers with ceramic magnets possess a wider, more open sound. Higher power ratings of 75W-100W offered by the Red, White & Blues, Screaming Eagle and Warehouse Blackhawk typically translate into more graceful handling of bass frequencies, and in a 20 watt Deluxe, zero speaker distortion, for a clean, powerful voice.
Let’s cut to the chase with speaker evaluations, shall we? It has become clear to us that even after reviewing a dozen speakers in as much detail as mere words allow in a single article, many of you remain uncertain about which speaker to choose. No kidding. We would absolutely love to hand you a single magic bullet when it comes to speaker swaps, but here’s the dirty little secret about choosing speakers…. The overall character of the amp you will be installing your new speaker in is critical, and to some extent, the type of guitars and pickups you play most often are important, too. Tailoring your sound with the unique gear you play is not a one-size fits-all proposition – you have to invest some thought into the process. Are you going for a classic “scooped” American Fendery tone, or something more British, with a bit of an aggressive edge and upper midrange voice? Are you playing guitars with single coil pickups or humbuckers? Is there a specific, signature tone you are searching for, or are you playing a wide variety of musical styles that requires a broader range of tones? Do you like the more open sound of speakers with ceramic magnets, or the smoother compression of Alnico? What are you not hearing from your amp and the speaker that’s in it now? Do you want a brighter tone, darker, better bass response, or fuller, more prominent mids? Do you want to really drive the speaker and hear it contributing to the overdriven sound of your amp, or do you want a big, clean tone with no speaker distortion in the mix? The truth is, if you don’t know what you want, you are far less likely to get it. On the other hand, nothing is accomplished with paralysis by analysis. To be perfectly honest, there are lots of speakers made by Celestion, Eminence, Warehouse and, if you can wait long enough for them to break in, Jensen, that we could and would be perfectly happy with, but we would also choose them carefully, taking into account all the factors mentioned above. After a couple of days spent swapping speakers, we ultimately concluded that we preferred the ’64 C12N for a classic tweed Deluxe tone, and a broken-in Celestion G12H 70th Anniversary for the most mind-altering 18 watt Marshall tone we have ever heard. Seriously. More on that in a minute….
Having split more than a few hairs with our speaker swaps, it was time to start picking nits off of gnats with some output transformer evaluations. We first contacted Dave Allen of Allen Amplification, who also stocks Heyboer transformers built to his specs. We found a variety of appropriate output transformers on Allen’s site that offered subtle variations on a stock original Deluxe OT, and we asked Dave to describe the TO26 model we wished to try in the Deluxe:
“The TO26 was intended as a hot rodding upgrade to a stock Deluxe Reverb OT. While maintaining the stock 3-1/8” mounting centers, its fat stack of hotter core steel and multi-tap secondary make it a good choice for builders wanting to maximize the performance of a pair of 6V6s and who may also want to push the envelope with 6L6/5881s while still being able to clear the speaker in a stock cabinet. There are physical limitations in small amps, so its short low profile is welcome. The orientation of the laminations is also good for low hum pick up from the power transformer. I found that an OT mounted the tall way (like my TO30D) picks up considerably more hum simply due to its orientation to the power transformer, so, shoe-horning a ‘tallish’ OT into your amp may cause it to pick up hum from the power transformer – not much of an upgrade. “The TO26’s 7K to 8 or 16 ohm rating makes it ideal for a pair of 6V6s as well as 3,500 ohm to 4 or 8 rating for 6L6/5881s. Notice you always have an 8 ohm option with both types of power tubes. An impedance switch could be wired (I use a blackface grounding switch) as a power tube type selector for an 8 ohm speaker to go between 6V6s and 6L6s. The TO26 will typically give slightly more output with 6V6s due to its more efficient low-loss core steel and will keep the bass clean longer for more perceived clean headroom. As it takes the most watts to reproduce the bass, you notice distortion there first, and since Fender-type amps are so bass heavy, you can quickly hit the wall with headroom, so a noticeable increase in clean bass response certainly feels like a more powerful amp with the TO26. It is kind of like you installed a new speaker with a larger ceramic magnet that is more efficient than the old speaker. The amp is a little louder and the bass a little tighter or cleaner.
“There seem to be a lot of 6L6-based 5E3 amps out there now to get a little clean headroom from a circuit normally not known for much of that. The TO26 is a good choice for that type of amp as it will fit typical available chassis and cabinets. It has extra long 12” topcoat leads ready to strip and solder. I would reckon it would handle up to about 30 watts before starting to saturate and compress – plenty of cathode-biased 6L6s. I find that the Heyboer paper stick-wound and interleaved output transformers with premium core steel and heavy core stacks have typically better clarity or definition than ‘stock’ OTs. Call it fidelity or whatever you want – just clearer distorted and complex tones and better separation of notes in chords, etc. I use the TO26 in the Allen Sweet Spot, Accomplice Jr. and Hot Fudge with Nuts amps with excellent results. All of these amps can use either 6V6 or 6L6 power tubes. You know how a 5F6-A or Super Reverb has that huge 4 bolt OT for a pair of 6L6s to get the maximum clean bottom end? That is sort of what the TO26’s OT is to a pair of 6V6s. It just doesn’t even come close to saturating.
When we informed Dave that we planned to run the Deluxe with 6L6/5881 power tubes as well as 6V6s, he recommended that we try the TO26 since it had been specifically designed for such applications. He also sent a smaller TO20 transformer, described as being designed with a wider 1-1/4′′ lamination “fat stack” that provides 60% additional core mass than typical ¾′′ stack units for improved performance. The TO20 is a direct replacement for Blues Jr. and Princeton Reverb amps, and also suitable for dual EL-84 amps with an 8 ohm load.
Mr. Valco also sent us a replacement 5E3 output transformer he had bought on sale from Clark Amplification a few years ago made for Mike Clark by Magnetics Components in Schiller Park, IL – a company that has been producing transformers since 1943, having been the primary supplier for Valco and various Gibson amps in the ’50s and ’60s. A call to the company revealed that ToneQuest ReportV12. N1. Nov. 20104the transformer Valco sent was essentially their replacement for a Deluxe Reverb, model #40-18002 without bell ends per Clark’s request. We also learned that the company offers a complete range of Classic Tone vintage power and output transformers, including a reverse-engineered clone of a ’55 Triad 5E3 output tranny, model #18022.
We also contacted Paul Patronete at Mercury and requested a ToneClone “brown Deluxe” output transformer, since Larry Cragg had provided them with specific measurements from original OT in Neil’s ’61 tweed Deluxe, confirming that it was indeed a ’61–’62 brown Deluxe tranny. With a total of 6 output transformers to listen to, we took the Deluxe to Jeff Bakos, who set up a rig on his bench that enabled us to clip in each transformer and very quickly switch back and forth between them as we played a guitar through the amp. Are we having fun yet? Here’s what we heard:
Lenco – An excellent authentic “vintage” vibe for those that prefer the classic, if somewhat murkier sound of a tweed amp being pushed, lots of sag in the low end and a jangly pop in the top. And “old,” rather “lo-fi” sound indicative of the ’50s era amps.
Magnetics Components Clark Deluxe 18002 – Similar to the Lenco, but stronger and more robust, with a prominent growling character and voice. Thick, wooly and willin’ with better treble presence and clear string definition then the Lenco, yet an entirely “vintage” character. This tranny is comparable to those found in Deluxe amps from the brown era through silverface. Excellent power, punchy and fat with exceptional clarity and tone.
Magnetic Components 5E3 Clone – Percussive and dynamic with a faster attack response than the Clark/Deluxe Reverb version, this transformer was reverse-engineered from an original ’55 Deluxe OT. IT imparts an intense, throaty tweed character with enhanced mid and treble presence, remarkable clarity, and an authentic vintage ’50s vocal tone with softer bass response and slightly less volume and power than the Deluxe 18002.
Allen/Heyboer TO20 – An interesting variation with a much more modern, percussive dynamic character. The sound was not as heavy and imposing in the vintage style, and with this transformer the Deluxe reminded us of the more refined sound of a Fender Princeton, with excellent dynamic punch for slide and Allen/Heyboer TO26 – As advertised, the low end held up loud and proud with very little sag and an audibly higher threshold of clean headroom, although beyond 6 on the volume control the Deluxe was still holding nothing back. Overall, this transformer imparts a cleaner, high fidelity tone with more clarity and stout bass response than a typical stock 5E3 transformer. An excellent choice for enhanced low-end and maximum volume.
Mercury Magnetics brown Deluxe – Immediately recognizable, the Mercury displayed a trademark sound that is smooth, exceptionally musical, warm and balanced. Sounding more “high fidelity” than the Lemco or Magnetic Components transformers, but still seductively unruly enough to get yer ya-ya’s out. Sweet, rich, detailed and sticky.
Now, you may be wondering why we would bother to audition so many output transformers…. How much difference can it make? Well, forty-odd years ago when someone rigged that old Stancor tranny in the Deluxe, the only choice available to most repair shops was whatever was on hand in the scrap pile. Today we can shape the tone and dynamic response of an amp with a variety of “vintage” or more modern, custom transformers that allow us to recapture the original sound and feel of the amp, or improve upon the original design. Why did Cesar Diaz install output transformers for a Twin Reverb in Stevie’s Super Reverb amps, and Bassman transformers in his Vibroverbs? Because the first thing that chokes and overwhelms a smaller output transformer are the bass frequencies, and Cesar wanted Stevie’s amps to produce a rock-solid, thundering low end that could handle his massive wound strings. The tone we’re celebrating with our ’59 Deluxe is quite the opposite…. The raucous sound of the amp teetering on the edge is the key to it’s exploding tone, but if you wanted to go in the opposite direction with more headroom and a tighter low end, transformers like the TO26 have been specifically designed for that purpose. We once replaced the output transformer in our Pro reverb with a bigger MercuryToneClone Bassman, and the Pro grained a tone of clean headroom and unyielding bottom. Wanna make it even harder still? Use a plug-in diode rectifier in place of the 5AR4 rectifier tube. No saggy britches now. As with so many choices we make in the Quest for tone, the final decision comes down to your mission and individual taste, and Jeff agreed that between the Heyboer TO26, both Magnetic Components trannies and the Mercury brown Deluxe, the question wasn’t which one was “best” – all four were exceptional, but different. Some players would prefer one over another for different reasons described here, but all of them represent stellar examples of just how far we’ve come since the day that old Stancor tranny was used to put the Two Fifty Nine back into service.
One last detail needed to be addressed…. Could we safely run the Deluxe with 5881s or 6L6s if we preferred that sound over 6V6s? Once again, we asked the prescient Mr. Valco for some Hoosier insight:
“The impedance mismatch in this particular amp using the 6L6s is really not a big concern, it won’t hurt the amp and will either sound good or it won’t. The 6L6s draw 1.8 amps and two 6V6s draw 0.9 amp, so using the 6L6s will add about 1 amp more current draw that the power transformer needs to supply from the 6.3 volt heater windings. On some small 6V6 amps, using 6L6s can and does cause the power transformer to run hotter because more current equates to more heat. The concern is that the power transformer in the Deluxe, not being a large one to start with, has the extra 1 amp of heater current capacity to safely use the 6L6s. One way to determine if the power transformer is really stressed out with the 6L6s is to measure the AC heater voltage on pins 2 and 7 on the power tube sockets (or on the pilot lamp) and see if the AC voltage drops significantly from the reading using 6V6s versus 6L6s. It should be a bit over 6.3 volts AC with the 6V6 anyway (since the wall voltage is higher these days than in the early ’60s) and with the 6L6s you sure don’t want to see a large drop in voltage below 6.3 volts AC. If there is a large drop it means the transformer is having trouble supplying enough current for the 6L6 heaters if given enough time with the 6L6s could damage the power transformer. If the drop is only a few 10th of a volt, and doesn’t go below 6.3 AC, then it would indicate that the transformer is supplying the demand for the heater current and should be OK. Most Fender amps used power transformers that could handle some extra current demand.
And now we arrive at the moment of truth. We’ve been steadily reeling in a parade of new and classic amps for review in these pages for 12 years now this month – Marshall, Fender, Magnatone, Hiwatt, Vox, Valco, Silvertone, Ampeg, Gibson, Gretsch, Mesa Boogie, Park, Supro, Dickerson, Traynor, Budda, Western Auto, Standel, Dumble, Cornell, Clark, Crate, Divided by 132, Reeves, Bad Cat, Gabriel, Fuchs, Koch, Star, Category 5, 65 Amps, Balls, Bakos, Callaham, Blankenship, Reinhardt, Grammatico, Siegmund, Chicago Blues Box, Roccaforte, Headstrong, Rivera, Mad Professor, Talos, Maven Peal, Reverend, BC Audio, Savage, Goodsell, Fargen, Carol-Ann, DST, Two Rock, Germino, Matchless, Louis Electric, Swart, Demeter, Juke, Aiken, Bluetron, DeArmond, Carr, Victoria, and Dr. Z, with more coming. Lots of amplifiers, multiple models from the same builders, and among the foremost classics – Fender, Marshall, Vox, Hiwatt, Gibson, Ampeg and the entire Valco catalog, we have acquired, optimized and restored dozens of amps considered to be among the most desirable vintage models ever built. In the 20 watt wheelhouse occupied by the Two Fifty Nine, it has no equal by a mile. Game over.
After a lot of back and forth testing with different sets of output tubes, we became hooked on the thundering sound produced by a pair of Philips small-bottle 6L6WGBs. Thanks to Larry Pogreba’s talent for scavenging rare tubes (in Montana, no less), we are flush with several outstanding and stout pairs of RCA 6L6s, but the brighter Philips really lit up the Deluxe with a fresh and lively attitude that mirrors the bounce of a newer amp. With the ’64 Jensen C12N loaded, the Deluxe spookily nails the tones of Neil Young’s rig on Ragged Glory – a “studio” recording cut live with the Deluxe and Old Black in a barn on Young’s ranch with Crazy Horse. With the volume backed off to 4-5 a bluesy jangle emerges anchored by solid low end, rich midrange, the sweetest treble tones imaginable, and variable levels of sustain and edgy distortion that can be controlled both by the volume on the guitar and pick attack. The Deluxe does not discriminate between single coils or humbuckers, ravaging both with equal fervor, and the responsive dynamic character of this amp simply is not of this world. Rotating the single tone control sharpens treble without dumping lows or mids, while also subtlety increasing gain, as if you were using a boost pedal. A “Y” cord plugged into the Instrument and Microphone inputs enables the two channels to be mixed with great effect. As Neil Young described, bringing the mic input volume up with the instrument volume set between 6-8 gradually deepens the tone while slowly igniting an intense explosion of thicker second order harmonics and distortion as the dynamic character of the amp softens. Pushing the Instrument volume level up into the 8-12 range brings the volume up to a perceived level that exceeds 20 watts, while provoking an angry, pissed-off cascade of astonishingly rich musical distortion as the notes swerve into controlled harmonic feedback.
Switching from the Jensen to the Celestion transforms the Deluxe into the most stunningly toneful 20 watt Marshall you could possibly imagine. To be honest, you probably can’t imagine it, because we have never heard anything like this ourselves, even after owning a couple of vintage Marshall PA20s, a rare Lead & Bass head and 1×12 cabinet, and a Balls 2×12 18 watt. We could easily live with either speaker, and the Deluxe also just kills pushing our 8 ohm 4×12 pinstripe cabinet.
For those of you who appreciate a somewhat tamer vibe, we can assure you that the Deluxe loaded with a fine pair of 6V6s is equally mind-altering. The overall sound is a wee bit smaller in girth and less imposing, yet abundantly overflowing with vivid harmonic depth, a supremely touch-sensitive response, and brilliant combination of fidelity, clarity and bloom. Compared to a black or silverface Deluxe Reverb, the ’59 presents a more musically complex soundstage, less harsh, stiff and linear, and it lacks both the sharper treble of a blackface amp, and the scooped midrange character. The tone is rounder and meatier, the treble sweeter and less dominant, with an enhanced 3-D image.
Now, if you’re the type that skeptically requires a qualifier to add a stamp of legitimacy to such an over-the-top review, here it is, Mr. Been There-Done That…. The Deluxe doesn’t and won’t spew big clean tones at stage volume. Our ’58 Tremolux produces a cleaner tone with a higher threshold of clean headroom by far at comparable volume levels, and the taller tweed cabinet encourages a stronger, cleaner resonant bass and low mid response. The Tremolux is also equipped with a Mercury ToneClone Tremolux output transformer, which creates a tone that is less wooly, raucous and indistinct.
The busted-up sound of the Tremolux above 5–6 is gloriously righteous indeed, but with more clarity and less provocative intensity than the Deluxe. Taken in context, what we’re suggesting here is that in our experience, the Deluxe has no equal as both a Fender and Marshall style 20 watt rocker (depending on speaker selection), and we’ll add “blues” to that description equipped with 6V6s and the Jensen C12N. During our 2-month test period, we also routinely used our Lee Jackson Mr. Springgy reverb, Analogman-modded Boss DD3 digital delay, and a very cool, versatile (and cheap) Flip tube tremolo pedal reviewed here. Can a modern replica of the 5E3 Deluxe deliver the same inspiring tones as the Two Fifty Nine? The closest thing we’ve heard is the Louis Electric “Buster,” but no, magical happy accidents like this Deluxe can’t be reproduced today – and that is as it should and shall always be. Quest forth…
Those of you that have been with us for a while are already familiar with Jeff Bakos and Bakos Ampworks. Frankly, we would have a hard time doing what we do here without Jeff’s presence, just a few clicks west of Ponce de Leon Ave. After 15 years or so repairing, restoring amps, engineering recording sessions in his studio next door, and weathering the ‘80s and much of the ‘90s as a working bass player in a variety of bands, his enthusiasm for great tone remains undiminished.
In his spare time, when one of his customers expresses interest, Jeff has recently been building his own take on a tube-rectified Marshall JTM45. The character of the early JTM45 amps is a little more forgiving and less aggressive than the plexi and metal panel models, and this is accurately captured in the Plus 45. Like the Blankenship, the voice of the Bakos is rich, round, full and exceptionally musical, enhanced with thoughtful features developed after years repairing and tweaking hundreds of vintage Marshall amps. Jeff also built a custom version of the Plus 45 using the preamp section of a Gibson GA40 with interesting results, and both models are reviewed here. While skeptics won’t resist suggesting that we may be incapable of objectively reviewing an amp built by someone with whom we have an ongoing relationship (a member of our advisory board who also fixes our amps), we’ll assume you are better than that. Nothing gets reviewed here that doesn’t earn the ink. We asked Jeff to describe how the Plus 45 was conceived, and our review follows….
JB: What I wanted to do was build a more versatile version of a tube-rectified 45 watt Marshall. I experimented with a lot of different capacitors, tubes, transformers and front panel control features, and I would up choosing to include a switchable master volume and a tone mid-boost.
TQR: But you didn’t use the early Marshall master volume circuit….
JB: No, I used the version that is found in Orange amps and Matchless that works from the phase inverter. It’s an easy one to bypass, and it sounds good until you get below 3-4 on the volume control.
TQR: What were you chasing tone-wise?
JB: Well, originally Marshall used KT66s, and having played a lot of Marshalls, I thought the tone was better with EL34s. They seem to produce a better bass response without being too woofy, and the EL34s have some sparkle in the top end that the KT66 slack. And the Mercury Magnetics transformers selected operate at higher plate voltages that give you more head-room, cleaner tones, and even a cleaner kind of distortion. And unlike many of the early Marshalls, the tone controls really work in the way they exert an audible effect on EQ rather than everything being so notched in the mids. The old Marshall inputs were either super bright or too bassy, so I played around with the cap values on the inputs to make them more usable and versatile. It’s a combination of higher plate voltages, the output tranny design, EL34s, the master volume mod, and tweaking the cap values for each channel so that you aren’t stuck with the original dull and super bright tones in the two original channels. I also use Sozo caps, and they have a very vintage sound. It’s the sum of the parts…. I also changed the pot value for the presence control, and I added a push/pull mid range boost. It’s a very pedal friendly amp, too, because it has a lot of headroom.
TQR: What types of tubes did you choose?
JB: SvetlanaEL34s, a Chinese (Ruby) 5AR4 and a couple of EI12AX7s and a JJ. The Svetlanas have a nice mid range character where some of the others sounded a little flat.
TQR: And speakers?
JB: The Avatar Hellatone G12H 70th Anniversary seems to be really good for the combos. Great low end and very balanced and round.
TQR: And then you began experimenting with Mark Johnson’s amp, who plays busted up slide in mostly smaller venues, and the stock Plus 45 was too clean….
JB: Yeah, I toyed with the idea of building a front end using 5879 preamp tubes similar to a Gibson GA40. It sounds really good – it has a lot of high gain and it gets there really quick.It’s dynamically very responsive, and of course, far more powerful than the originalGA40… you can hear the 5879 sound with lots of gain, but with more headroom behind it.
TQR: If someone asked for a Plus 45, but with a higher or lower threshold of clean headroom, can you do that? How flexible can you be?
JB: This Bassman circuit does give you some room to work with different rectifiers and cap values, but it’s already the cleaner side of a vintage Marshall, which makes it very pedal friendly, and the gain is there when you need it – you’re just not stuck or locked with it.
TQR: What’s next? You’ve mentioned building a black-face Deluxe and the Gibson GA40.
JB: Well, I own a lot of amps and I’m inspired by them all in different ways, but yeah… what to build? Given the parts availability we have today with chassis, cabinets and transformers, building classic designs and modifying them to taste is where it’s at. I’m open to building whatever people wanton a custom basis as time permits
The “stock” version of the Plus 45 (no GA40 preamp section) reveals a strong amp with much more headroom and articulation than you’d normally associate with an early Marshall design. Features include two individually voiced channels, master volume, treble, mid, bass, presence and mid-boost. Channel 1 (bright) played with a Strat at moderate volume levels is almost Fender-clean, but stops well short of sounding too thin or sharp. What it does add is a sparkly, tactil equality to the treble tones that you’ll never squeeze from a vintage Marshall… with the mid-boost on, the tone becomes thicker with a subtle increase in sustain, yet string definition and note separation remain clear and undiminished. Channel2 is chunkier, but nothing like the dull and bassy 2nd channel in a 4-input vintage Marshall. You’ll use this one liberally without jumping it with the bright channel.
The Plus 45willingly responds to stronger pickups like hum-buckers, Telebridge and P90s with a formidable presence that dwarfs more modestly powered amplifiers, producing rock solid lows, fat and politely forward mids, and a smooth treble character that hangs tough in complex chords and single string solos. Best of all, it’s easy to move from clean tones a tan audible stage volume to varied levels of distortion and sustain intensity from the volume control on your guitar –channel switching not required. If you don’t require and can’t handle a 45 watt amp, we understand, but nothing hangs fire like big iron, and the Plus 45fills a room with thundering tone that cannot be rendered from 20 watts. In fact, it reminds us more than a little of the tube-rectified 1961 blonde Bassman 6G6 reviewed in the April 2007 issue of TQR. The master volume nimbly attenuates volume from settings above 10 o’clock with a tone that is slightly thinner than the natural over driven sound of the amp at the lower set-tings, but the results are good and definitely usable, with none of the weak, fizziness you may have experienced with other master volume circuits.The Plus 45 with GA40 preamp section is an entirely different beast, with a lower threshold of clean headroom and much faster ramp-up into a hot meltdown compliments of the dual 5879 preamps tubes. Basically, it sounds like a 45 watt GA40 that naturally mates well with single coils. With more powerful humbuckers, we had to pull a large part of the bass EQ out of the signal lest we blow up our precious Celestion Alnicogold speakers (or so it seemed). The GA4 0version of the Plus 45 is no plaything – a serious appliance for players who want to make a lasting impression. Jeff can voice this amp for more or less bass and treble response based on your preferences, band like the original Plus 45, you can choose between a head, 1×12 or 2×12 combo.
Gibson / Epiphone Spring Reverb Driver — #E-6400 — for the 4FB reverb (2 spring) 9.8K in, 1475 out — for the 9FB reverb (3 spring) 13K in, 1925 out
Correct for the Gibson Falcon amp (and others)
Mark Dewey is a former hair-rocker who’s graduated to the corporate world and Gibson Custom Shop Les Pauls. We were impressed by his collection of reissues, and intrigued by his custom-looking Strats, so we talked a little further with Mark about his collection and playing history. Here’s Mark’s collection, in his own words.
“This shows pretty much my backline of amps. All of my Marshalls have been modified by Alan Cyr of the Amp Exchange in Woodland Hills, California. He is the best amp guru alive for Marshall amps. They all have Mercury iron and just blister like nothing I have ever heard. I also have a Divided by 13 FTR 37 that Fred Taccone built for me a few years ago. His stuff is very unique — super big clean sounds and a Marshall-Vox-like kind of brown sound on the click channel.
“I still pretty much plug a guitar directly into a Marshall and use the volume as a gain control for my main sound. Sometimes I will Y two amps together and have one DSL 100 with a slight delay and the other 59 HW head or 50 watt JCM 800 as pure tone.
“In the first photo, you also see a bunch of Gibson Custom guitars and a lineup of custom-built Strats. I got a little carried away with finding the best body wood/neck combinations last year so I built 15 of them. I also have experimented with a ton of pickup manufacturers like Seymour Custom winds, Suhr, DiMarzio, Nordstrand and a few others. My favorite pickup is pretty much a BurstBucker in a Les Paul Historic. They just sound like an open vowel waiting for your strings to vibrate. They are open, airy, clean, crunchy, stingy and have a ton of balls and low end while still being very clear and well-balanced.
“I have tried most [pickup] manufacturers cold and hot. For singles I like Seymour Duncan Custom calibrated set of Alnico 2: 6.5, 6.5 (RW Middle), 6.5. MJ knows what she is doing and is great to work with. The John Suhr v60 LPs are equally as awesome for single coils. I have never tried a BurstBucker in a Strat, so I stick with Seymour or DiMarzio humbuckers. I like the five-way Superstrat wiring where you take two humbuckers and split the north coils on position 2 and the south coils on position 4. Since the pickups are reverse of each other this makes all five positions humbucking. I usually use a hi-pass filter on the volume so it rolls down clean and sparkly.
“Most of the guitars in my Gibson Custom Collection are newer reissues from 2001 to 2008. I made the jump and bought my first ’59 from Willcutt’s guitars for $4000. It was a lot of money but quite frankly once I got the guitar, I realized I would rather have the guitar than the money so I was hooked and now have quite a few of them. The sound of a Custom Shop Les Paul is just so much better than anything else for rock guitar. I pretty much only play a Strat every now and then, especially for whammy bar gymnastics.
Ice Water Mansion (Mark is second from left).
“Here are a few of my prime Custom Shop Les Pauls a few years ago. These are some of my favorites actually. However, I have never found one guitar or amp that does it all. There is no true “favorite” — they are all different. I have never had a guitar I thought was “the one.” Perhaps this is the devil’s snare for materialism. I also could not fathom buying a real ’59 because I already worry enough when I put a ’59 reissue in the back seat of my car. Imagine getting a $300,000 guitar stolen?
About Mark
“In the eighties I was in Ice Water Mansion – a hard rock eighties hair band from upstate New York. I used to use BC Rich (USA high end), Dean (USA), Fender (USA) and Ibanez, but never liked seventies or eighties Gibsons. I bought an ’84 Explorer that just sucked. I only wish they had the custom shop of today back then.
“This was a song I wrote about being scared of the dark — “Ghosts in the mirror.” I used my Marshall JCM 800 with a Fender Strat loaded with a humbucker with a boss compressor as a boost for lead schwing.
“I don’t play in a band at the moment but I certainly play about two hours every day and all weekend. I have twp boys, ages four and five who both love guitars. My four-year-old plays drums like a man and also loves his plastic guitar collection. He has about ten, which makes me wonder if we are teaching him the sin of excess which I never meant to do myself.
“I guess at 43, I am done trying to make it big so I just focus on playing for the soul and the enjoyment. When you play a guitar, you forget about the wood in your hands and just kind of get “out there” and that is my bliss.
“I have also really enjoyed building, testing and working on gear too. I never thought I would even play guitar past 25, but I guess it now plays me!”
Listen to Mark’s Guitars
Mark was nice enough to share some YouTube clips of his guitars in action. Says Mark, “These are by no means anything but my wife holding her Sony camera sideways but you can sure hear the tone….”
Source: https://mercurymagnetics.com/pages/news/PremierGuitar/PremierG-14.htm
In part I of our Marshall JTM-45 transformation process, we installed a point-to-point board from Metropoulos Amplification (www.metroamp.com) and began to hear the positive results of our test Marshall as it came to new life.
Now, in Part II of our continued Marshall JTM-45 transformation, we move forward with two additional changes in addition to having the opportunity to compare the final results to an original 1964 badge-logo Marshall JTM-45. The two changes that we decided to perform were to swap out the stock output transformer to a Mercury Magnetics™ (www.MercuryMagnetics.com) Axiom® O45JT-C model as well as to upgrade the board’s capacitors to those made by SoZo Amplification. To say that we were excited as well as just plain curious about the final results, especially when we could now compare it to an original JTM-45 — is an understatement.
We contacted Paul Patronete at Mercury Magnetics™ and he hooked us up with the Axiom® output transformer. Paul added that the Axiom® O45JT-C is a custom version output using Teflon wire instead of the normal UL1015 vinyl wire. The Axiom® O45JT-C output offers 8 & 16 ohm secondary taps. When it comes to output transformers for the JTM45 amp, Mercury Magnetics™ offers a plethora of options beyond the stock, cloned, vintage replacement. Options available in the Axiom® line of output transformers are primaries optimized for KT66/6L6/5881 tubes or EL34/KT77 tubes. Secondaries with just about any output impedance combination that one could want. Many of these custom Axiom® models feature “mil-spec” Teflon wire leads with silver tinned, nineteen strands of high purity copper. All of the Axiom® transformers are hand wound from period correct specimen, vintage blueprints. One of the more popular Axiom® pieces that Mercury Magnetics™ offers is an exact clone of the highly coveted Radio Spares output transformer. The Radio Spares output is from the early original, first run Marshall JTM-45 production amplifiers. Mercury Magnetics™ offers several versions of the Radio Spares output. One of the most popular versions is a Teflon wire leaded version. The Radio Spares transformer is well-known for its association with the earliest Marshalls and according to Paul is what you’d find in the famous Eric Clapton “Bluesbreaker”-era amp.
Those that have listened to or played through a properly running Marshall JTM-45 know the sound. It’s a smooth and naturally compressed distorted tone that when pushed will provide just enough crunch to know it’s characteristically a Marshall, but without any of the “buzzing bees” preamp tones characteristic in high-gain preamp-gain emphasized amplifiers. As you push the volume controls up higher on a the best JTM-45s, it’s clearly the sound of rock with its fat bottom end, lovely harmonic overtones, and sustain that sits well with the best blues and classic rock tones heard. All of this packaged in an amp that really is one of the most dynamic and player-responsive amps ever built.
The reissue JTM-45, while certainly not a “bad” amplifier on its own, really does lack much of the detail and smoothness that is really much easier to grasp and identify when heard. For example, the reissue JTM-45 in stock form would thicken up appropriately with the expected tube compression when turned up, but it clearly was not as smooth. There are definitely some tones that sound a bit “grainy” and edgy that a properly running original JTM-45 doesn’t have.
A project such as this JTM-45 reissue transformation offers an exciting opportunity for those serious about maximizing their tone, but either don’t have or don’t want to shell out the prices for the originals. As of this writing in early 2004, script-logo JTM-45s are commanding a minimum of $4,000 and the better examples are going for more than that. Our badge logo JTM-45 featured here generously on loan for the story has a value that may well be approaching $10,000 by today’s estimates.
With that aside, we should start out by saying that this is not a thorough “apples-to-apples” comparison between the two amps. To be 100% fair, ALL the components would have to be altered to the exact specifications of our 1964 badge-logo Marshall JTM-45 and that really wasn’t the point. The point of these transformations was to get the stock reissue JTM-45 sounding more like the “real thing” as described above with regards to the powerful, smooth and dynamic Marshall tone.
Another issue beyond the component values is that we’ve opted to keep the power transformer in stock form for the time being in the JTM-45. As a result the transformers will supply a different amount of B+ current to the plates and so it will not respond in exactly the same way as the original Badge logo model.
One final, and perhaps most important point, which Mercury Magnetics™ vice-president Sergio Hamernik added: “The transformer in a 30-year old amplifier will sound characteristically different as it ages compared to a new replacement, even if the replacement is built with the same materials.” And while the component materials and manufacturing methods used by Mercury Magnetics™ are made to the exact same standards as the originals (Sergio also added “Every turn, every layer, is copied and blueprinted exactly, including any original manufacturing anomalies found during our rewinding process of the original, vintage specimen, Sergio emphasized that the ToneClone™ series transformer will still sound different, but “like the original did in the amp when it was new” and not like the tone of the aged 30-year-old transformer. Since much of our favorite tones were recorded at least 20 years ago, perhaps this isn’t such a bad thing?
Sergio did suggest breaking in the new Axiom® transformer with 20 to 40 hours of hard playing time. He also said that this break-in period will get the transformer about halfway there to that 30 year seasoned tonality. Thermal cycling and running magnetizing currents through the transformer (playing the amp) will definitely sweeten things up in that period of time.
We could and may still make further changes to the reissue JTM-45 in the future and report back. However, with the point-to-point board, reduced “vintage” filtering, and tube swap that we performed last time around, along with the planned replacement of the on-board capacitors and output transformer for this second round, we thought that we’d be in really good shape with the final tonal results of this amp. And for those that missed it previously, we had previously written about Mercury Magnetics™ output transformers used in a 50 watt Marshall and were very pleased with the results. We anticipated nothing but the same results with the change in the reissue JTM-45 this time as well.
So far our project amp has KT-66 power tubes, 32x32uf and 16x16uf filter caps and a Metro Amps point-to-point circuit board. At this stage, we were very satisfied with the results. We could have stopped here and had a real tone machine, but we wanted to see if we could get even closer with a few more changes. Sonically, the reissue at this point prior to the SoZo caps and output transformer change, did exhibit more of the growl and gain of the original, but it still wasn’t nearly as smooth or as dynamically punchy as the badge logo JTM-45 was.
Mike Mullen on testing the SoZo Caps
While waiting for our Mercury Magnetics™ output transformer, I read about some capacitors that created quite a buzz on the Plexi Palace vintage amp forum. We found that SoZo Amplification was offering custom made capacitors aptly named “mustard caps”. They are obviously mustard yellow but apparently these caps are also made to the same specifications as the yellow mustard capacitors which were originally found in tube amps from the 1960s and 1970s. These little yellow jewels keep the foil thickness, polyester film dielectric and voltage ratings the same as the originals. In addition to the material makeup of the capacitors they also share the same physical dimensions. According to the SoZo Amplification website, the physical shape has a lot to do with the sound because it changes the slew rate.
The SoZo Mustard Cap is longer and thinner as compared to most high production caps readily available today. The additional length results in a different signal delivery time, changing the harmonics of the capacitor and yields smooth, clear, thick lower-mids. Polyester film was chosen because of its deeper tonal character and aluminum foil was chosen to exactly recreate the capacitor’s original sound and performance. SoZo also chooses to use tin-coated pure copper leads, which SoZo claims aids in the retro mustard cap sound.
I promptly received the package containing five .022uF and three .1uF SoZo Mustard Caps and soldered them in. In about thirty minutes all the caps were installed and I was ready to hear the results.
I flipped on the power, plugged in a Seth Lover-loaded Gibson Les Paul and let the KT-66’s warm for a few minutes. Turning off standby, I decided to start with my best impression of Angus Young from AC/DC to entertain my neighbors. What I heard from my Celestion loaded 2×12 cabinet was clear, warm guitar tones that sounded ALIVE! The tone of the amp was basically the same, but it was much clearer, richer and more complex than what I heard before. I was very pleased with the improvement.
Anyone that is due for a cap job on his or her favorite amp should really give the SoZo “mustards” a try and change those along with the electrolytics while you’re already there. I think the results are very satisfying and the cost runs about the same as a decent guitar cable. The caps can be ordered direct from SoZoAmplification.com or from MetroAmp.com. MetroAmp.com is offering these SoZo caps individually or they can be ordered with one of their point-to-point boards.
A final point is that SoZo amplification states that there is a break-in period for the capacitors and that the tone will actually improve and be at best form sonically sometime between 40 and 70 hours of use. While I’m not there yet as far as hours of use, I definitely like what I’m hearing so far!
Installation and listening to the Mercury Magnetics™ O45JT-C Output Transformer
The Axiom® 045JT-C output transformer is part of the Mercury Magnetics™ Axiom® ToneClone™ series, and is 100% hand wound in the USA by Mercury Magnetics™ at their factory in Southern California. Mercury Magnetics™ offers a number of transformer clones for JTM-45 amplifiers as Marshall used a few different suppliers during different times with its own JTM-45s originally. Some people may have a preference for the earliest transformer equipped in JTM-45s, which were those built by the Radio Spares company. According to Mercury Magnetics™, the Radio Spares output transformer has more “high-fidelity” characteristics in its tone. According to Paul at Mercury Magnetics™, their Radio Spares clone is a special, intricate transformer that produces a subsequently wider frequency response and in some ways mirrors other transformers in design such as the early famous Partridge units in the Hiwatts.
However with that said, there aren’t comparatively as many JTM-45s equipped with original Radio Spares output transformers so we went with the more commonly found transformers as found in later JTM-45s. When speaking with Paul, he also noted that the original, vintage “Radio Spares” equipped JTM45 amplifiers are highly sought after and can command big dollars in the musical marketplace. Perhaps we’ll experiment with one in the future to hear the differences for ourselves.
The installation of any output transformer, while seemingly “simple” (“hey there’s only a few wires right?”) should actually only be performed by either a professional technician or by an enthusiast with a minimum of Electronics 101 knowledge, including the ability to read schematic diagrams, an understanding voltages and polarity, etc. This is the advice directly from Mercury Magnetics™.
The transformer includes a wiring diagram sheet listing the color-coded primary and secondary wires, and these may not necessarily match the wiring in your amp. Mercury Magnetics™ also warns that installers put safety first, as there are literally hundreds of AC volts that can come off of the primary. A typical technician will charge 30 to 90 minutes of labor for the installation, which can average anywhere from $50 to $150.00. Prices and the time required to install an output transformer can vary from technician to technician.
*Installation tip: anyone planning to replace both the output transformer and circuit board may want to remove the old circuit board and output transformer first and then mount the new transformer. Then you can install the point-to-point board and not have to mess with it later to get at the output transformer mounts.
After some time and with the transformer installed, it was time to play! But first, a few minutes with the badge-logo JTM-45….
Taking a Classic for a Test Drive
The original badge-logo Marshall JTM-45 is truly an example of a wonderfully responsive guitar amplifier. In its best state, it can provide a range of tones that vary between the liquid and thicker lead tones of early Clapton, to the warmer side of the Marshall crunch a la AC/DC that we all know and love. The vintage badge-logo JTM-45, that we have the good fortune of borrowing courtesy of our good friend Woody (thank you!), had recently gone through a full check-up through southern California’s own Plexi Palace, so we knew that it was in fine form.
And it certainly sounds like it. No other Marshall seems to be as well suited to provide such a wide tonal range as well as being able to provide a feel with beautiful harmonics and compression as a JTM-45 circuit. The sense of dynamics that can be controlled with one’s technique was right on the money. This JTM-45 plain and simply is THE ultimate blues and rock amplifier.
It stings and bites as musically as one could imagine with a Fender Stratocaster using the bridge position pickup with the Marshall’s channels bridged and the volumes set at about 7. With the neck pickup, the tones are fluid and with a bit of a gain boost from a floor box could easily capture the full sustain similar to what a player like Eric Johnson would get. The power output on the amp is moderately high, but at the JTM’s power range, it really is a nice match against any solid-hitting drummer and the perfect club amp for small and mid-sized venues.
With a Gibson Les Paul in hand loaded with LegendaryTones.com’s current favorite Seymour Duncan Antiquities and running the badge-logo JTM-45 through a basket weave Marshall cabinet (NOT the cabinet photographed here which is an earlier pinstripe) with original 25 watt greenbacks, the tone of the bridge pickup was pure AC/DC circa “Powerage” when running the volumes at about 6. With the volumes set at 7, the added gain and thickness moved into “Highway to Hell” territory. Switching to the neck pickup provided a wallop of a fat tone that seemed like it could sustain for days. Think early Cream here.
Listening in on the reissue JTM-45
After that experience with the 1964 badge-logo JTM-45, part of me didn’t want to turn the amp off, but alas it was time to move to our modified reissue. Running the same controls (and in fact the same tubes were used and setup in both amps) and equipment, I started playing the reissue with the Strat first. The immediate first impression: the reissue JTM-45 felt great – the same feel of compression and control of the dynamics was there. And there was also a noticeable improvement between the circuit since the change of both the output transformer and SoZo caps. Besides having a bit more power and punch in the signal, these changes really seemed to smooth out the reissue JTM-45’s tone and were definitely much more pleasing to the ear.
But specifically what were the differences between the reissue and the original? Well, the modded reissue stood out with a bit more attack in the high frequencies. It’s definitely a bit of a brighter amp than the 1964 badge-logo, but not by a great deal and not bright in such a way as to be “piercing.” The reissue JTM-45 could definitely mimic the original with a simple reduction of presence and treble controls and it did very well. Also, both SoZo Amplification and Mercury Magnetics™ told us that there is a break-in period for the parts to obtain their final adjusted tone. Again, for the SoZo caps, its 40-70 hours, and Mercury Magnetics™ stated the average break-in period should be a minimum of 20 hours of hard playing time with its transformers.
All said, we couldn’t wait that long nor did we have the time to play continuously to then report on the changes, but maybe we’ll add a brief report in the future after the break-in period.
When switching to the Les Paul with the newly transformed JTM-45, the same characteristic bold crunch with a warm full bottom end was evident. The modified reissue JTM-45 is definitely smooth when overdriven and power chords are a thrill to bash out in AC/DC style. Leads in both pickup positions of the Paul sang nicely. The neck position is always powerful with the JTM-45.
Final Thoughts….
In both amps, the feel, sustain, and tone was tremendous. The reissue in its current form has a little bit more of a faster attack, while the original badge has a bit more of a relaxed sag to it characteristically. It’s also a little bit darker. That said, we expected differences especially considering that each amp’s circuits are not identical. But what they do both share together is the original Marshall tone that we grew up on and know and love. And the fact that this tone can be captured without the need to hunt down a costly original is a nice thing for players indeed. There is something to having an original — it’s a testament to a wonderful period of musical history that NO reissue would ever be able to capture from that perspective. But at the same time, one thing that the reissue has going for it in its favor is the fact that most players would feel much more comfortable taking it out to a gig or the all-night jam. I would be a bit paranoid taking out the original personally.
It’s a shame that some of our greatest musical instruments, whether we’re talking about a ’59 Les Paul or an original Marshall amp, are so highly-valued in this day and age that it’s difficult to “enjoy” playing them. However, isn’t it a nice thing that companies such as those featured in this article are so passionate about their products and in finding ways to empower musicians with great tonal solutions today? I’ve said it before — we’re definitely living in times of a tonal renaissance with the options we have and the number of great instruments, effects, and amps that we have available to us.
And though some people may say that, “they don’t build them like they used to,” I would actually agree. In the case of these dedicated companies and people, I believe they’re in fact building them better than they used to with care and meticulous detail that may not have always been present back in the day.
Source: https://mercurymagnetics.com/pages/news/LegendaryTones/LegendaryTones-02.htm
Where did you get the idea to start an amp company?
It was the K&F that got me started. Working at Fender and knowing the entire lineage, including the K&F era, which is kind of separate, it was really intriguing to see what kind of things he came up with. Because it was so rare, the K&F was really appealing to me.
How did you discover this cool original gear while at Fender?
People would come in with things that were not in regular production and would want to have things done and have items reproduced, and people would come in for repairs too. It was a nice influx of cool equipment coming in, and we would turn around and reproduce it to the best of our ability. One of the first pieces we did while I was there was the “snake-head” Tele set, the first regular Fender-style guitar that Leo built.
Doesn’t that predate the Nocaster?
Yes, in fact I think that guitar was a ’47 or ’48. It had a four-piece pine Telecaster-style body, two inches thick with a small, black Bakelite pickguard, volume and tone control, and one bridge pickup. The snake-head headstock was the style he was using on his K&F lap steels, so it had three-on-aside tuners, with a solid, fat, maple neck with no truss rod — he hadn’t thought about a truss rod yet! They only made a few of them, and they were made as a set with the woody Pro amp.
So, did you put truss rods in the reproductions?
No, but they are big, round, C-shaped necks, and they’re quarter sawn, so they don’t move around too much.
There are actually guys who believe that necks without truss rods sound better.
This guitar is really neat-sounding because we used antique pine. One of my first jobs there was to rough-cut these old pine boards, glue them up, and plug and fill nail holes. Looking at these old-style guitars and amplifiers in comparison to what was being manufactured at the time, I saw a night and day difference. These have a style to them that nobody does any more.
This got me started thinking about K&F. If the circuit for the woody Pro was primitive, then the K&F amp circuit was even more so. The Pro had 6L6s and a push-pull output, and a 15″ speaker — a field coil speaker, which we had a lot of problems with. The K&F amps didn’t use field-coils and were permanent-magnet.
Give us a little background on K&F.
It was Doc Kauffman and Leo Fender. The information on K&F varies, so I can’t give a perfect history. They started around late 1944, and ran probably to the end of ’45 or early ’46, then they stopped making these in mid-1946. Leo had done some really interesting things — he had designed an automatic jukebox and little P.A. systems, and he was working with his radio company. Then, he had an idea for these guitars. He started making them and it became popular enough that he needed a larger investment; Doc didn’t think he could invest in something that looked like a hillbilly guitar, and at that time, that was the type of music played on them.
I remember even up until the 1960s, many jazz guitarists looked down their noses at these and told us, “When you grow up, you’ll get a real guitar,” meaning something more traditional, like a Gibson archtop.
Yeah, so Doc left and the K&F company was dissolved. Finding pieces from that time period is hard because there’s no record of how many were made and there were no advertisements for them. I do have some pictures from George Fullerton that Doc’s son gave him of the first piece that they put together, which is nothing like the ones that went into production. It’s very beautiful.
Did you get to play that original Tele that was copied for this run of instruments?
Oh, no. The story behind that guitar was that Leo was a huge stickler for not keeping prototypes around. There were two of those — the first one was cut up and the second was thrown in the trash. George pulled it out of the trash. He was young and had just started working with the company; he was a guitar player and this was his creation too! He and Leo went to little bars and shows and listened to players. Without telling them what they were up to, they asked the players what they would want in a guitar, which became the basis for their business and designs: being able to change small parts out easily and being able to easily change the neck on a guitar. There was a bit of a stigma attached to their early instruments because they weren’t craftsman pieces — they were functional instruments.
Yes, they were outside the instrument crafting tradition. This was a modernist piece of design, rather than following classical instrument-building traditions.
Exactly. So when I started researching all the K&Fs, I talked to George who was there just after Doc left, and I got as much information as I could from the closest source. Strangely, though they made guitars and amps in sets, many of the guitars still exist while most of the amps do not. I figure that the guitar is a functional piece and all you have to do is change the strings, but if you have an amp go out, it might have been easier to just go buy another amp.
Was it through the process of reproducing old gear, and speaking with George Fullerton, that you became interested in the 1940s K&F amp?
Yes, that amplifier in particular because it was so simple and because the circuit was kind of the predecessor to the Princeton, but instead of having an 8″ speaker like a Princeton, it had a big, large-magnet, alnico 20-30 watt 10″ speaker. This was late ’44 or early ’45, and these amplifiers were made from military surplus parts, so they were all different and had this unique industrial look about them. Design-wise, it wasn’t made to be the prettiest thing out there — it was made to be functional.
So it was just “The K&F Amplifier” and they only made the one model?
No, see that’s the thing, they made one, and we know the record shows from Doc’s writing on the pictures I have, that the first one they made was beautiful! It had wooden sides, a grille cloth that was embroidered with K&F on the front, and a 15″ speaker. The photo says, This is the first K&F [lap] steel, and this is the first amplifier in the U.S. with a hanging chassis and hanging tubes.” Before that, everything was put on the bottom of the amplifier and the tubes all sat up.
And that amp is gone now?
Yeah, in John Sprung’s book, Fender Amps: The First Fifty Years, he wrote that this amp was made as a custom, one-off piece, and it is likely gone now, since the only pictures we have ever seen of it were the from the 1940s.
That would be a fun one to reproduce, wouldn’t it?
Oh, it would be amazing. There was an article in the October 1998 issue of Guitar Player with a 15″ K&F — the style of the K&F that I am reproducing. It was the same cabinet shape, just larger, and it is the only time I have seen a 15 other than that one custom one-off piece.
So what you had was three or four amps, all without names or model numbers which were essentially prototypes
Yes, they were “if this works we will make another just like it” sort of deals. There were two basic models that you see in published pictures. One is the 8″model that looked like a little lunch box. It had one volume knob and one or two inputs, no pilot light, no fuse, and the cord coming straight out — that was it.
The other is the 10″ model, which is the one I’m reproducing. It had two inputs, no fuse, no pilot light, one tone control, and either one or two volume controls, and two channels — which was something completely new. Each channel ran on one half of the input tube, which is what Fender did until the Blackface era in the ’60s.
It’s not a large amp at only 5-6 watts. The speaker was an unknown Jensen model that had a large, plug-style alnico magnet instead of the horseshoe magnet. I am sure every example varied because the parts all varied — the knobs, transformers, everything. The transformer on the one I am reproducing was a replacement transformer right out of an Allied catalogue made by some unknown manufacturer.
How did you originally come in contact with the amp you decided to reproduce?
I worked with Geoff Fullerton at Fender, who became a good friend of mine. Geoff is George’s son, and was Leo’s personal assistant at G&L for several years. He was a builder and engineer there as well. George’s father used to work at Fender in the wood mill where he ran this huge ripsaw, which George, Geoff and I also ran, so I had become good friends with the family.
George is a wealth of information and a really interesting man to talk to. He has great ideas about how things were done, the reason things were done, and craftsmanship. Even though his guitars were not traditional, the craftsmanship that went into them was impressive. They case-hardened every single one of the screws that went into a guitar, so if you had to repair it, you wouldn’t strip out the threads. Nobody does that kind of thing anymore because it is not cost-effective.
When I talked to George about the amp, he told me about one at the Fullerton Museum owned by Phyllis Fender, Leo’s widow. As he described the amp to me, I decided I wanted to take a look at it. Phyllis said sure, so they pulled it out of the museum for a day. I looked at it, taking every picture and measurement I possibly could. I worked with what I had, but it wasn’t enough to do a reproduction. Later on I was able to go back, and they let me take the chassis down and measure every single component. One thing I couldn’t do was turn it on.
You were able to disassemble this old amp down to the component level?
I was. I took my meters down there and measured everything. Not only did I measure it, but I cross-referenced it to the color code because those resistors and capacitors are 63 years old now and have drifted a lot. One of the things I noticed is that he used many of the components because they were the only things he could get. They weren’t exactly the right value for the position they were in, but he put them in there because they were close enough and that’s what he had.
So, I’m looking at it, and George leans over and says, “You know, you’re the first person who touched the inside of that amp since Leo; you’d better be careful!” Because no one had touched it in all those years, the chassis, being made of steel and zinc plated, was pretty much pure white and powdery — I wasn’t about to leave my fingerprints in it!
Are you going to reproduce the zinc plating and everything?
Oh yeah, but I’m not going to relic it or try to make it look old.
Are there any ground issues getting through the zinc?
Yes, you have to grind away the zinc to get to the steel. And that was one of the things; there’s no circuit board, it’s all point to point, and whatever had to be grounded was run straight to the chassis right there. It was function over form.
What year was the original produced?
I don’t really know if it is one of the earlier or later ones, although I think it is earlier. There is a kind of complex cutaway on the top of the amplifier and a relief on the cord panel that is pretty much decorative. Those two things are also on the 15″ amps that we know were the first ones made. Later examples don’t have either of those features on them, so it is likely an early piece.
Did your experiences at Fender and taking apart the old K&F amp lead to your decision to start an amplifier company?
The K&F thing led directly to my own amplifiers. That amp was amazing and cool, but it was so rudimentary. Boutique amplifiers are becoming a bigger business now and I though it would be interesting to see if I could do my own interpretation of the design.
I was looking at all these beautiful Fender guitars that we were making, the amazing Custom Shop guitars with custom finishes that people wait years for. There are some really nice-looking amplifiers out there, but most of them look like big Tolex suitcases.
It all started me thinking about something that was small enough that you wouldn’t worry about it getting banged around, with the form plus the function, and replicating some of the beauty of the guitar finishes. That really appealed to me – no one was doing that. Finishing it like a guitar, the correct way, is such an art. I wanted to make them so they would match people’s prized instruments.
Over the years, guitars and their finishes have gotten more elaborate, but you aren’t doing that with the new Model 10; it is using simple shape, texture and color for the amplifier, rather than the busy style of many expensive guitars.
I started out spending hours designing cabinets, and the right one just hits you. This one was simple; it effectively gave room for my logo, but with some different elements. I have 1″ radiuses on the corners instead of ¾”, which makes the amp look more spherical, instead of looking like a big square
It gives it a softer, more attractive appearance.
I started the design of the amp with the cabinet, and I got that nice angled swoop to the front, which was simple, not complex — you see some of the amps from the 1940s that had great grilles on them, and some were so complex. Once I got the design for the cabinet down, and I knew that I could physically produce it from a woodworking standpoint, I knew how much space I had, so I could work on the chassis and circuit layout.
Tell me about the Model 10’s circuit and electronic design, and the sounds you were going for.
Well, George introduced me to Bill Sterle who started working at Fender around 1960. Bill is an audio engineer who designed a lot of the original Blackface amps.
Having someone who was there and who designed amps telling me why they made certain decisions is so much different than starting with copies of what Fender, Gibson, or Marshall did. I learned distinction between the amps Bill made and the Fender amps of the 1950s, which were the easiest and simplest designs. The Blackface-era amps were much more complex designs and they were really trying to do different things with the preamps to keep them cleaner.
When Bill was designing things, he stressed that distortion is your enemy — that’s the school of amp design he came from. You have to have the cleanest representation possible. I went to Bill’s house for hours and he would describe everything from tube heater circuit design to what you want to get accomplished in the preamp section, the phase inverter section, and the power section. He told me once you get going on the tone controls, you can go crazy because there are so many variations in tone circuits — not only what you use, but where they are placed.
I wanted to have a 10″ speaker in there. A 10 just has a clarity that you cannot get from an 8″ speaker, and I didn’t want to go as big as a 12. 10s have a really neat sound to them if you find the right one. I knew it was going to be either a small, single-ended design or a cramped, push-pull design. I ended up starting off with a small single-ended design.
So, design wise, you met some of the original guys who developed modern guitar amps, and took it from there, as if you were in that era.
Oh yeah, and every single element that was put in the amp was based on what I was trying to accomplish in the circuit, not based on something I was trying to copy. My initial intention was to make it really straight and clean, without a ton of bells and whistles. It is a single-ended design with a 6V6 power section and a 12AX7 preamp tube.
I looked at a lot of Internet message boards for guys who are building amps, and for players in general, to find out what kind of modifications they were making and what they wanted out of an amp. I tried to keep it really simple and clean, but I did put in a few things that I thought would expand the tone a little more.
Is there a tube rectifier?
No tube rectifier in this. In such a small, single-ended amp that putting one in would be more of a novelty than anything functional. Not putting one in allowed me to use a smaller power transformer and to clean up the power and make it more stable, along with giving me more space to do other things in the chassis. Also, when I went back and talked to Bill Sterle, he threw his hands up and said, “Tube rectifiers are absolutely worthless!” [Laughs]
My impression is that stout, well-built power supplies produce robust tones, especially at high levels. When you are pushing the amp, and you’re not clobbering the power supply, the amp doesn’t freak out as much. If I want a little sag and compression, I use a compressor!
Well, yeah. It’s all relative though, because there is a ratio between the voltage and the current that the plates see. You push harder, sand the plates, and try to draw more current. If the current isn’t there, then there is going to be a difference in the tone.
I started with a solid-state rectifier and that is the only solid-state piece in the amp. In the preamp, I used more of a Blackface preamp design, where I split the 12AX7 in the middle because the amp only has one channel. I do have two inputs on the amp, but one is just hotter than the other.
So there are only two tubes in the amp?
Only two! It’s simple — there is just a treble and a bass control. With all passive tone controls, if you use the control, there is a certain amount of insertion loss, so on bass control I put a switch so you could remove the tone controls from the circuit completely.
The Model 10 has the standard volume, bass and treble controls; then there is the switch. What does it do?
It takes out the negative feedback loop. You turn that off and bypass the tone controls and it will crunch just like an early tweed Champ. Even with only two tubes and three knobs I wanted to be able to have a range so it isn’t just for one style of play; it is an amp that you can play around with and get a cool tone out of.
It has an amazing array of tones for having so few controls.
I have designs of every shape and size, but this is where I wanted to start. In the larger models, I am going to do a 15-20 watt amp, and I may do as much as a 30-35 watt one as well, though I don’t want to come out with a 100 watt monster.
I think people are starting to re-evaluate how much wattage is really needed.
You know, one of the many helpful things I learned from Bill Sterle was how to test everything correctly. Lots of amp makers out there will say, “This is a 5-watt amp,” and that’s what they assume because a similar one was made by Fender, but Fender tested where the wattage comes up just before distortion, on every one, and that’s how we test as well.
The Model 10 puts out almost exactly 5 watts. It has a cathode bias power section and I go through and measure every single one of those tubes and every single output section of each amp to make sure it is right for this design. I don’t want to run these as hot as I possibly can to get every last watt out of them, because it is hard on tubes. I offer NOS tubes as an upgrade, and they are not making any more of them! I run them right in the middle where you get great tone and good longevity.
What tubes have you been using?
Right now I am using Electro-Harmonix preamp tubes and JJ power tubes. I think the JJ 6V6 is a really neat tube. They can handle a lot of plate current, and they sound good.
If somebody wants a Model 10, how long would it take?
I have all of the parts ready to go, but I have a six to eight week lead time on the custom-colored cabinets, including shipping. It takes about four weeks for the paint to be completely finished, because it has to be perfect. It is a guitar finish on the Model 10 and it’s done just like any expensive guitar finish. The amps are built to order, though I may stock certain colors here and there.
It’s exciting to see the founding of a company with such an amazing product. Do you have a price set for the Model 10?
It looks like the Model 10 will be $1050, at least as an initial release price.
You spoke earlier of having several color choices and perhaps some clear finishes on nice wood available.
The cabinets right now are poplar for the solid colors, and ash or alder depending on whether the finish is a blonde or sunburst one, just like a guitar.
If someone asked you what your amp sounds like, what would you say?
Well, what I was trying to achieve was a combination of the tweed Champ and Princeton, combined with a Blackface Champ and Princeton. I wanted to be able to combine all four of those amps together so you could get a really grungy, overdriven, tweed tone or a really clean, clear tone with or without tone controls.
Tell me about the K&F reproduction amp, is that currently in the pipeline?
That amp is 99% done. Because this amp has never been done before, and because the parts are not off-the-shelf parts, everything is different from what is currently available. Everything had to be done from scratch; transformers had to be custom wound, and chassis had to be custom made — and the chassis are not normal dimensions by any means. The tubes are all NOS tubes, because there is no current equivalent to them.
It’s an octal socket preamp tube isn’t it — a large base and pins like a power tube? What tube is that?
It’s a 6SC7 medium mu triode and a 6J5 triode in the preamp section. Each channel gets half of that triode. It’s a pretty low-gain tube actually; it’s not overdriving the preamp circuit a lot like the later 12AX7s often do. There is also a 5Y3 rectifier and a 6V6 output tube. Both input signals merge into a 6J5. Instead of putting one channel with one preamp tube, he made two channels that merged into one preamp tube. There’s one volume control for both channels. The circuit is a lot different than a modern amplifier. Leo was doing it to see if it would be functional, and it was very rudimentary and basic.
The octal preamp tubes give a really unique sound to the amp. They don’t drive it very hard, but it does put out a pretty thunderous crunch when you want. I am keeping it as historically correct as I can, with carbon comp resistors, Mallory 150s as the tone caps, and all cloth-covered wiring, which I don’t do in the Model 10. I am not trying to reproduce a look in the Model 10, but am going for the best possible sound, so I’m using all the best components and wiring by today’s standards.
You selected the components for the Model 10 by listening to them, didn’t you?
Yes, but the K&F is a little different. It’s not wired like you would wire something today; it has series heaters, so you get that hum in there that makes for a unique sound. The only changes I made were necessary for safety. Of course, there is a fuse in this one, along with a 3-prong AC plug. Other than that, it is rudimentary in every way. The tube sockets are spot-welded to the chassis.
Did you actually replicate the spot welds?
Oh yeah! Lots of guys would have riveted the sockets in place, but that was an extra expense, so they spot welded them.
It probably had a terrific ground connection.
It does. I found an original output transformer and power transformer and had Mercury Magnetics reproduce them for me. The speaker was a 10″ Alnico plug-style speaker rated at 40 watts for a 5-watt amp, so it was way over-engineered for the circuit. Most Alnico speakers have a horseshoe shaped magnet, but this one has 2½” donut-shaped magnet. It was also used for higher-end audio and larger-wattage amps. It makes for a really heavy speaker, but it’s really neat. This Weber is the closest to the original speaker that is available.
How much is the K&F reproduction amp going to cost, and when will it be available?
I’m trying so hard to get it finished! I am talking to a paint manufacturer about the wrinkle paint we need, and if that works out we’re in business with getting the K&F out. We should be ready in October at the latest, and the cost will be about $1000.
Playing the Amps
I brought my 1987 hardtail Tom Anderson to Byers‘ shop where I got to play through the first Model 10 off the line and a K&F reproduction prototype. Here is a sample of what I heard:
Model 10
The Model 10 is a beautiful amplifier. If your favorite custom guitar builder built an amp, it would look just like this.
The Model 10 is clear and detailed in the way that only minimal circuit paths can be. Set clean, with the tone controls engaged and the feedback loop in, the highs and lows are well-balanced, the tone circuits do what you wish they would, and the result is a sound that makes you want to play more. Turn off the feedback loop and things get woollier and more tweed-like. Switch off the tone controls and the amp gets a more aggressive, throaty attitude going.
K&F Reproduction
The K&F reproduction amp is totally different from the Model 10 and totally different from almost anything I have ever heard. I can almost hear Charlie Christian playing one and I suspect that today’s players will find musical uses for this tone. The K&F reproduction is very big and a bit wooly-sounding, yet not muffled or dull at all. It gets pretty powerful sounding when you push it hard.
Source: https://mercurymagnetics.com/pages/news/PremierGuitar/PremierG-10.htm
GIBSON EH150 12H
The Category 5 Tempest and 1900 brew up a storm of blues and rock built for the gigging musician.
Category 5 is built on a partnership between Don Ritter and Steve Scott that began as a way to make amplifiers and raise money (and awareness) for charity at the same time. The focus was first on charities providing relief for natural disaster victims (of the Asian tsunami and hurricanes Katrina and Rita), thus the names of the company and its amplifiers. As it has grown, so has the scope of both the products and the philanthropy, which supports an expanding list of worthy causes from Feed the Children and Voice of the Wetlands to the “Blues in the Schools” program, and Blue Star Connection, which provides musical instruments to children with life-threatening illnesses.
This is worthy of mention not only because it exemplifies the principle that you do well by doing right, but also because Cat 5’s amplifiers demonstrate the virtues of doing it right from the get-go. The designs are built on the notion that it’s the players, not the builders, who should determine what qualities an amp has. The touring pros and other players Ritter and Scott set out to satisfy needed tough, overbuilt cabinets and chassis that could handle life on the road; they needed scalable power output to achieve the same tone from the same amp at the right volume for any venue; and they needed amps that would be easily coaxed into giving up outstanding tones. In other words, the design principle and the philanthropic principle are really the same principle: try to give people what they need.
Category 5 started by making waves on the blues scene, providing back line for several festivals (where they were often asked to sell their amps right off the stage), and in a short time they’ve gathered a truly impressive list of artists. The number of signature offerings and approved charities continues to increase. If it’s not a signature model you’re after, there are nine other models — including these two — to choose from.
They also offer a variety of cabinet configurations. The one that arrived with these amps was a large, angle front, closed back 2×12, made from eleven-ply Baltic birch. It is only a tad smaller than a standard 4×12, and it’s enough to handle almost every application. Its Celestion G12H Heritage speakers provided a surprisingly generous low end with depth and control for both amps.
Each Cat 5 amp comes with a goodie bag that includes a vinyl cover, a full set of extra tubes and fuses, and Analysis Plus oval speaker cables.
The Tempest
In keeping with the convention, both of our review amps are named for storms. All of the models except the Tempest are named for historical storms; the Tempest, if you remember your Shakespeare, was a magical storm sent by Prospero to daze and confuse his rivals.
The 45-watt, cathode-biased, dual EL34-powered Tempest is a touch flashier than the 1900, with a big, hurricane-shaped “5” logo, vinyl covering and basket weave grille cloth separated by diagonal silver piping, and controls located at the top of the cabinet. Channel one has only a volume and a single Tone control, while channel two provides volume and 3-band EQ controls. Global fold back reverb, power scaling, and a single On/Off/Standby switch with neon indicator complete the control set.
The back panel has some more modern amp features, like an effects loop and a mid-boost switch for channel 2, a line out jack with line level control (you’ll need to run it through a simulated speaker load before going into a board), and footswitch control of the reverb and boost.
Plugging In
Instead of the usual “clean” and “dirty” channels, Cat 5’s dual-channel amps, like the Tempest, offer two different tonal signatures, both of which go from clean to crunch with just the combination of amp and guitar volume knobs. Power scaling makes the overall volume adjustable. The idea is to have two distinct amps in one head — in this case a JTM45-inspired channel one, and a Plexi-style voicing for channel two. Although they’re not completely different, they are distinct.
Using a few different test guitars, a Gibson LP Studio with Alnico V Burstbuckers, a Gibson LP BFG with a Zebra Burstbucker 3 in the bridge and P-90 in the neck, and my Fender Contemporary Telecaster with stock pickups, I found that channel one does the Marshall-like voicing, but somewhat softer. It has good response and excellent definition. With the volume up all the way, this channel has greater clarity and presence at the top end than channel two, as well as smoother distortion. It cuts very nicely, and can be coaxed into giving up the “Beano” tone with a good, transparent boost.
Channel 2 seems to have more headroom, and much more depth and body up through the mids, with a warmer sustain. To be honest, the big, beefy cleans and creamy top end make it a great blues amp, but channel two wasn’t as much of a thrill ride as I’d hoped, and the mid-boost switch didn’t seem to give it the kick it needed. Using the two Les Pauls, the crunch could’ve been tighter, and at high volume there was some loss of definition in the middle. I’m sure this wasn’t all the amp’s fault, as it seems to prefer vintage-style pickups with lower output. The Burstbucker 3 in particular bit in too hard, audibly reducing the dynamic range and smoothness.
For the final test, I used an A/B/Y box to jumper the two channels. Yowza! The best of both channels came through with energy and conviction. Easily the best tone in the box. The bridge pickup on my Tele did a terrific “icepick” tone on this setting, and the neck pickup was all creamy blues, but with more oomph than I’m used to hearing from it. Like the other Cat 5 amps, the Tempest uses high-quality components from companies like Analysis Plus, Mercury Magnetics, SoZo, Accutronics, etc. — you get the picture. This amp is going to be with you for a while.
As Tested $2995 — Category 5 — category5amps.com
Buy if…
you’re looking for a soulful, tone-heavy amp that’s tailor made for taking your blues on the road.
Skip if…
you’re not that into the blues… or the road.
Rating… 
Source: https://mercurymagnetics.com/pages/news/PremierGuitar/PremierG-13.htm
GA-79RVT — #TF-88-O — single 8Ω secondary — 2 3/8″ mounting centers
*This transformer is also used in the Gibson GA83-S and GA88-S amps
GA-79RVT — #TF-88-O — single 8Ω secondary — 2 3/8″ mounting centers
*This transformer is also used in the Gibson GA83-S and GA88-S amps
THE CREW AT 65 AMPS HAS A REPUTATION for putting considerable R&D sweat into every new amp design before it leaves the maker’s Los Angeles, California, headquarters. The Lil’ Elvis has, in the broad sense, been in development even longer than most — a stately 48 years or so, if you take into account its roots in an odd little combo owned by Vox collector and author Jim Elyea, one that Vox designer Dick Denney had built as his own personal amp, but which never went into production. Having seriously dug this prototype’s overdriven sound, 65 Amps’ Dan Boul and Peter Stroud set about tidying up the circuit, giving it a usable clean voice and a much broader vocabulary, and making it into a versatile — yet still quite simple — club-gig and studio amp for the contemporary tone fiend. The result is 65’s most diminutive offering yet, both in physical stature and output level, but as we shall see, the stated “clean output” of 12 watts can be deceiving, and this isn’t the mere bedroom brawler that such a rating might imply.
The format hints at a blend of American and British small-amp templates: from this side of the pond, a quirky split-phase inverter similar to that of Fender’s Princeton Reverb and a “bias wiggler” tube tremolo circuit not unlike that used by some Gibson and Ampeg models — from the other side of the pond, the dual EL84 output tube complement and EZ81 tube rectifier. And from California circa 2009, plenty of fresh thinking in the form of the Bump and Master Voltage circuits and the squat, chunky cab, as well as the considerable effort that went into transformer design (with Mercury Magnetics), grounding and filtering topologies, and noise reduction techniques. The Lil’ Elvis is also a somewhat simpler affair than other 65 products, and comes in at a little less coin as a result. Its Bump feature is fixed — rather than having its own Tone and Level controls like the one on the SoHo and Stone Pony — though it is footswitchable (from a pedal that also includes a stomp button for the tremolo), and EQ is limited to a single Tone control. There’s also an enigmatic Smooth switch that has no noticeable affect on clean settings, but does exactly as it says when you crank the amp up, by engaging a circuit that keeps the grid from lifting up from ground when you go into heavy distortion, thereby reducing crossover distortion at the output stage. The final control on the panel, labeled Master, actually governs a proprietary “master-voltage” circuit that lowers the preamp and power tubes’ output levels while retaining filament voltage and, hence, is purported to preserve tonal vocabulary and playing feel.
The stout 21″ wide x 18 high ” x 11.5″ deep cab wears the traditional 65 Amps two-tone cosmetics with aluminum front-edge cooling vents, and houses a single Celestion G12H-30 speaker. Inside, the workmanship lives up to everything I’ve come to expect from this high-end maker, offering a superb example of handcrafted tube amp manufacture. Of the whole package as it sits, my only minor gripe might be that it’s tricky to change the horizontally mounted tubes, requiring a blind grope inside the cab, but it’s easy enough flip the whole chassis outward, panel still attached, to do the job more carefully. Oh, and why “Lil’ Elvis”? In Boule’s own words: “No matter how small you make Elvis, he still rocks.”
I tested the Lil’ Elvis with a Fender Telecaster, a Collings 290 with Lollar P90s, and a Gibson SG with humbuckers. Played clean, it issued classic blackface-Fender-style tones, with piano-like lows and silky highs, with good headroom up to higher Volume settings than I would have expected. Cranked up, this sonic template segues into a surprisingly convincing Marshall half-stack impersonation. There’s a juicy midrange that isn’t over-baked, surprisingly solid low-end thump, and velvety smooth highs that really help your lead playing to soar — especially with the Smooth switch engaged. Stomping on Bump makes everything thicker and bigger, enabling serious rock lead and rhythm work alike from this deceptive little amp. And although it would be nice to be able to set the amount of extra boost that this feature introduces, it’s still a groovy option. The Master control works as it should, retaining body and character as you lower the output level, but it does increase the depth of your given tremolo Intensity setting, an unexpected quirk, but one that’s not too problematic given that you’ll most likely adjust it and leave it — and likewise set Speed and Intensity to taste — before you launch into playing. For its own part, this output-bias modulating tremolo circuit is a real sweetie, adding rich, chewy, chop to your sound and attaining a sense of depth and vibe at higher Intensity settings that must be heard to be appreciated.
Containing a few nods to classic amps of the early ’60s, but tied together with a lot of original design work, Lil’ Elvis is one chunky bundle of surprises. This top-notch tone machine is surprisingly versatile despite its simplicity, and it sounds way bigger and badder than you’d ever imagine 12 watts could provide. So if you’re gunning for a low-power amp that wields some serious mojo, Lil’ Elvis is the ass-kicker you’ve been waiting for.
SPECS:
CONTACT 65 Amps, (818) 760-5089, 65amps.com
MODEL Lil’ Elvis
PRICE $2,150 retail/street price N/A
CHANNELS One
CONTROLS Volume, Tone, Depth, Speed, Master, Smooth switch, Bump switch
POWER 12 watts
TUBES Three 12AX7 preamp tubes, two EL84 output tubes, one EZ81 rectifier
EXTRAS Series effects loop, two-button footswitch jack, dual speaker outs, switch for 8Ω & 16Ω impedance
SPEAKER Celestion G12H-30 (16Ω)
WEIGHT 49 lbs
KUDOS Great build quality. First-class clean and overdrive tones. Surprising versatility.
CONCERNS Tubes are tricky to change without removing chassis; tremolo strength increases as Master Voltage is decreased.
Source: https://mercurymagnetics.com/pages/news/GuitarPlayer/GPDec09.htm
Decades ago, practice amps were effectively no-frills versions of their bigger brothers. Even so, those little amps of yesteryear became something magical in the studio. From Jimmy Page and his Supro to Joe Walsh and his Fender Champ, getting big sounds from little amps became the stuff of legend and a go-to approach for recording. Crimsontone Amplifiers embraces this philosophy in a big way—only two of the seven amps the company offers are 20 watts or more. Their newest amp—the 4-watt SE Mini—is a testament to the power of small and a cool nod to the role of low-wattage amps in the history of rock ’n’ roll.
In the Court of the Crimson
At just 7.5 pounds, the SE Mini certainly lives up to its name. The cabinet is covered in a tough red tweed fabric, and it features a sporty aluminum handle for easy transporting to the studio—or a gig in the park for that matter. Crimsontone didn’t design the SE Mini with gimmicks in mind either, which is evident in the simple feature set. It has just four controls—Gain, Tone, and Master knobs, along with a tiny Gain Boost switch.
The single-ended, all-tube head is powered by a Sovtek EL84 coupled to a JJ ECC803 preamp tube and a Mercury Magnetics GA5-P power transformer for a maximum of four watts. The GA5-P is part of Mercury Magnetics’ fantastic Toneclone Plus line, which is stocked with the company’s replicas of famous power transformers from the past. In this case, it’s a faithful reproduction of the transformer in Gibson’s 1950s Les Paul Jr. combos. I was pleased to see that the output transformer was also a Mercury Magnetics model, an FTCO-M that replicates the units in Fender’s Tweed Champ amplifiers of yore.
The SE Mini doesn’t rely on modern circuit design, but instead forgoes current technologies for a traditional, handwired, point-to-point circuit. Upon pulling out the adorably small chassis, I was treated to the sight of tidy wiring held together with clean solder joints and tight mounting. And the Components—F&T filter caps, Alpha pots, Orange Drop capacitors, carbon-comp resistors, two Xicon power resistors, and a Cliff input jack—are all top-of-the-line.
Good Things … Small Packages
Crimsontone touts the SE Mini as a practice amplifier, but it excels at hitting tones in the ’60s classic-rock vein. With a Fender 60th Anniversary Telecaster and a feed to the two 12″ speakers in a Fender Twin Reverb reissue, the Crimsontone’s clean mode belted out seriously raw, garage-rhythm jangle with a dash of classic Neil Young sting thrown in. The highs are crisp and brash, with tight lows and a gritty midrange. With a Gibson Les Paul Studio, the amp accentuated the midrange and softened highs, but the amp still retained its bold essence, staying tight in the low end and having a nice, even sag. It’s not a sound for everybody, but it speaks in the raw, unadulterated tones of no-holds-barred slingers of the first classic heavy rock era.
It’s worth noting that, while the SE Mini kicks with James Gang-worthy tones, I did have to really work with my picking hand to squeeze any real dynamics out of it. That said, that’s not uncommon with most small-wattage amps, and it certainly doesn’t mean that the amp isn’t touch sensitive. But if you’re used to using a big Marshall to get your ’70s tones, the SE Mini will feel like an entirely different animal. The amp doesn’t have excessive gain or saturation to hide behind, so it assures that you hear every single mistake. The sweet sounds that come as a trade-off are well worth it, though.
This Dog Bites
Getting the most meat and bite out of the SE Mini requires careful adjustment of the Gain and Master knobs. With the Gain Boost switch off, not much grit is available from the Gain control. Rather, it acted more like a voicing control, altering the feeling and response of the tone. Most master-volume tube amps have a gain structure that changes from tighter and crisper to warmer and spongier as you increase the Gain. Without the boost on, the Gain control on the SE Mini reacts the same way, but without adding huge amounts of saturation. Kicking in the Gain Boost adds a dose of rage to the tone, and I thoroughly enjoyed playing quick double-stops and soaring country bends with the SE Mini’s overdrive-infused, high-midrange snap.
Predictably, the boost kicks up the volume a few decibels, too. And I discovered by lowering my guitar’s Volume knob just how well the amp cleans up at even the dirtiest settings. The Gain Boost adds noticeable touch sensitivity, too. I got one of my favorite tones by dropping the Telecaster’s Volume down a quarter of the way and letting my picking-hand attack determine the amount of overdrive.
If you’re looking for more aggressive tones, it also pays to keep the Master at or near its highest levels. At practice-amp volume levels, the Telecaster sounded a little thin, and understandably so—I wasn’t pushing the single EL84 enough until I moved the Master to 3 o’clock, where there was a considerable volume jump. The sweet spot on the SE Mini’s Master is just a little higher, where it retains just the right amount of definition, while maintaining ample punch. Set the Master there and use the Gain control to set the flavor of the attack, and you’ll find a load of tone variation at your fingertips. Working within this range helped me keep the Tele’s bite under control and let the raw nature of the amp’s voicing shine through.
The Verdict
Four watts may not be the right recipe for tearing the paint off walls, but the SE Mini uses a well-designed circuit and quality components to sound much bigger than it looks— especially with a few 12″ speakers at the receiving end of its signal. Crimsontone’s SE Mini is a great choice for lovers of dirty, jangly rock guitar tones. But, like tube practice amps of yesteryear that needed to be driven and played hard to achieve their fullest tonal potential, it can require a more dynamic and forceful touch to tap into its inherent dynamics. Still, there’s nothing quite like a healthy, low-watt tube amp cranked to high heaven for creating sweet, raw, rowdy sounds. In that musical category, the SE Mini is a hit.
Buy if…
you’re a fan of dirty, to-the-point guitar tones at reasonable volumes.
Skip if…
you need to be heard over a drummer or can’t abide bone-simple feature sets.
Rating…
Street $799 – Crimsontone Amplifiers – crimsontone.com
Source: https://www.premierguitar.com/articles/Crimsontone_SE_Mini_Amp_Review
We told this was coming.. Tes, when readers ask us to review something, we do our best to respond, and thanks to RedPlate founder Henry Heistand, we received two RedPlates for review. We’ll start this episode by telling you that Henry Heistand appears to be a very clever fellow who is not working in the shadows of that past, which is to say that he builds feature-rich amplifiers that in no way pretend to be vintage knock-offs. Play a RedPlate and you’re firmly treading in the present, rather than mining tone out of a dusty box built by a dead man (or woman—sorry Lily). And that’s fine. There is certainly ample space in these pages for the living, and RedPlates are in fact very lively tools indeed. We asked Henry to give us a glimpse into his background and motivation, and our reviews of the TweedyVerb and BlackVerb follow….
TQR: How and when did you initially become involved in electronics and amplification?
HH: Starting around age 12 playing to the radio and jamming with friends, my first build attempt was a speaker cabinet made out of ½ plywood and covered with yellow carpeting. It had a leopard (spotted) grill cloth and contained 6 speakers recycled from various old TVs and stereos. My first real amp repair was replacing a screen resistor in a Fender Bassman in 1970. I went to college for a year and then played guitar full time until 1979 when I attended electronics school (they still taught tubes). To pay for school I got a part time job at a church organ repair shop that had a “combo” repair department and still played in club bands on weekends. Attending electronics school in the morning and repairing gear in the afternoons was a great way to instantly translate the classroom to the real world. Compared to the tube TVs and tube broadcast transmitters, the tube musical amplifiers were relatively simple. Besides Fender and Marshall, tube amps by Sunn, Ampeg, Gibson, West, Park, Hiwatt, Sound City and all the Supro/Kalamazoo/Dan Electro stuff. If I only had a nickel for every good tube I tossed in the trash back then. Many of those same companies had solid-state amps too along with companies like Acoustic, Kustom, Peavey, Randall, Lab, SG and Roland. It seems like the ’70s was the golden era of guitar amp designers. Although most tube amps have a similar topology, the differences between brands in those days ranged from truly innovative to laughable. On a few occasions when a solid-state repair would come in that was totally fubar, one of the church organ repair guys would show me how to design a new circuit right over the top of the problem area, teaching me the value of having a few simple circuit designs at the ready for emergencies. In late ’82 I got a career job in the computer field, and by ’86 purchased the part of the church organ repair shop that repaired the “combo” gear. The new company was named Music Mechanix and kept the warranty contracts with all the majors for amps, keyboards and P.A.s.
TQR: As you became more familiar with various amp designs of the past, what were your favorites and why?
HH: Thinking back to the tonal memories accumulated during those years spent repairing amps, the most musical of all of them were probably the early ’60s Fender tube amps. In addition to repairs, Music Mechanix did all the popular mods of the day (anyone remember the original Train Wreck Mod pages for Fenders?), many times we would redo almost everything inside but keeping the exterior unchanged. Most of my playing back then was strictly radio cover songs so the quest was always to find the one amp that could imitate everything. Music Mechanix was continuing the warranty station status from the previous owner (established in the ’50s) so every original manufacturer’s amplifier schematic ever released was available as a reference source, residing in 16 large file cabinets. On the side, I kept a little notebook of circuits and mods of interest to use as building blocks.
TQR: Can you describe the lasting impressions created by your study of the experiences with classic amps that have most affected your own design philosophy and preferences?
HH: As a service to friends and regular customers Music Mechanix would take a classic amp (at the time it was easy to get something like a used Bassman for $100) and do Frankenstein amps that were Fender this, Marshall that, with a sprinkling of Vox and Ampeg thrown in depending on the customer’s needs. On the weekends I was doing gigs using a pair of modified Ampeg VT-40s in stereo until somehow I ended up with a Mesa Boogie S.O.B. that had a really innovative phase inverter section controlled by a “LIMIT” knob. A bizarre variation of a PI section’s constant current source, the circuit was not in the RCA manual or on any other schematic. It sparked something in me and from hen on I started doing creative amp mods that were not copies of things I had seen on schematics.
TQR: When did you first begin to sketch out the concept for RedPlate amps, and what did you want to accomplish that would be unique and different?
HH: I had always been fascinated with “sleeper” amps that looked small but sounded big. After selling the repair business I used my free time to do a lot of experimentation on point-to-point builds in a Fender Camp sized chassis, eventually working out how to do a 7 tube, large transformer build in a Champ chassis without noise or oscillation. My favorite guitar tones were the recorded sounds of the Mesa Boogie/Dumble ODS type amps (even before I even knew what a Dumble amp was). A clean singing tone with a hint of character that sustains and blooms is my idea of the ultimate tone and the design goal of all the RedPlate models.
TQR: Can you briefly describe the unique features and differences among the current line of RedPlate models?
HH: RedPlate probably has too many models because we treat the sections as modular building blocks. We start with one of the 3 chassis sizes:
CH1. 15” width with four 9 pin sockets and two 8 pin sockets, transformers up to the 50 watt size.
CH2: 17” width with six 9 pin sockets and two 8 pin sockets, transformers up to 80 watt size.
CH3: 19” width with five 9 pin sockets and four 8 pin sockets, transformers up to 160 watts
Then we use different combinations of the building blocks with the only limitation being the number of controls (physical knob space) and the number of tube sockets available. Building blocks currently in use:
BB1. PREAMP1—Tweed—A single tone knob preamp (Tweed style).
BB2. PREAMP2—Blackface—A Treble, Middle, Bass Preamp (Blackface style).
BB3. DRIVE1—A three knob overdrive section (Gain, Drive, and Level).
BB4. DRIVE2—A six knob overdrive section (Gain, Drive, Level, Treble, Middle and Bass).
BB5. REVERB—A single knob tube reverb with medium decay tank.
BB6. EFFECTS LOOP—A fully buffered serial loop, return level is the master volume.
BB7. PHASE INVERTER—Standard Long Tail pair, very similar to the early ’60s designs.
BB8. POWER AMP #1—40 watts cathode bias (6L6GC).
BB9. POWER AMP #2—50 watts fixed bias/40 watts cathode bias (6V6GC)
BB10. POWER AMP #3—80 watts fixed bias (KT-88).
BB11. POWER AMP #4—45 watts fixed bias/18 watts cathode bias (6V6GTA)
BB12. POWER AMP #5—100 watts fixed/50 watts fixed (6L6GC).
TQR: Both of our review amps are loaded with Warehouse speakers from Kentucky, which we have reviewed before. How extensive are your evaluations of various speakers when creating a new model? Does the same process apply with transformers, tubes or other components?
HH: The current lineup is using WGS Retro 30, WGS British Lead 80 and Eminence Swamp Thang speakers in the combo amps. The decision to use these was based on side-by-side comparisons with other brands (an ongoing process).
Tube selection is mostly based on reliability (as long as the tone is still there). The current production amps use Svetlana 6L6GC, SovTek 12AX7LP (PI tube), and Electro Harmonix 6V6GTA and 12AX7s (preamp).
Selecting individual signal path components is more difficult because side-by-side comparisons can be misleading (no 2 amps are exactly alike). The signal path in current production amps use PS series Orange Drop capacitors and carbon film resistors based on low noise and musical warmth in the tone. RedPlate Amps has a good relationship with Mercury Magnetics and I like to use their transformers in most models.
TQR: How does the half power switch function in your amps, as well as the “mode” control and various voicing controls?
HH: Depending on the output section, 3 methods are used:
1. 6L6GC 100 watt/50 watt—The switch lifts two of the four tubes by 10K so they are effectively out of the circuit yet the impedance selection is still valid.
2. 6V6GTA 45 watt/18 watt—Full power runs two of the tube in cathode bias and two in fixed bias, the switch lifts the fixed bias tubes by 10K to effectively remove them without changing the output impedance.
3. 17 Watt (Hi/Lower)—This switch just lowers the voltage to the phase inverter tube so the amp breaks up sooner. There are two different styles of mode switches. On the Tweed style preamps the 6 position mode regressively reduces midrange and preamp output to imitate a Blackface style amp. On the Blackface style preamp the 6 position mode switch progressively fattens the midrange to imitate a Tweed style amp. Most of the models also include a Humbucking/single coil switch to set the amount of bass gain in the input stage.
TQR: How much individual customization or voicing do you offer for specific models when working with an artist?
HH: Unlimited customization is available, although most of the professionals that use RedPlate Amps are content playing standard models.
TQR: We noticed that you include the owner’s name on the back panel, correct? A nice touch…
HH: Yeah, the front and rear panels are done in-house, we could even put pictures of your dog on there.
TQR: What do you want to accomplish in the future? New models?
HH: “Amps that sing” being every guitar player! Going forward, curiosity and customer feedback will continue to drive the evolution of current designs and the development of new designs. For example, there will be a “shredder” amp in the near future (The ShredPlate) and possibly a bass amp. As RedPlate continues to gain name recognition with the music industry, models like the BlackVerb, MagicDust and TweedyVerb will hopefully be taken for granted as standard amplifier types.
The front and rear panels on the BlackVerb reveal an impressive array of controls, push/pull-knobs and switched pots. In fact, the printed operation guide includes a signal path diagram on the front page with a welcoming invitation to skip an in-depth review of the manual and just set all the knobs at 12 noon and play, which we did, consulting the manual as needed as we spent more time with the amp. So, is the BlackVerb too complicated for you “plug & play” guys? Not really, but the control panel is best reviewed in sections. You’re essentially working with a clean preamp circuit and a Drive section that includes Gain, Drive and Level controls for variable levels of distortion overdriven tones, but there are still many more additional tweakable features lurking within…
The first control adjacent to the single front input jack is the miniature Bright switch toggle with the center position OFF, Down producing the sound of “new strings” (an accurate description we might add), and Up rendering a brighter tone that will be familiar to those of you with a Fender Blackface amp with bright switch. We usually use the bright switch to put a little extra shimmer and spank on humbucking pickups, or neck pickups on single coils.
The Volume control includes a pull switch to engage a midrange boost that increases upper mids. The Middle control does what you’d expect, with a pull switch for a “Deep” setting that scoops mids and boosts bass frequencies—an excellent change-up for clean tones. The Bass control handles low end quite well, and it can be clicked OFF to be removed from the tone stack. Try that with a neck pickup and it produces the odd and very different EQ found in some old Valco and Gibson amps.
The Mod Selector is a 6-position rotary EQ switch that gradually produces a fatter, thicker tone as you rotate left to right from the “Funk” setting, to “Normal” and “Fat” (tweed). All this pulling and turning may sound complicated, but you’ll have it thoroughly digested in 5 minutes, and most importantly, these extra EQ controls expand the tonal capabilities of the BlackVerb in a clever and creative way that really is worth using and exploring. We have bitched about such bells and whistles on other amps having limited value, but no such questionable affectations plague the BlackVerb. Like we said, Henry is a clever fellow. On the Drive section…
This is where you mine and manage overdriven tones and distortion. The Gain control can be bypassed by clicking fully left, otherwise, you’re setting the amount of signal being sent to the first gain stage, which produces variable levels of smooth growl and grunt. The Drive control further ramps up distortion through two gain stages, and a pull switch on the knob serves as an afterburner for maximum burn and rip. At this point you will be channeling Metallica at full husky, so hide the dog. The Level control sets the output volume for this section, resulting in a progressively bigger, thicker, bolder voice. Of course, the big selling point for the BlackVerb is how all of your clean, moderately busted up and filthy dirty tones can be deftly tweaked and the volume managed with the Volume and Master volume controls. At the full power setting, you really can get this thing to sound like a 100 watt high gain amp on “7” at low decibel levels suitable for home recording and friendlier sound pressure levels.
The reverb control is what it is, and you can turn it off fully left and it’s out of the circuit. The Presence control is described as using “global negative feedback to remove low frequencies which frees up bandwidth for more midrange and highs,” and it can also be turned off when rotated fully left. Frankly, the appeal of this control escaped us, but we can imagine how it might be useful in a live situation where you may want to avoid too much low end muddying up the mix with bass and drums. The Master volume works very well without producing the dreaded master volume/low volume faux zizzz when you’re trying to light a fire at low volume levels.
One of our favorite features is the 50 watt/40 watt switch on the back panel that changes the boas from fixed to cathode for a completely different feel. With the 40 watt cathode biased setting you can also change the 6L6 output tubes to 6V6s, transforming the BlackVerb into an 18 watt cathode biased flame thrower, or bypassing the Gain section for a more tweedy character and voice. The Hi/Lo power switch changes the voltage on the input stage and the threshold for clean headroom.
The back panel Smooth switch is just that, adding slight compression in the clean preamp, and the Humbucker/Single Coil setting sets the amount of bass gain in the input stage, relieving you of perhaps resetting EQ when switching from single coils to humbuckers.
Additional utilitarian features on the back panel include a handy bias adjustment and test point, speaker impedance selector, main and extension speaker jacks, FX send and return, and footswitch jack. The footswitch gives you the capability to get in and out of the Tweed, Drive and Boost circuits. Tweed boosts upper mids while lifting the midrange control on the front panel for maximum push in the frequencies where the guitar really lies on stage. Drive engages the Drive feature, bypassing it when off at the footswitch. Boost makes everything sound bigger with a partial tone stack lift.
And now for the bottom line…. It seems to us that the intention of the BlackVerb is to be as tonefully versatile as a 1×12 combo amp can possibly be whether you are playing small clubs, bigger rooms or wide open outdoor stages. You could play nothing but smooth, clean jazz through this amp without ever venturing into the gain stages and be perfectly happy. Or you could do nothing but feast off the considerable gain and distortion lurking in the heart of the BlackVerb and be equally happy. Most gigging musicians want to range between such extremes living somewhere in the middle, and you can do that, too. Like most feature-rich amplifiers, you’ll find certain favorite settings that will be revisited with specific guitars, and after a few days you’ll have no trouble quickly accessing those settings, although the control panel is a bit difficult to read until you no longer need to read it at all.
The standard Warehouse Retro 30 speaker is a brighter version of the Veteran 30 we have favorably reviewed in the past. Given the considerable range of overdrive and distortion available in the BlackVerb, the Retro 30’s clear, articulate character and exceptional capacity to handle low frequencies makes it an excellent choice for this amplifier. Even at extreme gain and drive settings, the BlackVerb produces a rich and musical burn that does not mask or obscure essential overtones and harmonics. The clean tones are equally strong, powerful and clear, and the amp will nimbly spill into overdrive played clean at higher volume levels that can be managed with the volume on the guitar. The BlackVerb impressed with its ability to embody many different styles of amplifiers in one compact box, limited only by your capacity for experimentation and your imagination. Imagine that.
We were particularly anxious to experience the TweedyVerb because it seems to fit the power and volume requirements of so many players today, and it is a very straightforward and versatile 1×12 combo that is a breeze to hump to the next gig. Got your attention there, did we? We finally figured out why vintage blackface Pro Reverb amps have remained relatively underpriced… just pick one up.
The TweedyVerb is a cathode biased dual 6L6 amp with reverb, loaded with an 80 watt Warehouse British Lead 12” speaker. You won’t find a bad tone in this amp, and the controls are very intuitive, delivering outstanding “blackface,” “brown” and “tweed” tones via a 6-position Mode switch. The Bright switch is identical to the BlackVerb (you’ll love the “new strings” setting), with a single Volume control, simple Gain control, and a Tone control that can be clicked off fully left to bypass the tone stack for a very heavy and thick does of overdriven tones with excellent dynamic feel and touch sensitivity. The spring reverb is good—delivered form an original new old stock Accutronics pan made by Cary, IL, and the Presence control is identical to the BlackVerb, using global negative feedback to remove low frequencies and emphasize mids and highs. It also seems to decrease volume and gain, best used in our opinion for clean tones.
The 40 watt/17 watt switch on the back panel changes the voltage on the phase inverter. We preferred the sound and girth of the 40 watt setting, which still allows plenty of room for managing volume and variable distortion with the Gain and Volume controls, but the 17 watt setting is fine, too for close quarters. 6V6 power tubes can also be used at this setting without re-biasing for lower power output and volume. A footswitch is included to access both the fat Tweed setting on the Mode switch on the fly, and the Boost function, which acts as a tone stack bypass. Despite its compact size and relatively light weight, the TweedyVerb is a big-sounding amp that produces outstanding clean tones at usable stage volume, yet it can also be gradually pushed into the familiar sound of a Deluxe Reverb on “6” or even a vintage Marshall head at higher volume and gain settings. It’s a right fair chameleon, this one.
The Warehouse 80 watt British Lead 12 gracefully handles the power output of the TweedyVerb with excellent clarity, sold bass, vivid mids and a sweet and chimey top end. Like the BlackVerb, the TweedyVerb offers the sound and feel of several distinctively different amps in one box via the Mode switch, and we liked them all, from the rough and tumble Tweed, the slightly less raucous, smooth upper mid voice of the Brow, and the more scooped, open and airy Black settings. Both RedPlate models reviewed here clearly share the same DNA, which is to say that they possess a remarkably rich and music character, whether you choose to stroke big clean tones through them or dial up a tone that would make Billy Gibbons proud. Douse that light, and Quest forth….
GA-20 — 4, 8 & 16Ω taps — use with EL34s
GA-40T — TF 60P — Please confirm mounting style before ordering
GA45-RVT
GA-20-T — 120V, 220V, 230V & 240V primary — ’60s. Please confirm mounting style before ordering
GA-8T — 220V, 230V & 240V primary — Please confirm mounting style before ordering
GA-8T — Please confirm mounting style before ordering
GA-20-T. Please confirm mounting style before ordering
GA-20. Please confirm mounting style before ordering
GA-25 RVT — Please confirm mounting style before ordering
GA-5 — 5V winding — no CT on 6.3V winding — 220V, 230V & 240V primary taps — Please confirm mounting style before ordering
GA-45RVT — Please confirm mounting style before ordering
BR1 — #138622 — #710-40213A — late ’40s. Mounting Styles vary – Please contact us before placing your order.
Goldtone GA15 reissue — Drop-in Upgrade! Please confirm mounting style before ordering
GA17 — Original PT # TF 105 P
Flat mount, bolt hole spacing is 2″ x 2 1/2″
GA-5 — no 5V winding — 220V, 230V & 240V primary — Please confirm mounting style before ordering
GA20-RVT — Original PT # TF 105 P
Flat mount, bolt hole spacing is 2″ x 2 1/2″
EH-125 — late ’30s & ’40s — Please confirm mounting style before ordering
GA-75 — Crestline amp
GA-70 — Country & Western amp
GA-5 Skylark — 5V winding. Please confirm mounting style before ordering
GA-40RVT & GA-42RVT (Reissue) — 4, 8 & 16 Ohm taps — Upgrade!
By Design
Designed to produce a bigger and bolder flavor of the great ’60s American amps with more tonal and modern gain options, the Tupelo pushes 20 watts through a pair of 6V6s, three 12AX7s, and a solid state rectifier. The combo is made of 1/2 blind dovetail-jointed Baltic birch and covered in the classic and classy 65Amps black and tan color scheme with gold piping and basket weave-like grille cloth. Like in the Lil’ Elvis, the speaker of choice is a Celestion G12H-30. Front panel controls from left to right are Volume, Smooth switch, Tone, Bump switch, Intensity, Speed, and Master. The rear panel offers a passive effects loop, two-button footswitch jack, dual speaker outs, an 8/16-ohm impedance switch, and IEC power cord input. The power section has been optimized for 6V6s and includes newly designed Mercury Magnetics iron to maximize the tone. The transformers are big and beefy — cool!
Peaking inside the beautifully designed and cleanly laid out chassis, you can see a mix of NOS carbon comp and metal film resistors as well as a selection of Sozo caps. According to 65Amps, they use the carbon comps in the tonal paths and the metal film resistors where stability is critical. The Sozo caps are also a mix of modern and vintage styles. With all of these additions I was ready to get right to it and check out what the Tupelo had to offer, so it was time to plug in.
Big American
I won’t lie — I’ve heard the clips of [65Amps co-founder and Sheryl Crow guitarist] Peter Stroud playing through the Tupelo and was blown away with that big, open jangle and gorgeous, chimey distortion, so I was expecting a lot. First up was my standard litmus test of a 2003 Gibson Murphy Les Paul R8. With the controls all set at about the halfway mark and the tremolo off, the amp kicked my ass right out of the gate. The Les Paul didn’t have the same chime as Peter’s Elliot guitar but I’d expect that from the different guitars. The tone was thick and chewy with a bold and wide bottom end and a killer crunch that had just enough top without being brittle. You could feel the headroom and power on big chords, making me realize just how loud 20 watts is — I was shaking the walls.
Backing off the volume knob on the guitar cleaned the amp up very nicely and brought out the more subtle tones that you only get from that type of combination. Throwing caution to the wind, I dimed the controls and hit the Bump switch. This setting gave me that open throttle feel, similar to my favorite Marshalls where it’s on the verge of feedback and notes effortlessly glide out of the guitar. Because the Master is a voltage control, it works differently than a typical master volume by bringing the voltage down correctly and effectively reducing the volume. At all but the lowest settings it didn’t harshly affect the tone. You can bring it down to a comfortable bedroom volume without killing the integrity of the sound, which is a nice bonus and also useful for late night studio sessions at the house.
The Smooth switch is labeled with a “+” and “-” on either side of the switch. In the “+” position, it acts like a boost of some sort and added a nice edge to the sound while increasing the gain. Both positions sound great, and if you’d like a little smoother sound, you can switch to the “-” position and take some of that edge off. I found this very useful for matching guitars to the Tupelo. In particular, my Strat liked the sound of the “-” position when using the bridge pickup.
Let’s not forget the tremolo! The tremolo is engaged either with the included footswitch or using the Intensity knob. The trem has a unique sound and a depth that I’ve rarely encountered on an amp. With the Intensity set at full and the Speed at the lowest position, it produced a thick throbbing that was syrupy and gooey. Bringing the speed up and backing down the Intensity took the focus off the effect, resulting in a beautiful swirl and depth that added richness and texture to the tone. The effect was so addictive I found myself leaving it on almost all the time, including soloing. It’s that good.
65Amps uses a combination of vintage American Allen Bradley carbon composite resistors and modern 1% Mil-spec metal film resistors in their circuitry. The carbon comp resistors are used in the tone path, while the more stable 1% Mil-spec metal film are used in areas that do not affect the tone as heavily. This creates a unusually repeatable and predictable formula that 65Amps says provides the best of vintage tone and modern stability and safety. 65amps purchased over 350,000 vintage Allen Bradley 5% Mil-spec resistors from the military and can build in this fashion for years.
The Les Paul wasn’t the only guitar that loved the Tupelo. Over the review period I ran a Hamer Korina Special through it with devastating results. The tone was so raw and edgy that it ended up being the star of a track on my upcoming CD. An Epiphone Sheraton matched nicely with the amp and gave off shades of tones that I hadn’t heard come out of that particular guitar before. As much as I loved the dirty tone, it was the semi-clean, backed-off volume knob sound that blew me away and had me playing for hours. A Richmond Dorchester with Lace Alumitone pickups and a Bigsby produced a glassiness and class, and the combination of the tremolo and a little dip of the Bigsby was right out of a David Lynch film. This could very well be my favorite sounding guitar with the Tupelo for cleans and slide.
The amp’s passive effects loop worked flawlessly with a variety of pedals and effects I ran through it. While I don’t usually use effects loops these days, it did bring up the point that if one is designed well there’s no reason not to use one for time-based or other effects.
The Final Mojo
While a lot of amps these days can do a lot of different tones through channel-switching and FX, the beauty of the Tupelo lies in its seemingly simple design. Even though there are only a few knobs and switches, each one of them serves up a potent range and, most importantly, allows the guitar’s personality to shine through. Throughout the review process, I found sounds in guitars I’ve owned for years that never had been heard before — a truly remarkable feat. With enough power to play at a club or in the studio, coupled with a master voltage circuit to cut down the volume when necessary, I’d say 65Amps really nailed it — again! This one’s a keeper.
Buy if…
portable, versatile, big American tone is what you’re looking for
Skip if…
you need more power (what? You’re playing the Enormodome tonight?)
Rating…
MSRP $2395 – 65Amps – 65amps.com
Source: https://mercurymagnetics.com/pages/news/PremierGuitar/PremierG-26.htm
60’s Atlas Medalist Bass Amp Choke — PN TF-E3021H
325-0-325VAC unloaded B+ — Center Tapped 6.3V — 5V Rectifier Winding — Styles vary: please confirm mounting style before ordering
60’s — Original PN TF-503-O
Upgrade — With 240V Primary
GA-30 — Les Paul OT with primary leads and secondary lugs.
GA-18T — single 8 Ohm tap
GA-6 — single 8 Ohm tap
GA-5T Rare GA5 Push Pull — mounting centers are 2-3/4″
GA-19 — single 8 Ohm tap
GA-8T — single 8 Ohm tap
GA-30 RVT. Please confirm mounting style before ordering
Tweed GA-14 Titan
EH-185 — 120V, 220V, 230V & 240V primary — late ’30s & ’40s — Please confirm mounting style before ordering
EH-185 — 120V primary — late ’30s & ’40s — #T40069
Please confirm mounting style before ordering
GA-40 Les Paul — 100V, 120V, 220V, 230V & 240V primary. Mounting styles vary – Please contact us before placing your order.
GA-40 Les Paul — Please confirm mounting style before ordering
GA25 Hawk — Original PN TF-23-P1 — Styles vary: Please contact us before ordering
GA-83S — Please confirm mounting style before ordering
EH-150 — 220V, 230V & 240V primary — #T40069 — late ’30s & ’40s — Please confirm mounting style before ordering
EH-150 — #T40069 — late ’30s & ’40s — Please confirm mounting style before ordering
GA90 with 5v winding — 120V primary — Please confirm mounting style before ordering
Category 5 is a relatively new company based in Frisco, Texas that has wasted no time in developing twelve distinctly unique, hand-wired designs ranging in power from 15W–100W, while aggressively placing amps with touring players like Joe Bonamassa, Tab Benoit, Jimmy Thackery, Gary Moore and one of our favorite Texas Burstbusters, Jonn Richardson (Otis Taylor), among others. The company’s strategy for quick and lasting growth is fairly obvious with a quick scan of their website – build hand-wired tube amps to the highest standards of custom manufacturing, and offer a range of power and tone shaping options that will meet the needs of virtually any player, from low volume home and studio applications to 100 watt pro rigs suitable for cavernous venues and big stages. When it comes to fully understanding the intention of Cat 5 amps, you’ll need to do a little homework on each model, many of which are named for famously wicked hurricanes. We’ve done all the work for you on the two models reviewed here….
We received a 1×15 version of the 40 watt Andrew, which is also available in 2×10, 2×12 and 4×10 configurations. The 1×15 is equipped with our favorite current production 15” – the Eminence Legend–along with dual 5881 power tubes and an interesting combination of two separately voiced input channels. Channel 1 is described as having been inspired by the ’61 Fender brown Deluxe. Having owned a dead mint example of this very amp, we can tell you that it possessed a remarkably toneful and middy snarl, but very little usable clean headroom, which is why we ultimately let it go. Channel 1 in the Andrew produces an equally “brown”sound – rich with midrange and none of the typically scooped tones of the black face era.
Channel 1 is designed with a single tone control to shape EQ, plus the global reverb and “voltage”controls for the internal variac circuit. Of course, the reissue Tung-Sol 5881 tubes create a much more formidable voice than our brown Deluxe could ever must, which we consider to be a tremendous improvement to anything inspired by the brown Deluxe. We all experience and embrace varying sounds quite differently, so we won’t offer this as an absolute, universal truth – but to our ears at least, we prefer the tone and attitude of Andrew’s Channel 1 combined with snappy single coil pickups that can impart a stronger attack on the bass strings and happily frolic in the midst of all that midrange. Otherwise, what you hear is the sonic equivalent of a chocolate-chocolate chip double fudge cookie in the style of a late ’50s Gibson GA40– a very good thing with single coils or bright replica PAFs. Dialed in with the sole tone control, you can create a very old-school tone in Channel 1, and that does seem to be its purpose, so mission accomplished. A more nimble and versatile range of black face tones are found in Channel 2.
Channel 2 offers a full range of tone-shaping EQ, with bass, treble and midrange controls, plus the global reverb and voltage controls common on both channels. We asked Steven Scott, head of product development at Category 5to explain….
TQR: Does the voltage control essentially function as avariac, dropping voltage to the power section, or is something else involved (most people have heard of power scaling but have no idea what it really does)? Power Scaling is another name for voltage control. We don’t use the same circuit as London Power and have not licensed the trademarked name, so we can’t call it Power Scaling. The voltage control makes the B+ voltage variable from about 60VDC to about 450VDC, which allows you to dial the amp from about 5W to about 45W. This allows you to more or less keep the same tone once you’ve dialed it in, then scale it to the size of the venue. This is the feature that our customers rave about the most. The tone really does stay pretty consistent until you take the voltage way down below about 11:00 on the dial. Then it starts to brown out as the tubes are operating well blow their intended point. Another advantage of this technology is it greatly improves tube life as the bias drops as the voltage is turned down. It differs from using a variac in that only the B+ voltage is affected, meaning filament voltage stays the same and no damage to the tubes such as cathode stripping can occur.
GA-6 — Drop-in Upgrade! Please confirm mounting style before ordering
GA-19RVT — Please confirm mounting style before ordering
We have always considered the AC30 to be a great amp, if not the most versatile when compared to some other well-known names built during the ’60s… like Fender… arguably the most versatile amplifiers ever built.
The ToneQuest Report advisory board member and super player, James Pennebaker, first alerted us to the full potential of the AC30 when, after two decades of loyally playing vintage Fender amps, he switched to the reissue AC30 TBX as his main stage rig. Suddenly, James’ tone seemed to become his own, whether he was playing through his vintage Gretsch Country Gentleman, Cunetto-era Relic Tele or Strat, or Custom Shop Gibson ES295. Last year during the winter NAMM show in Los Angeles the considerable potential of the AC30 came to light again, thanks to west coast swing king Kid Ramos…. The Kid played two long, incredible sets in a cool little dump in Anaheim called the Doll Hut with vintage Strats and Teles through a vintage AC30 with an equally vintage Fender reverb unit, proving beyond any doubt that you can absolutely rule playing the blues and swing with an AC30 rig. The Kid’s tone was unforgettably smooth and musical in the style of an alto saxophone being expertly blown, and for an electric guitar, that’s a mind-blowing experience you won’t soon forget. So you’ll understand our interest in a mysterious and somewhat troubled AC30 that was traded in at Midtown Music. Sick as this amp first sounded, the Kid’s tone was still calling…. The amp seemed to work fine when it first arrived at Midtown, but it soon developed progressively noisy problems that eventually took it down. That’s when we volunteered to deliver the AC30 to Jeff Bakos and make it the subject of this review.
Jeff was able to diagnose and fix the AC30 in a couple of hours (merely a few bad caps and resistors in the vibrato circuit and tone stack), but the amp’s origins remained a mystery. The cabinet was in excellent, original condition and displayed all the classic marks of vintage British Vox construction, but there was no “Jennings Musical Industries” metal serial number tag on the back panel — only the heads of four brass upholstery nails that had once held a missing plastic ID tag. The gray control panel also lacked the typical Vox “JMI” stenciled logo, yet the amp was clearly built with the correct, hand-wired turret board construction, transformers, and Vox circuit. Our attempts to date the amp by the pot codes were unsuccessful because all of the originals had been replaced with CTS pots dating to the early ’90s, so we contacted Mitch Colby at Korg (Vox and Marshall USA) and sent him images of the amp with a request for help in dating it.
Mitch replied that it appeared to be a “Vox Sound Ltd.” AC30 built in England by Dallas Arbiter, the company famous for the original FuzzFace and Sound City amps made in England. Mitch also added that the Dallas Arbiter AC30s were “very nice” amps, having been built in the early ’70s, immediately following the end of the JMI era. Mystery solved. Contrary to information on the AC30s built at the Dallas Arbiter factory that we found at www.voxamps.co.uk, the cabinet of our amp is built with solid wood throughout — not particle board. And how does it sound? As good as it gets. The Celestion G12 speakers dating to 1979 had been reconed some time ago with the correct Celestion kit, all of the preamp tubes had been updated with JAN GEs, and while not a Jennings, this amp fully earned the vaunted status of vintage AC30 in every regard — punchy, fat, rich in midrange tones where the guitar really lives, with solid bass response and sweet, soaring top end.
Should you decide to explore the full potential of an AC30, you have a number of very good choices. The original vintage amps built by Jennings in England are expensive, so you need to insure originality of the transformers and internal components. A few replaced capacitors or resistors here and there are of no concern, but massive modifications by an overly zealous bench monkey are unacceptable — keep walking. Prices for amps with non-original transformers should be reduced by 30%-50%. Vintage 2×12 combos with original Celestion G12 speakers in excellent condition range from $2,800.00 for a later gray panel to as much as $3,500.00 for a red (candy) panel amp and $5,000.00-$7,000.00 for the earliest tan AC30s. Although increasingly rare, vintage heads alone can sometimes be found for around $1,600.00 and climbing. The limited edition hand-wired AC30 built several years ago by Vox/Korg features reverb and an excellent master volume feature. Outstanding and pricey, expect to pay at least $2,000.00 for this amp in gently used condition. At that price it’s a steal. The discontinued “Korg” AC30 reissue TBX amps like James Pennebaker’s are very good as is, and they can be made to sound even better by replacing the transformers and a few key, tone-shaping components. Don Butler specializes in optimizing reissue Marshall, Vox and Fender amps using premium components and Mercury Magnetics™ ToneClone™ transformers (www.tone-man.com, 661-259-4544).
Early reports on the Chinese AC30 Custom Classic ($1,600.00 with Celestion Alnico G12 speakers, blendable channels, a true bypass FX loop, spring reverb and master volume) are also very good, and Don tells us that his personal Custom Classic also benefited from the same upgrades he makes on the TBX models.
The AC30 is another great amp for players wishing to acquire a sound that sits clearly apart from typical Fender and Marshall tones. AC30s have a unique, compressed character rich in harmonic content and British chime with a versatile amount of clean headroom. More aggressive solos with heavy sustain and gain will require a boost pedal (especially with weaker single coil pickups), but the results will be stellar if you start with a good amp. And don’t buy into the collector hype about Top Boost models being the only desirable version to pursue. Vintage Jennings AC30s stamped “Bass,” “normal,” or “Treble” are equally desirable — in fact, we prefer them. Older AC30s are often a little tattered and may require a tune up and a stout matched quartet of EL84s, but these old amps will reward you with a thicker, richer tone and an intoxicating effluvia of Bitter and Rothmann’s that is lacking in modern AC30 reissues built on printed circuit boards. But oh, how you do pay for the privilege….
The most significant negative regarding all AC30 amps new and old is their considerable weight, which will quickly remind you why they are equipped with not one, but three handles. If you haven’t personally experienced the magical sound of a good AC30, perhaps it’s time. Heave forth….
One of the common questions we receive here is, “How can I get my (fill in the blank with your favorite brand name) reissue amplifier to sound like the original?” Often times the question will contain additional information of what had been done already. “I’ve replaced the preamp and power tubes and gotten it biased, but it still sounds cold and brittle….”
My usual answer involves examining the guitarist’s rig by taking a “system” approach when looking for a particular tone. Often too much weight (i.e. blame!) is put on the amplifier, perhaps because it is the most electronically complex item in a typical signal chain. Countless times I’ve personally played with changes to an amplifier, whether modifying it, changing the tubes, etc. and still had poor results in overall tone! Now if you’ve got the wrong pickup or speakers for your needs, then obviously no change to an amp is going to help all that much….
But presuming all other areas of your guitar rig/system are covered, then let’s go back to the amp itself and talk about a particular upgrade that hasn’t gotten the attention it has deserved: the output transformer. In fact, dare I say that in many cases — for example a reissue amplifier — a change to a higher-quality output transformer will have a greater impact on improving the overall tone than playing with different brands of tubes. Essentially, if you’ve got the best tubes, or the worst tubes, but if your output transformer is a low-grade model, your tone will suffer no matter what you do.
“What the heck is the output transformer?,” you may ask. Well in layman’s terms, it’s the final connection in your tube amplifier that takes the signal from the tubes and transforms them into impedances and power suitable for your speakers. In further layman’s terms, it’s one of the big “metal blocks” that is attached to a typical tube amplifier’s chassis and is the connection link between your tubes and speakers. Most commonly, there are two large transformers in an amp — The other besides the output transformer is called the power transformer — that is the one that is responsible for taking the wall current and transforming it into the DC power used by your amplifier. While the power transformer is directly responsible for areas like supplying exactly how much voltage goes to your tubes and therefore can affect the response or “feel” of the amplifier, it is the output transformer that can dramatically affect the tone of your amplifier since audio signal is actually passing through it.
Like tubes, transformers can distort and color the sound, but in part because they are wired to an amplifier rather than just being “plug-in” devices, I feel they receive very little of the attention as to how much they can affect the tone. In fact, output transformers used to be thought of as simply items to be replaced when they failed. However, I can attest personally that in many instances a change in the output transformer to a quality unit as an upgrade can make a huge difference in tone — especially with those popular reissue Fender, Marshall, and Vox amps currently being made.
I recently was fortunate enough to try some units out made by Mercury Magnetics™ (www.MercuryMagnetics.com) with the idea being to install and listen to the various tones of some of their models of output transformers. The test-dummy amp used in the first case was a stock 1974 Marshall JMP 50 watt model 1987 Lead model — it had recently blown its output transformer after a tube had shorted a connection between two pins of the tube socket so it was the perfect candidate. The stock transformer still actually “worked” somewhat – but the power output was very low, probably about 1/5 of what the amp should have been producing.
Mercury Magnetics™ offers three choices for replacement 50 watt output transformers and I had the opportunity to try two of them. The units are part of the Axiom® or ToneClone™ series which are hand-built replicas of the original transformers used in the Marshalls of various eras. In addition to the Marshall replacement transformers, Mercury Magnetics™ also makes various other Axiom® models for classic Vox and Fender amplifiers in addition to other toneful amps such as Ampeg, Gibson, Hiwatt, and many others.
The models I tested were the Axiom® 050JM, a 50 watt output transformer model based on the earliest “plexi” Marshalls, and the Axiom® 050JM-SL, a similar model with the “Self-Leads” option. Both are priced at $150. The SL model differs from the standard 050JM in that it is made just like the earliest original plexi transformers were, where the solid copper core wire that is wrapped around inside the transformer continues outside of the transformer and is also the same wire used to connect to the tubes and impedance plug, etc. The solid-core copper SL wires outside of the transformer are covered by glass-cloth fabric material, just like that used on the original ‘60s models. Conventional transformers (including the non-SL version 050JM) use a different type of wire, often Teflon, that is spliced at the end of the solid-core wire that is then wrapped around the transformer inside. So what’s the big deal about the wire type? Oddly enough, it seems to really affect the tone of the output transformer — more on this in a moment.
Mercury Magnetics™ makes another model as well, the 050JM-M ($175), that is designed to be used in conjunction with modified Marshalls that require a beefier output transformer to better match up to the higher B+ plate voltages and other modifications or changes that run the amps harder. Since the ’74 JMP Marshall guinea pig was a stock model, I focused on the two plexi model variations, the 050JM and 050JM-SL.
The 050JM-SL was installed first. Since Marshalls sound best when run hard into power tube distortion, that’s exactly the listening environment I used. The head was run through a ’71 basketweave Marshall cabinet with G12M-25 greenbacks. The guitar was my trusty Les Paul Classic with a custom-specified Seymour Duncan Seth Lover PAF-type pickup. The tone of the amplifier with the 050JM-SL installed was brighter in the upper mids as well as the highs. The gain was a bit lower than with the stock Marshall’s output transformer (when it was properly functioning), but the clarity of notes and chords was definitely improved. The 050JM-SL is a good fit for players that like classic-rock and blues tones and perhaps need a bit more high-end cut through the mix. Usually additional highs are the last things that are needed with Marshalls, especially the amps and cabs made from about the mid ‘70s onwards. However, if you play through an earlier model Marshall loaded into a basketweave cab with G12-25s, “over brightness” really is not an issue and the O50JM-SL is the right match for this earliest type plexi tone. If you’re running a later checkerboard cab and a ‘70s JMP Marshall like our test model, the O50JM-SL may prove to have a bit more top end than what you’d want.
Moving over to the O50JM, I was amazed at how different this transformer sounded, even though other than the lead wires that exited the transformer, it has the same specifications and parts as used in the O50JM-SL! After installing it, I knew that the O50JM was the choice for the hard-rockers, whether using a plexi or metal panel-front Marshall. The O50JM had more distortion dirt and grind in the tone. Both transformers contributed to a very smooth response from the Marshall, but the O50JM traded off the upper frequency and some of the clarity content found in the SL model for what sonically resulted to its increased distortion and compression.
I also had the opportunity to hear the difference in a 100 watt reissue Marshall SLP after a Mercury Magnetics™ O100JM ($250: their 100 watt “plexi” output model) was installed and the results were even more staggering than the difference between the stock and upgraded 1974 Marshall 50 watts. I attributed this directly to the obviously low-grade output transformer used in the reissue Marshall. Crank up a stock Marshall SLP reissue and the transformer really does mask the tone — bright, grainy and cold are the words that come to mind as well as a pure lack of fidelity. The O100JM brought back the low-end warmth, made the top end smooth and the famous Marshall midrange crunch was back in the equation just like the original models. This is tone, pure and simple — and the reissue SLP held its own against my original ’68 100 watt Plexi Marshall.
One area worth mentioning is that Mercury Magnetics™ can also rewind original vintage transformers if you don’t want to replace your burnt out original vintage transformer. Mercury Magnetics™ replaces the internal windings and necessary parts but uses the original core and covers and then puts the transformer back to original specifications. This is ideal for the person who is looking to maintain their amp in a form that is as original as possible. This service is more costly than simply replacing the output transformer outright, but it will also help maintain an amp’s value so it makes a viable choice.
When looking into swapping out an output transformer, while it’s not extremely complex to do, it’s best to have a qualified professional technician do the job as tube amps contain lethal voltages that are stored inside the amp even when it is not plugged in. It can be a bit of a time-consuming job as you have to get underneath the amplifier’s layout/circuit board so the average charge by a technician to remove and replace the old transformer with a new one will typically run about $100 or so.
We asked Benjamin Fargen and Mike Piera to comment separately on the development of the Weider Signature amp. Our review follows their interviews…
TQR: Briefly describe the process that was involved dialing in the tone of the amp—how you achieved the higher threshold of clean headroom and power in Channel One, and the Distortion Channel.
Fargen: I built the original JW-40 prototype amp for Jim in late 2004 and it was tweaked over the course of two years as Jim played shows to support his album Percolator. I flew back to New York three times during the process for lone three day weekends of tone tweaking, listening and catching Jim at some live performances. Our job was to outperform Jim’s favorite, modified blackface Deluxe Reverb, which had been his main amp for many years—not an easy task since the amp has some very special qualities that were essential to capture while retaining Jim’s signature sound. We also matched it up to many other vintage Fenders and other high end amps that were in the same league, and when we finally surpassed all of them in tone and clean sustain, we knew we had a good design.
The original prototype amp had less headroom, so we decided to go with a slightly higher B+ voltage to squeeze at ad more headroom out of the amp for larger rooms and outdoor shows. We sorted through many different power transformers, output transformers and chokes from Mercury Magnetics before we found the correct match, and the feel and sound we were looking for.
TQR: The reverb seems to “sit” very nicely in the mix—not too splashy or pingy, and it doesn’t add any unwanted overtones. Did you do anything unusual in designing it?
Fargen: It’s similar to a classic Fender-style reverb with some tweaks to the overall EQ and the amount of return level reverb. I feel that the stock Fender design places too many mid and low mid frequencies in the mix,and I prefer more of a high end sparkle for the reverb to stand out. But the biggest problem with a stock Fender-style reverb is the way it can sometimes walk all over the note rather than work with it. The overall amount of reverb you allow to return to the recovery circuit is very critical to obtain a great sound.
TQR: Describe the Slope feature.
Fargen: The slope feature changes the overall frequency response of the EQ circuit to achieve greater flexibility when matching up different guitars and pickups with the JW-40. Jim and I felt it was nice to have other tonal options that changed the overall wide or narrow” character of the EQ structure. This came in really handy when switching between single coils and humbucking pickups.
TQR: Can you briefly summarize the effect the O-rings on the power tubes seem to have on the sound of the amp?
Fargen: The power/preamp tube dampening rings not only help to suppress micro-phonics and tube rattle, but they seem to produce a tighter sound with a very extended low end range. I find they are very useful for thickening up your amp tone at lower volumes, but some players may want to remove them for higher volume levels since the low end can become excessive with darker guitars or humbuckers.
TQR: What have you learned from the experienced designing, tweaking and dialing in this amp?
Fargen: Working on the JW-40project with Jim has been a great experience—he’s a great player with an amazing ear for tone. We worked very hard to achieve an amplifier design that not only exceeded Jim’s needs and expectations from a signature amp, but would be well receive by other players. We set out to deliver a classic guitar amplifier that offers a tone and feel that extends beyond even the best vintage examples that can be found, so this project really forced me to think outside of the box and develop many new techniques rather than just deliver one of my stock amplifiers to Jim with his name on it. It takes partnerships like this to shakeup your normal routine so that you can push the envelope and continue to grow as a designer/builder. Because, as we all know—if you feel you have nothing left to learn, you should just quit now.
It was clear the moment we played the first notes through the Fargen JW-40 that someone with an extraordinary ear and deep experience had influenced the way this amp is voiced. The Rhythm channel pours out more clean, Fendery headroom than one of our favorite, more powerful blackface amps—the Pro Reverb—an the clean tones are richer,fuller, more detailed, lively and deeper. With the Slope switch engaged in the Rhythm channel, the tone becomes even thicker in the upper mids, creating more of an EQ bump rather than a “boost” that ignites some kind of overdrive feature. We did notice some boominess in the low frequencies using a 4×12 cabinet loaded with Celestion’s Gold Alnico G12sand G12H30s, and in our Balls2x12 cabinet with an oval “football” open back design and British optimally voiced for an open back cabinet. There may also be some bias on our part at work here, because we have never cared much for the sound of a Fender amp with a closed back cabinet.
As noted in our discussion with Ben Fargen, the reverb in the JW-40is unique in the way it remains in the back-ground, enhancing, but not overwhelming or washing over the notes. This is undoubtedly the best reverb sound in a combo amp we have ever heard for an under-stated effect, and even players that normally don’t use reverb may find it difficult to resist.
The Lead channel controls function much like an over-drive pedal, with Drive, Level and Tone controls and a toggled Boost switch. A Midrange control is also included. You couldn’t ask for a clearer, more intelligently designed control panel, and the controls themselves are simple and intuitive. As with many overdrive or boost pedals, mixing variable settings for Drive and Level produce a wide range of intensity, from a fat clean boost to rippin’ overdrive, but unlike a typical pedal, higher Level settings do not push the volume of the amp up to extremes as the Level is increased. In practical terms, this means that you can switch between the Rhythm and Lead channels without having to make dramatic adjustments to the volume on your guitar. We also dis-covered some incredibly tasty overdriven tones at very low volumes with the Level down and the Drive up—kind of like a’50s Gibson GA20 with more fidelity and no noise, and that’s a trick you can’t pull off with many distortion pedals.The Tone control helps shape and color the distortion EQ to suit different guitars and moods, and it can also be used to subtly focus on specific harmonic overtones. But the most remarkable feature of the boost circuit is the “clean”character of the over driven tone. Mike Piera’s mention of David Gilmore is instructive in this regard. Gilmore’s fat, overdriven guitar tones on his solos are indicative of the rich fidelity produced by the JW-40. Chords are clear with distinct note separation, sustain and decay are natural rather than sounding forced or artificially contrived,and the overall sound is round, rich and warm with a sweet, clear top end.Our best description of the over driven voice of the Fargen is “majestic,”and who can’t live with that?
Anyone familiar with Mojave Ampworks founder Victor Mason’s other venture — a California dealership of vintage British amplifiers known as the Plexi Palace — will be aware of this amp maker’s fanaticism for classic Marshall-style tones. The Scorpion outwardly appears to take a serious stab at satiating that craving in a modern package, but don’t be too quick to label this 50-watter as simply a Marshall plexi update. While the Scorpion certainly aims squarely at the big Brit-rock tones of the late 1960s and early ’70s, it’s nowhere near to being a clone, and the design has enough clever twists to make it an entirely original creation. Although nominally a 50-watter, the Scorpion aims to provide big-box 100-watt sound and feel in a small package.
The core of the Scorpion’s sonic DNA revolves around that big, crunchy, dynamic EL34 sound with the characteristically thumping lows and singing highs. But this model redraws the roadmap that takes you there, and adds plenty of new ingredients in the name of versatility. Mojave keeps the adjustable fixed-bias output stage with a dash of negative feedback, cathode-follower tone stack, and solid-state rectification that partly define the post-1967 Marshall 50-watters, but re-labels the tone stack as Bass, Low Mid, High Mid, and Treble, with High Mid taking the job of a Presence control. It also employs a nifty trick in the preamp stage that has become something of a Mojave standard: internally ganging together two different first gain stages comprised of an independent, parallel-wired twin-triode 12AX7 for each—one voiced to emphasize bass, the other to emphasize treble—and providing a Volume control for each so you can blend them together. This is not a master volume amp, but it carries a Power Dampening control on the back panel that governs a unique proprietary circuit that reins in volume levels at the output stage, allowing you to take the Scorpion from 50 watts down to 3 watts, and anywhere in between. Other features include High and Low Sensitivity inputs, and a back panel 1/4″ Line Out jack with a Level control and ground lift alongside dual 8- and single 16-ž outputs.
As alluring as it might be from the outside, much of the Scorpion’s appeal reveals itself when you pull the chassis from the cab. This amp is hand built to some of the most exacting standards found in the market today.
Powder-coated black metal grilles protect components front and back, and the brand is boldly represented by an acid-etched aluminum nameplate. The rugged turret board follows a linear layout from input to output stage, and the flying-lead connections to transformers, potentiometers, switches, and tube sockets (all chassis mounted) are made with Teflon-insulated, silver-plated copper wire. While many amp makers swear by old-style carbon comp resistors for “warmth” and “vintage authenticity,” Mojave uses high-grade metal film resistors because they can be obtained in more precise values, and generally result in a lower noise floor. These share the board with Sprague filter capacitors and custom-made, one-percent tolerance film and foil polypropylene signal capacitors. Transformers are all custom made for Mojave by the highly regarded Mercury Magnetics company, and the whole shebang is bolted together in a reinforced aluminum chassis. Finally, the output transformer presents a novel twist on the classic 50-watter formula, as Mojave has spec’d it for “triple-capacity,” which can handle as much as three times the Scorpion’s 50-watt output. This approach can achieve the response of a 100-watt stack in a smaller amp, resulting in firmer lows and remarkable headroom.
Our review sample came with the 2×12 semi-open-back cab loaded with Celestion G12H-30s, but a closed-back 4×12 is also available for $985 retail. The cabinet is a robust, yet portable unit with a single, recessed handle positioned top center.
I tested the Scorpion with a range of guitars, including a Fender Stratocaster and a Telecaster, a Gibson SG Special, and a PRS Singlecut Trem. The overriding impression this amp left with me was one of power, body, and massive volume — even with single-coil pickups. This is one massive sounding amplifier, and Mojave has certainly achieved the goal of attaining 100-watt-style performance in a 50-watt package. It delivers a wide, blooming soundstage with tight, but not overly booming lows, a thumping midrange, and glittery, yet nicely recessed highs. In short, you get broad, punchy, in-your-face dynamics across a frequency spectrum that’s very flattering to rock guitar.
With the Strat and Tele, the Scorpion exhibited stunning clarity and superior headroom up to about a ten o’clock position of the Volume controls, at which point it was already too loud for home studios, basement rehearsals, and many club gigs. Humbuckers and P90s brought out the raunch a little sooner. Roll it up from there, and you segue through toothsome crunch to absolutely screaming lead tones — both of which are easily cleaned up at the guitar’s Volume control. This is the fat, tactile, airy, classic sound that arena-rock dreams are made of, and when you get the volume up anywhere from one to five o’clock, it’s a rare and spine-chilling experience to just stand in front of this rig and wail. Tweak the EQ to taste, put a booster or distortion pedal in front of it as desired (all of which this amp handles very well), and there’s very little in the broad fields of rock, blues-rock and metal that it can’t do.
That said, the trend these days is toward downsizing, and plenty of players are looking for amps that sound like cranked 50-watters in 15-watt packages, not 50-watters that sound like a 100-watters. The Scorpion’s Power Dampening control is a cool feature that brings levels down as much as you’d like, but it does color the tone a little bit, and you also need to dial down the Volume controls to retain similar headroom at lower volumes. In short, this powerful monster is most cut out for serious rockers who expect to put in most of their playing hours on large stages.
The Scorpion also sounded fantastic through the 2×12 cabinet, which seemed to take everything I could throw at it without breaking a sweat. But if you plan to play this amp toward max in big venues, you might consider pairing it with Mojave’s 4×12 cab. I ran the Scorpion through a custom 4×12 with G12H-30s in my rehearsal space, and it proved an equally thrilling endeavor, with that huge kick in the gut that lets you know you’re pushing a lot of air. However, it wasn’t demonstrably louder than Mojave‘s very efficient, compact open-back 2×12, so the choice is yours. But whatever you blast it through, this is an extremely accomplished-sounding, as well as a stunning piece of craftsmanship.
Source: https://mercurymagnetics.com/pages/news/GuitarPlayer/GPAug07.htm
Quietly, outside of Los Angeles, Steve Trovato has been leaving blazing guitar everywhere he goes.
Currently, he is a full time instructor in the Studio Jazz Department at the University of Southern California. In addition, Steve has found the time to author over 20 instructional books for Warner Brothers and Hal Leonard, produce over 50 instructional videos for the likes of Yngwie Malmsteen and Paul Gilbert, and has even starred in five of them. His students have achieved major success and include Scott Henderson, Frank Gambale, Paul Gilbert and Norman Brown. He has performed with Chet Atkins, Albert Lee, Robben Ford, Jeff Berlin, Jerry Donahue and Scott Henderson, and contributes to five international music publications, including Guitar Player, Guitar One, Axe, Guitar Club, Guitar World and Chittar, as well as recording for too many studio and motion picture projects to list. We caught up with Steve as he completed his new release, Country Jazzmaster.
One of the things I have always wondered about is who or what influenced you to start playing guitar?
Well, I think you’ll hear this from a lot of guys; it was the Beatles. I think I was six years old, and I had been playing the piano. I did my piano recital and played “The Blue Danube Waltz.” Then I saw the Beatles on Ed Sullivan and I thought, “Wow, girls never screamed for me playing piano.” So that was it and I started playing the guitar. That was pretty much it, and I have never looked back.
Did you come across a single moment that it finally hit you? This is it, this is what I want to do the rest of my life?
I’ve never been asked that before; that’s a really good question. I would say that there were three pivotal moments: one of them was when I saw the Beatles, the second was when I heard Chet Atkins for the first time, and the third was when I was up on stage and I got a chance to play with Albert Lee — that was when I really knew I wanted to do guitar. For some reason those guys hit me hard — they played melodies — and I always loved the way I could track it even though it was guitar playing. It was really very sophisticated. When I heard Chet Atkins play, I could hear the melody. Even with all the notes that Albert Lee plays, I can still keep track of it– that’s what attracted me. I think since I’ve been playing, if I have anything, it’s the ability to play a melody.
You’re originally from New Jersey. How did you end up on the West coast attending GIT (now the Musicians Institute)?
Like every guitar player on the East Coast, we were always hungry for information about the guitar. I used to get this magazine and I saw an ad for this place called GIT in California. I saw pictures of Larry Carlton, Tommy Tedesco and other people that I didn’t know, like Don Mock and Joe Diorio, and they were starting this school. They were sort of advertising it being for studio musicians, and that was what I wanted to be.
Now that you already have one CD under your belt, you’ve gone into the studio a second time with some outside input. How are you achieving your tones with the studio?
When I did my first album, I just took my rig into the studio with the thought that if it sounds good live, it will sound good in the studio. I’ve found that not to be true. I also realized that amps that are made specifically for recording don’t necessarily sound all that good in the studio. It really depends on the studio, the mics, and everything else. I brought every amp that I had down there — I even borrowed some amps. I ended up with five or six different amps and I had to just go through all of them to find out which one sounded the best in that studio — with that particular set up of room and microphones. I wound up actually using a boutique amp from a company in Virginia called Talos. I love those amps. It’s a 60-watt, one-twelve, and it just has two knobs on it, drive and gain.
“Well, I think you’ll hear this from a lot of guys; it was the Beatles. I think I was six years old, and I had been playing the piano. I did my piano recital and played ‘The Blue Danube Waltz.’ Then I saw the Beatles on Ed Sullivan and I thought, Wow, girls never screamed for me playing piano. So that was it and I started playing the guitar. That was pretty much it, and I have never looked back.”
What about guitars? Did you find that’s the same scenario to be true?
It’s something I suspected, but I never really had the chance to put it to the test. I usually use my G&L Legacy live, with the Kahler on it because it sounds great. You’re playing loud enough where if there’s a bass, drums and everything cranking you lose the nuances and the subtlety. But in the studio you retain those nuances and subtleties because everything is under a microscope. I found that using different guitars expresses that better.
If I want to play a sensitive, sort of Chet Atkins jazzy piece, the Legacy wouldn’t work because it sounds too thin, but with a loud phrase it will sound fine. For a quiet passage, I decided to use a Gibson — a Howard Roberts with two old humbuckers that I had. Of course, for the Straty-sounding things I used my red Legacy with a Kahler on it, which I absolutely love. For the rest of the stuff I used one of two Teles: a Fender solid body Telecaster and a G&L semi-hollow. None of them are stock. Seymour Duncan custom built the pickups for both of them.
What amps do you prefer for live performances?
I play rock, I use my Dumble. That, of course, is Alexander Dumble. It says “Built to win” and it really does, it’s just really something. I put a pedal in front of it to make sure it’s got enough overdrive. In the country bands I use a ’65 Pro Reverb, which Dumble rebuilt for me.
What do you use on the jazz side?
I use my Talos.
Throughout your time as a guitar player, you’ve been labeled as the chameleon of guitar. Do have a huge arsenal of guitars at your disposal that you have hiding in the back room to take out whenever you need to?
For the live work I pretty much grab whatever is nearest to the front door on the way out. I was never really one to take ten guitars to a session because I figured that one guitar would sound just as good as 10 guitars, but when you really start to do this seriously, there are subtle differences between all guitars that may or may not sound better for the tracks. You really have to have an arsenal of quite a few to do the job right.
What would be an ideal arsenal?
I would have to say you have to have a solid body, Strat-type of guitar with single coil pickups, a single coil Tele-type, a Les Paul-type solid body with humbuckers, a thin semi-hollow body sound, like a 345, and a jazz box, then, of course, steel string acoustic and a nylon string.
You mentioned putting a pedal on the floor in front of one of the amps.
Live I use a Boss GT-6. I use it for time delay effects such as reverbs, delays and chorusing. It sounds great for that and it’s also great on the floor. For distortion I’ve been using the AC Booster and the RC Booster by Xotic Pedals.
The Xotic pedals are fairly new. Can you tell us some more?
Oh, I love them. Those are the kind of the boutique pedals that all the guys in town are using. Scott Henderson told me about them. Studio guys like Michael Thompson are using them. Basically, the RC Booster is a pre-amp boost that keeps it clear, but gives it a little oomph. The AC Booster is an overdrive — basically a really high-end Tube Screamer with a bass control on it. Everybody loves Tube Screamers, but it takes the bass away from it; this is a Tube Screamer that sounds a lot more transparent and smoother than normal. You can also roll the bass back in because it has bass and treble controls.
You mentioned the Kahler Tremolo on one of your G&L’s. What do you like about it?
The thing I love about the Kahler is its flush and mounted solidly on the guitar body, versus another one. I won’t mention any names, but the initials are Floyd Rose. It is not really mounted on the body of the guitar as solidly and or as flush as a Kahler. With a Kahler, the tone sounds pretty darned good. I really like that about the Kahler. Since you have that big plate to rest against the body, you get more natural wood resonance, it doesn’t sound thin and small. The other thing that I like is the adjustable string spacing. I don’t think other bridges can do that.
On the first CD, About Time, you cover a whole spectrum of guitar playing. You do a dedication to Danny Gatton, you’re hitting a little Django, you’ve got “Somewhere Over the Rainbow” from Harold Arlen, and then you even do Billy Joel’s “Root Beer Rag.” What can we expect hear on the new CD?
When I spoke with Steve Vai, he was saying the last CD was really good but I needed a little bit better recording quality. He said the problem with the first CD, as far as marketing, is that I don’t know where to market it stylistically; it’s all over the map. I came up with this concept in my mind called “Country Jazzmaster,” with Jazzmaster being one word, like the guitar. I kept that thread in my mind as I was recording this album, and all of the songs leaned into that concept. Everything that you’re going to hear is country-jazz. Western swing, country jazz — that sort of a thing.
There’s a thread of continuity running through the whole album that you will hear. I recorded everything from the old Jerry Reed tune, “Guitar Man,” to “Back Home Again in Indiana,” “That She Could Ever Be,” “Panhandle Rag” and my ultimate version of “Ghost Riders in the Sky.”
I still remember this vivdly: a NAMM show where you, Steve Vai and I were standing around talking, and Steve hailed you as, “One of the greatest Tele players of all time.” Will we hear evidence of this on the new CD?
That was very nice of him. But, yeah, that’s what I’m hoping for, and I think that it’s really extremely well played, if I can say so myself. We all worked really hard on it.
Trovato Gearbox: Here’s what Steve is plugging in, when it’s time to shine.
Country Gigs
Guitars
Amps
Effects
Rock/Blues Gigs
Guitars
Amps
Effects
Steve Trovato: It’s About Time and the new, Country Jazzmaster, are available at: cdbaby.com / myspace.com/stevetrovatomusic
Source: https://mercurymagnetics.com/pages/news/PremierGuitar/PremierG-07.htm
Today it seems as though there’s a boutique amp manufacturer around every corner. Don’t get me wrong — boutique amps aren’t a bad thing, but a great many of them focus on recreating the same types of tones that we’ve heard before, sapping all of the meaning from the word, “boutique.” If you were to be objective about it, you could make the argument that Leo Fender’s Bassman was the forefather of modern guitar amplification — it was the very amp that Jim Marshall and Randall Smith [Mesa Boogie] hot-rodded to make their own famous amps. But with so many small builders basing their sounds off these designs, where is the room for improvement?
With that said, I literally bumped into a mom and pop operation by the name of Industrial Amps at the Boston Guitar Festival, hosted by none other than Premier Guitar. I was wearing a Marshall T-shirt when I ran into JoAnn Niekrewicz, the co-owner of Industrial Amps; seeing my shirt’s logo, she shouted through the crowd, “Try our amps — they are Marshall killers!”
Needless to say, it was a bold statement, but curiosity got the best of me; I immediately sat down and tried all of their amps. Plugging into models like the Rock 120, Blues 60, Crunch 15 and the Overdrive 15, I soon noticed that each amp had its own special sound. The Blues 60 had a nice, hollow blues tone, while the Crunch 15 and the Overdrive 15 seemed perfect for studio recording, providing dynamic tone saturation. When I arrived at the Rock 120, I was thoroughly blown away by the depth of crunch that it produced, especially when it was played through the IA extended 4×12 speaker cabinet, loaded with Celestion Vintage 30s. To explore this amp further, I had them send the Rock 120 combo to my studio, so I could really put it through its paces in a working environment.
“The tubes, transformers and capacitors all cleverly reside behind 1/4″ thick glass, so you can experience the mesmerizing glow of electronics at work. As an added bonus, the Rock 120 is tour-ready, boasting a set of large, riveted, zinc-coated handles with grips on both sides of the case, as well as four caster wheels for easy transport.”
Industrial Rock
Right out of the box, the Rock 120 is a striking piece of modern, industrial design. The amp is constructed in a white Tolex case made from 3/4″ true 11- ply hardwood birch, with the speakers enclosed behind a heavy duty grill made from 1/4″ aluminum for kick-proof protection. As for the cabinet itself, Industrial Amps designer Tony Niekrewicz works closely with a non-profit organization called Living Classrooms in Baltimore, MD. The program gives out-of-school youth, from ages 16-19, a chance to learn carpentry hands-on in a practical work environment.
The tubes, transformers and capacitors all cleverly reside behind 1/4″ thick glass, so you can experience the mesmerizing glow of electronics at work. As an added bonus, the Rock 120 is tour-ready, boasting a set of large, riveted, zinc-coated handles with grips on both sides of the case, as well as four caster wheels for easy transport. Electronically, the amp features 120 watts, two channels — Classic and Heavy — point-to-point hand wiring and an open back cabinet fitted with two 12″ Celestion 80s. The amp itself is powered by four premium 12AX7s, four EL34s, one 12AT7 for reverb and a solid state rectifier tube.
Turning my attention first to the Classic channel, I ran several guitars through it. In particular, my Gibson double-neck Jimmy Page Model produced a gorgeous, ringing tone, much like the tone you hear on the Birds song, “8 Miles High” or even the Zeppelin classic, “The Song Remains the Same.” A word of advice: when using double humbuckers, you’ll have to back off on the guitar’s volume a bit so you won’t overdrive the amp. What worked best for me was a Fender Strat. Though the Classic channel, the single coils produced a very smooth and fresh reverberation, similar to that of a Fender Deluxe.
Switching over to the Heavy channel produced a genuinely heavy bass response, perfect for shaking your tree. Overdriven, the Rock 120 is a cross between a classic Mesa Boogie Mark II and a Soldano amp. I used the amp on several recording sessions and even had Leslie West [of Mountain] play through the amp. He was very impressed with the amp’s gain — this coming from a guy that can never have too much gain. The notes were expressive and had an authentic, singing overtone; for those of you who remember the short-lived Fender Prosonic amp, this amp has a similar, driving tone.
The Rock 120 also recorded very well, especially using a Les Paul Goldtop with a Seymour Duncan ’59 humbucker in the bridge position and a Duncan Custom in the neck position. The tones were very saturated, but without the muddiness that some overdriven amps generate, due to theMercury Magnetics transformer inside — designed to provide both clarity and bottom growl. It has that Mesa Boogie singing tone and is great with pinch harmonics. The Treble, Bass and Presence controls are quite responsive, and unlike some amps, each one of the knobs really affects the tone. As an added bonus, the Heavy channel features a Gain control and a Master, so you don’t have to sacrifice your eardrums for sweet tone.
There’s lots to love here, but IA has thought to add in plenty of little touches that will make the purchasing decision easy. Each amp features dual speaker outs, voltage and ohm selectors, military spec components, and even, “severe duty Honeywell explosion-proof aircraft quality switches.” How much more rock n’ roll can you get?
The Final Mojo
Being an avid collector of vintage tube amps, I’m always skeptical of new products claiming to have superior sound. But my experience with Industrial Amps opened my ears to what small amp builders can achieve. While the price may be equivalent to other boutique amp models out there, the Rock 120 definitely gives you a lot more, in terms of sound and power. You won’t find this amp in Guitar Center, Sam Ash or any of the others commercial retailers — this a true underground find.
Source: https://mercurymagnetics.com/pages/news/PremierGuitar/PremierG-09.htm
Somewhere along the way, guitar amplifier tone got carelessly shoved into two broad categories – American and British. Fender being the quintessential American tone and Marshall being the obvious default for midrangey and reverb-less British tone. Within each, of course, there are distinct variations… Ampeg, Magnatone, Valco and Gibson, for example, are also American through and through, yet they remain distinctly different in sound and construction, and would rarely be mistaken for a typical Fender. Among British amps, Hiwatt, Sound City and Vox present equally diverse varieties of “British” tone that won’t be confused with a classic plexi Marshall head. But simply adding reverb or delay to a British amplifier will often throw listeners completely off as to its origins, while plugging into the Normal channel of a vintage Fender brown or blackface amp with the right guitar can produce an exceptional “Marshall tone.” Our recent experiment with our ’62 brown Vibrolux and a Goldtop Deluxe Les Paul with Lollar mini humbuckers rammed this point home with alarming clarity…. The point is, labels don’t always serve creativity and discovery well, and in the realm of supposed “vintage amp tone” where different examples can vary so dramatically, labels are worthless in generating much more than “skull chatter,” to quote Kye Kennedy. But, we still crave “Marshall tone,” whatever our individual perceptions of that sound may be. Well, since you asked….
ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZT!Yes, Gear Page wankers, we just did it again. Careful you don’t get a scab on that thing… it might get infected and fall off. We’ve unearthed two alternatives that will give you the bigger, bolder version of Marshall tone that you remember from your early Jeff Beck Group, Zeppelin and Cream albums, but at a volume level you can easily live with and actually enjoy in 2008.
A reader alerted us to Roy Blankenship, oh, about a year ago, and it took that long to get an amp shipped for review and develop an interview. It was worth the wait. Blankenship builds a manageable range of custom amps in Hollywood, and he seems more interesting in building what he wants, the way he wants, than going big time. We like that. So here’s an introductory dose of Roy Blankenship – an entertaining and frank fellow to e sure. Our review follows Roy’s interview.
TQR: Can you summarize your experience with electronics and guitar amps? How did you get started initially with mods and repairs, and how did that evolve into actually building your own amplifiers?
RB: First, I was born in California. My father worked for North American Aviation, and was transferred to Columbus, Ohio when I was 6 months old. Therefore, I was born crazy, but grew up normal. My father was a genius – he could build anything, and, in fact, he built my first guitar amp. It was a single-ended 6L6 design and had a field-coil speaker. It wasn’t loud enough to play in a band, but I still have it and it still works. I later discovered the cabinet he used was the extension speaker for an old film projector.
I started playing piano when I was 3, and played brass instruments in the school band. When I was a Junior in high school, I bought my first guitar. A Kent solid body, for $49.95. I finally convinced my dad to let me buy a Health kit 2×12 solid-state kit so that I could play out, and that was my first experience with electronic assembly. I was the guy in the band who would dick with all of the equipment. We bought some PA cabinets that had JBL’s in them, I refinished and rewired them, having no idea what I was doing, but it always worked. My dad had a whole workshop including lathe and drill press, so I often did small projects and repairs, like building my own speaker box to house two Jensen 6×9 speakers for the car. I wish I would have had the vision to go into production….
I was a hobbyist for the next 20 years, getting into tube hi-fi and going through a dozen Dynaco Stereo 70s, not knowing anything about them, but doing little stuff like biasing and tube exchanges. I was employed in the music biz as a sales rep for four different firms, and the pinnacle of my career was as national sales manager of Symetrixin Seattle, WA. In 1991, I had a three-state sales territory selling body shop equipment. I stopped to see my friend, Dan Abell (of Abell Audio, 909 King Ave., Columbus, OH), best tech in the world, and drop off some octal sockets my dad had left me. Dan was all upset and expressed that his assistant had quit that day and he was in a bind because he had so much work. On a whim, I said, “Hire me. I have always loved this stuff.” “Can you troubleshoot a circuit?” I said, “Not yet, but I have people skills and can do any number of things so that YOU can work.” I knew his assistant wouldn’t answer the phone or wait on customers, so, after the first day, Dan said,“Man, I can’t believe how much I was able to get done. You’re hired!” Within two weeks, I was repairing circuits. The info that opened the door was the difference between negative and positive polarity transistors. We worked together for the next four and a half years, never an angry word between us. At one point, I wanted to live in California, so I went to a NAMM show and was hired by Groove Tubes as production manager. The learning curve was straight up – there is an incredible amount of information in that place. From there I started my own place in Santa Monica. To escape the chaos that is L.A., I moved to Florida to escape. I realized the repair biz was not a big money maker, so when two clients started encouraging me to build my own designs, I was up for it. We beat it around fora while, they finally ponied up and I built two EL84 amps.They loved them, I was shocked (they were nothing special),but they were the start. I still have number 1 that I bought back from the third owner. My experience with amp repair changed when I came to L.A. People in Ohio and Florida were happy when their amps worked… players in California wanted their amps to sound good. That opened a whole new area of learning. About the same time, I was running into a lot of overly-modified amps that oscillated themselves to death, so I added “demodification” to my business card. People would call me back and say, “Man, this amp really sounds great now,” and I would reply, “Yes, I made it stock.” The only mods I deem worthy are tone-stack bypasses on Fenders and one of two master volume circuits that actually work well. They each allow you to attenuate volume without losing everything, and they both originated with Ken Fischer, amp guru, God rest his soul. Tube amplifier technology stabilized in the mid ‘60s, and very few amp builders have done anything innovative since that time. In order to separate myself from the pack, I wanted to improve on the existing circuits. When these amps were made, people were playing clean, now everyone wants to crank them up,and in order for them to deliver, my belief is that they need a stiffer power supply. I get a lot of comments on how “loud” my amps are for a given wattage rating. One client said, “I have played a lot of these amps, they give up when you hit them, but yours sounds like a big amp.”
TQR: Describe the different models you build in terms of features, construction and tone, how they differ from vintage or other custom built amps, and what you specifically wanted to accomplish and/or improve on with each model.
RB: I build my own take on American and British circuits,and I employ a stiffer power supply than most. I am currently using turret and eyelet board construction, but a printed circuit board can be useful if made properly. The compromises made by volume manufacturers is where the “circuit board-is-bad” myth started. Proper CAD design can lend itself to a quieter, more reliable product as long as the bean counters don’t try to take a nickel out of it at every turn. All of my current product is hand-wired, and as you know, there is a lot of snob appeal and dick-measuring in this business. For example, some of my clients wonder why I do not use Clarostat potentiometers… I have tested all of these devices, and I have never had a bad Alpha pot, but the Clarostats I ordered for testing were 50% defective!
In the Leeds amp, I went with different trannies than most and a stiffer power supply; this gives it more beef. In the Fatboy, I discovered an output tranny that would allow me to use 6V6’s (for 15 watts) or 6L6’s (for 25 watts) without changing the speaker load. Though the tranny was originally designed for an 8 ohm load, it actually worked more efficiently at 16. Overall, using Mercury trannies has been one of the best decisions of this whole venture. Now when I hear an amp with any other tranny, they sound flat. I took one of my amps to visit a friendly competitor, he played it and enjoyed it, then fired up his own amp, and it sounded flat. He was looking at his amp as if,“Hey, what’s going on here?” I think that was his first side-by-side comparison and he could hear the difference, much to his own chagrin.
TQR: What inspired the use of a Variac with the VariPlex? Why not just build a master volume circuit?
RB: We wanted to create a cranked-up Marshall sound at lower volumes, but people have time and again expressed their dissatisfaction with the attenuators on the market and the smashed sound of a bad master volume circuit. I credit Dave Friedman of Rack Systems with the concept and the prototyping. We tried five different kinds of coupling caps, different types and brands of resistors, different trannies…you name it. Eddie Van Halen popularized the whole Variac concept, so we modified the circuit so you could go from full tilt boogie down to 1 watt and the amp would not shut off. We have sold 40 of those amps with no marketing other than clips on a forum. We are now introducing a similar amp with a master volume for those who want it whisper quiet, but saturated. There are two master volume circuits that I know of that sound great even when turned down to speaking levels. We are using one of those and a few other mods in the new model, the Custom 45.
TQR: You describe a process on your web site in which you A/B’d the VariPlex with a friend’s ’68 Plexi and you didn’t stop tweaking the design until 10 out of 10 guitarists chose the VariPlex in a blind test. Can you elabo-rate on how those tests progressed and the changed to the circuit that you made to achieve those results?
RB: I could, but I won’t.
TQR: In your experience, how much variation in tone and component values, including transformers, have you observed in vintage Marshall amps? Isn’t it necessary to listen to a lot of different examples and then choose an exceptional amp as a benchmark?
RB: Yes. We already had “the Holy Grail” plexi in house, so we compared to that one. Most amps will respond to love, but there are some that are just exceptional. The reason for this amp-to-amp variance is manufacturing tolerances. If your trannies are built with plus or minus 20% tolerances, that means your amp could vary as much as 40% from sample to sample.
TQR: The VariPlex doesn’t sound “new” in the sense that it isn’t shrill or bright and sharp like some replica Marshall amps. How did you accomplish this?
RB:That’s my secret.
TQR: How long is the wait for one of your amps once it has been ordered?
RB:We have Carry-Ons in stock for the first time. Generally, we like to say 3-4 weeks just to be safe. Most of this is the gray area of vendor delivery on cabinets.
TQR: What’s ahead? What do you want to accomplish in the future?
RB: I want to be a thorn in someone’s side so they will offer a butt load of dough, I will sign a non-compete, and go away. Then, I can sit on the beach and light my cigars with $100 bills and sip pina coladas. The funniest thing about that picture is that I don’t drink OR smoke. Actually, we are introducing a bass amp shortly. As we gain more exposure, I am sure we will have enough to do. I am happy with people’s response to my products. I do not want to get huge, and I will probably not offer many more models – it gets too confusing. But thanks for considering me as a worthy contributor to your magazine. www.BlankenshipAmps.com (818) 530-8853
Our experience with “vintage Marshall tone” was formed with two stout examples that we were fortunate enough to own and play for years. The first was actually a late ’60 Park ’7550 watt head, followed by a metal panel 1969 Marshall50 watt. Both amps displayed the classic tone, smooth distortion and touch-sensitive dynamics we love to love and eagerly oozed the warmth and dimensionality that reissues lack. This isn’t complicated…. We’d simply drag a newish Marshall clone of some sort into the music room, compare its sound to the old one and invariably say, “Not bad, but this one sounds and feels better.”
When we fired up the Blankenship, however, not only did it sound richer and fuller with more depth than our old Marshalls, but the tone controls actually produce changes in EQ that allowed the amp to achieve a level of versatility that has always been sorely lacking in the originals. And then, of course, there is the nifty Variac that allows the VariPlex to be played at nominal volume levels with no audible deterioration in the responsiveness or tone and the amp. Essentially equipped with features that mirror an original Plexi, the VariPlex is a 2 channel/4 input design with presence, bass, mid and treble controls. Channel 1 is the bright input; channel 2 is more bassy, and the two can be jumpered and mixed to taste.
We took our time developing an impression of the VariPlex, playing it for over two months. Bottom line – it produces an authentic, old-school Marshall voice with better EQ, clarity, and fresher, more vivid harmonic content. Its voice is exceptionally smooth, yet capable of acquiring the melancholy edginess of an early Clapton recording by simply managing EQ, and the Variac as a master volume control works brilliantly. The VariPlex impressed us as a near-perfect example of an overbuild, hand-wired, low-production amp inspired by arguably the best efforts of Jim Marshall and company, circa 1968. Just as the Balls M18 became our modern benchmark for low-powered, classic Marshall tone, so goes the Blankenship VariPlex in the 50-watt range. If there is a better-sounding modern alternative toa vintage Marshall, we have yet to hear it.
We also admired the neat, clean and easy-to-read design of the VariPlex silver control panel, somewhat reminiscent of our old Park. Among all the clones being cloned with Mojo boxes, this amp is a visual standout. And as far as internal build quality is concerned, let the pictures speak for them-selves. In all respects the VariPlexis a solid piece of work,returned to the builder with as much regret as any amp we have ever reviewed. In fact, we’re still thinking about it. Plex forth….
Fender’s tiny Champion 600 is aimed at the guitarist who requires rich power-tube distortion at low volume levels. With just one 6V6 power tube putting out five watts, getting the little Champ to scream is no problem. Introduced after Epiphone’s similarly-sized Valve Junior, the Champ 600 has a smaller (6” compared to the Epi’s 8”) speaker, but the Champ is much more compact at 11” wide x 12” high and 7-1/2” deep. And at only 15 pounds, travelers can appreciate that it easily fits into a large suitcase (and leaves 35 pounds for jeans, toothpaste and Rogaine before the friendly ticket agent demands an additional $25).
Introduced after Epiphone’s similarly-sized Valve Junior, the Champ 600 has a smaller (6” compared to the Epi’s8”) speaker, but the Champ is much more compact at 11” wide x12” high and 7-1/2” deep. And at only 15 pounds, travelers can appreciate that it easily fits into a large suitcase (and leaves 35 pounds for jeans, toothpaste and Rogaine before the friendly ticket agent demands an additional $25). Out of the box, the Champion 600is an acceptable practice amp.But the word “acceptable” doesn’t mean much to the folks at Mercury Magnetics. Just as they did with the Epi Junior, Mercury conscripted Alan Cyr to devise a circuit that would bring the new Champion 600closer to the sound of the coveted and increasingly rare Champ of the 1950s.
First thing to go was the speaker, which Cyr deemed the most limiting feature of the stock package. A suit-able replacement came from Ted Weber. Next thing to be addressed was – believe it or not – volume.“The stock unit was not very loud,even for five watts,” Cyr noted.“There’s a tone stack without tone controls built into the stock unit with fixed resistor values. Also, there were some slope resistors to make the tone less harsh. They were trying to mimic a ’50s amp that had an octal tube socket with a miniature nine-pin dual-triode tube. Running the signal through a resistor bleeds off high frequencies as a sort of low-pass filter.”
What Cyr ended up with was not a purely Champ circuit because it lacked a negative-feedback loop. Then Mercury changed the pre amp and power amp transformers, and added a choke to create some filtering. They also eliminated about a dozen parts, greatly reducing parasitic loss of tone, which means the circuit most closely resembled a black-face Champ with a couple of changed cap and resistor values, with the goal of keeping the character of the 6V6 tube without having to push too hard.
Mercury says anyone who has replaced pickups or a tone switch should be able to accomplish this mod in a few hours (but of course anyone should very carefully read the instructions).
Without a guitar plugged in and even with the Volume knob all the way up, the modded Champ is nearly silent. A Gibson Les Paul Special with Rio GrandeP-90s plugged into the High input produced respectable, chimey-clean tones, especially through the Special’s bridge pick up with the Champ’s Volume knob at 4 or lower. Moving the Volume dial clockwise revealed a variety of distortion tones. It starts with a nice edginess and works its way up to full song. While the stock unit got a little shrill toward the end of the dial’s sweep, the Mercury-modded amp stays smooth all the way to the stop.
Next up was an equally practical Traveler Escape EG-1with humbucker in the bridge. Plugged into the High input, the EG-1 sang away with the Volume at 5 (this amp bests Nigel Tufnel by going to 12, by the way). After 6 it’s Dickey Betts, and 10 or beyond gives a fuzz that would have felt at home four decades ago in Golden Gate Park.
Plugging into the Low draws more character from the humbucker.There’s just a little more clarity and some nice Tom-Petty-style chime on the lower volume settings with the EG’s Tone knob on max. Twisting the amp’s Volume knob brings more distortion, but in refined degrees. Note clarity and definition remain through the entire sweep, and the amp is extremely touch-sensitive,even through the humbucker.
Combining the middle and bridge pickups through notch position four on a custom Strat plugged into the Low input, the Champion offered an amazing and well-balanced cluck.Position one (neck pickup) produced all the glass and steel it was intended to make, the middle position was clear yet warm, and the bridge pick-up could be coaxed to an aggressive,Telecaster-like attack.
The High input got all three pick-ups searing with sustain in any combination at any volume setting above 5. Most notably, the bridge pick up came alive and the Champion scored a knockout by providing great note clarity in the notch two position, which combines the neck and middle pickups. If an amp is going to fail on clarity in the ninth round, this is where it’s going to happen.—Bob Dragich
GA-35 RVT — Drop-in Upgrade! Please confirm mounting style before ordering
Soultone’s 1986ps SuperPlexi delivers classic rock tones a la the Marshall Bass head.
The opening chords to AC/DC’s “Down Payment Blues” are one of the best representations of classic overdriven British guitar tone. Those ringing, raunchy chords have a quality that goes beyond simply a wonderful sound; they can elicit other feelings and emotions as well. The driving force exhibited by the masterful rhythm playing, with the pick digging into the strings, has all of the bawdy, thick qualities that exemplify rock and roll. It conjures feelings of youth — the hair on the back of your neck rising to the occasion — accompanied by a blatant disregard for any sort of rules and the need to just rock out. It’s a cliché that’s entirely true, and only fully understood when standing in front of a raging, healthy British tube monster wielding a powerful, well-tuned axe. Soultone Amplification, based out of Chandler, AZ, has fully captured this potent sound with their line of variable power guitar amps. In addition, they have given special consideration to the appeals from players and producers who have attempted to control their rather unwieldy ancestors in the past.
The 1986ps SuperPlexi is clearly influenced by one of the most underrated amplifiers in history, the Marshall Bass head. These amps are sought after for their tonal similarities to the Lead series, with differences in the circuit that lead to more low end and softer highs. They came in two flavors, the 50-watt Bass and 100-watt Super Bass, just like their Lead counterparts. Guitarists quickly realized that not only did they sound great with a bass, but were excellent with a guitar as well. Readers who are not familiar with these amplifiers should listen to Duane Allman’s work on At Fillmore East, Malcolm Young’s AC/DC catalog, and Lemmy Kilmister’s recordings as bassist for Motorhead. That sound has gained attention from modern guitarists, such as Adam Jones [Tool], who is a major proponent of the Super Bass. Soultone has taken the iconic nature and characteristics of this sound and created their own interpretation, rife with new features and impeccable craftsmanship.
The opening chords to AC/DC’s “Down Payment Blues” are one of the best representations of classic overdriven British guitar tone. Those ringing, raunchy chords have a quality that goes beyond simply a wonderful sound; they can elicit other feelings and emotions as well. The driving force exhibited by the masterful rhythm playing, with the pick digging into the strings, has all of the bawdy, thick qualities that exemplify rock and roll. It conjures feelings of youth — the hair on the back of your neck rising to the occasion — accompanied by a blatant disregard for any sort of rules and the need to just rock out. It’s a cliché that’s entirely true, and only fully understood when standing in front of a raging, healthy British tube monster wielding a powerful, well-tuned axe. Soultone Amplification, based out of Chandler, AZ, has fully captured this potent sound with their line of variable power guitar amps. In addition, they have given special consideration to the appeals from players and producers who have attempted to control their rather unwieldy ancestors in the past.
The 1986ps SuperPlexi is clearly influenced by one of the most underrated amplifiers in history, the Marshall Bass head. These amps are sought after for their tonal similarities to the Lead series, with differences in the circuit that lead to more low end and softer highs. They came in two flavors, the 50-watt Bass and 100-watt Super Bass, just like their Lead counterparts. Guitarists quickly realized that not only did they sound great with a bass, but were excellent with a guitar as well. Readers who are not familiar with these amplifiers should listen to Duane Allman’s work on At Fillmore East, Malcolm Young’s AC/DC catalog, and Lemmy Kilmister’s recordings as bassist for Motorhead. That sound has gained attention from modern guitarists, such as Adam Jones [Tool], who is a major proponent of the Super Bass. Soultone has taken the iconic nature and characteristics of this sound and created their own interpretation, rife with new features and impeccable craftsmanship.
Considering how much power the guitarist has over the headroom in this amp, it is extremely easy to achieve great overdriven tone. Setting the EQ and Presence controls at noon, Power Scaling at 1 o’clock, Drive at noon, and plugging a Gibson Flying V into the upper left high-sensitivity input with Volume 1 at 10 o’clock is a great start to experience what this amp has to offer. Notes ring out with authority and punch, but without any sort of harshness that can be common in modern high-wattage master volume amps today. Beyond the satisfying, familiar crunch that the amp delivers, the there’s a surprising sensitivity to pick attack. Even with the relatively hot pickups in the Flying V, the 1986ps cleans up exceptionally well when playing with a light touch. Once you find the sweet spot, you might not even have to touch the volume knob at all to achieve a good clean — provided that you’re willing demand overdrive by smacking the strings with Nugent-like authority.
The real treat, however, was the tone achieved with a Gretsch G6118T, 125th Anniversary model. If there is one thing that the 1986ps SuperPlexi does exceptionally well, it is a great Malcolm Young tone. If Soultonedecided to change the name of the amp to The Powerage, they certainly wouldn’t be out of line. Telecaster players might want to consider the SuperPlexi too, as it performed very well with a Fender Road Worn Tele, adding some extra muscle and punch while softening the high end slightly (but not detrimentally).
The amplifier does not quit there. Packed with the head is a separate two-button footswitch. The first switch, simply labeled “Fat,” adds a 330uF bypass capacitor to the second gain stage. When engaged, there is a minor increase in volume, gain and bass. Soultone claims that it is more effective for more conservative volume settings. Its effectiveness seems to be entirely dependent on how the amp is set, however. Some settings made the Fat boost hardly noticeable at all; others can cause the amp to go from moderate to shaking the walls! There are some great sounds to be had here. The other switch either activates or deactivates a true bypass effects loop, located on the rear panel of the amplifier. With the extreme attention paid to every small detail of the construction of the 1986ps, Soultone decided that versatility should also be applied to the effects loop by adding separate Send and Return level controls.
This leads to a question: with all of the enhancements, high-quality components, low-noise circuitry and killer tone to boot, what can be said against the 1986ps? The price (starting at $2,199 with black Levant covering) is roughly comparable to the price that one of its decades-older counterparts commands now, minus all the added features and newer, more reliable components. Considering that older, single-channel British heads are in demand with players and collectors, however, scoring one at an affordable price has becoming more of a chore in recent years. Though the amp might cost a bit more than an original, the case could be made that the 1986ps would save more money in the long run on the expensive maintenance and upkeep that vintage heads sometimes require.
Modern metal rockers probably won’t be interested, although the SuperPlexi certainly has enough gain to satisfy players in the classic metal genre (late seventies to mid-eighties). Tonally, it is most definitely a classic rock-oriented amplifier, not suited for the modern rock crowd that enjoys extreme saturation and low-mid emphasis in their sound. For the player that is searching for the same type of tone on more of a budget, a simple single channel head without all the bells and whistles is probably in order.
For fans of the smooth, crisp overdrive tones of the ’60s and ’70s, the Soultone 1986ps SuperPlexi is definitely worth a good, solid test run. Players frustrated with Plexi-style amps with lack of low-end and harsh top-end sizzle should give it a try, too. I would highly recommend visiting Soultone’s website to get their detailed run down on their design and component selection process. For the price, features, solid construction and excellent tone, the 1986ps might signal the end of a tonal journey for quite a few rock guitarists.
Buy if…
Classic cleans and great British overdrive are your thing, and not having to spend a few bones on a good power attenuator suits you.
Skip if…
You need a more modern tone and the ability to switch between multiple channels, or you’re looking for the sharp, upper attack that 100-watt heads have in spades.
Rating…
Starting at $2199
Soultone Amplification
www.Soultoneamps.com
Source: https://mercurymagnetics.com/pages/news/PremierGuitar/PremierG-21.htm
CATEGORY 5’S ANDREWAND Typhoon Joe are all-tube, handwired two-channel amps with top-of-the-line Mercury Magnetics transformers, JJ and Tech-Cap electronics, Analysis Plus speaker wire, and silver-tinned Teflon wire, all attached to a two-millimeter aluminum chassis in an 11-ply Baltic birch cabinet fitted with Jensen Neo speakers.
Both amps have multiple-impedance capability, two speaker jacks, a line-out, and an adjustable line level.
There are controls for two non switchable channels on the front panel, with Volume and Tone controls for the first, and Volume, Treble, Middle, Bass for the second. A section labeled Global affects both channels, with a single control for reverb.
Using a reissue Gibson Les Paul Special with P-90 pickups and a kit guitar with Rio Grande single-coils, the 45-watt Typhoon Joe (with four 12AX7s, two EL34s and a solid state rectifier) sounds great and is a snap to control in terms of volume. Adjusting its overall output via the Wattage control lets the amp maintain its tonal characteristics no matter how many picture frames fall from the walls! There is a slight increase in headroom as voltage is dialed up, and a softening of the edges on the distortion as the voltage goes down, but it’s very subtle. And the EQ is remarkably consistent – a relief for those who’ve played amps that require channel-volume adjustment and tone-knob tweaks if they touch the Master. An A/B comparison confirmed the characteristic was common to both amps.
With its dual EL34s and 100-watt/12” speaker, the Typhoon Joe pushed out gorgeous tones with a distinctly British voice. Channel one gives a straight-up Marshall JTM45-like tone with single-coil pickups that help it produce a combination of mid range throatiness with high-end chime. The Typhoon is relatively clean (for a Marshall-type amp) to just past half-way on the Volume dial. Keep it below that, though, and it’s oh-so-easy to get Robert Cray-style cluck. Channel 2 has a late-’65s Marshall plexi tone at lower volumes, but the distortion become screamier as the Volume knob is dialed up. Even at upper settings, there wasn’t a hint of harshness, just more sustain.The P-90s had Channel 1 singing with the Volume knob halfway up. Using the bridge pickup with the Volume at three-quarters brought out a tight, rich, distortion, while turning down the Tone smoothed out the edge without killing the highs. The neck pickup was warm,even when driven hard, but did not become muddy, revealing the sound Larry McCray described in a recent interview as “woofy.” The P-90s were pure velvet in Channel 2 from about 40percent on up – rich, with just a bit of edge to keep the notes distinct.
Although the Andrew is rated at a few watts less than the Typhoon Joe, its two 100-watt 10” speakers make it seem louder. Its two 5881 tubes give it a more American sound and, if that’s not to your liking, a bias circuit allows the Andrew to run a variety of octal power tubes, including 6V6, 6L6,EL34, KT66, and even KT77 tubes,without re-biasing. Channel one has a pre-blackface Deluxe tone, if only the Deluxe weighed about 400 pounds.Clean(er) Fender tones prevail up to about halfway on the Volume, and after that it has slightly scooped mids with hair. The bridge-pickup tone was remarkably smooth, with no brittle highs. Channel 2 continued the Fender tones and sounded like a Super, but a little cleaner, like it had mated with a Twin. While the neck pickup was glassy, the middle pickup was called into service more than usual, Channel 2 bringing out the usual warmth of a middle Strat pickup, but with more clarity and aggression.
If you like P-90s, plugging into the Andrew is going to have a serious impact on the amount of sleep you get and how often you get out of the house.The neck pickup had a slight glass-on-steel sound like any good Strat pickup, but the Andrew emphasizes it while bolstering the added mids of a P-90. With the Volume at about 60 percent, the slightly under wound neck pickup was warm, full, and just a little edgy. Combining both pickups with the three-way switch in the middle gave a B.B.-type tone, only a little darker and more menacing. The bridge pickup by itself had more snarl and bite than with the Typhoon Joe.
Though neither Category 5 amp offers channel switching, their channels are in phase, so an A/B/Y footswitch allows for days of tonal exploration. And because of the Wattage control, both amps make great bedroom and studio amps that produce full-bodied distortion at low volumes. – Bob Dragich
MAD PROFESSOR AMPLIfication founder Harri Koski built his reputation first by distributing high-quality effects pedals hand-made in Sweden by amp and pedal designer Bjorn Juhl, and later by building an amplifier and pedal company around Juhl’s design work. A couple years ago he decided to build a new guitar amplifier that would complement his pedals, so he teamed up again with Juhl. The culmination of their work is the MP101. A 100-watt channel-switching head, the MP101 is hand-made by Koski’s company in Finland. Dressed in black-and-tan Tolex on a Baltic birch cab, its front panel has controls for Volume for each channel, as well as Treble, Middle, Bass, Presence, Master 1, and Master 2, and a channel switch for use when the foot switch is not connected. Removing the back panel reveals a preamp section consisting of five 12AX7s, and a power section of four TADEL34Bs and two oversized Mercury Magnetics transformers that help the amp handle transients and give it tight bass response. Inside, one can see Koski and Juhl have eyes for detail, given (among other things) the MP101’s perfectly curved Baltic birch cab.
On the back panel, the MP101 has five speaker outputs, two 4-ohm, two 8-ohm, and one 16-ohm. There’s also an effects loop and a foot switch jack for channel switching. Classy-looking air vents lend an aesthetic highlight to the top and back of the cab. We plugged the MP101into a Celestion-loaded 4×12 and opted for three guitars to test the MP; a Gibson Les Paul ’59 Reissue, a PRS Swamp Ash Special, and an ’87Fender Strat. Plugging in, one is met with a number of revelations. First is how the MP101 has a tone of volume on tap, yet it’s amazingly responsive, regardless of where you set the master Volume. Plugging into Channel 1 with the PRS at a very low volume setting, the amp easily fills a room, and surprisingly, can be made to overdrive via simple pick attack. The channel is never perfectly clean with humbuckers or healthy volume-knob roll-off. Second, the amp has a very wide frequency range; this is due in part to circuit design and the oversized output tranny (SRV put a larger Bassman tranny in his Super Reverb to get clear low end). Even with the Strat, the Mad Professor produced thick lows and smooth highs.
A third revelation; with its tight power section, Channel 1 is very reminiscent of a Marshall Majoror Hi-Watt, but again, with a respon-sive preamp.
Switching to Channel 2, the dirt level rises dramatically. Even with Volume 2 on a very low setting, the amp has more than a tow-sack full of grind on-hand. This channel is a rock beast regardless of guitar or pickups! Like any amp with two channels that share an EQ section, a dedicated Middle control here would be nice. Rolling up the Master control, the amp gets louder and louder until you essentially cannot stand in the room with it! We were left scratching our heads at the 100-watt rating.
After putting the amp through its paces dry, we setup a bevy of stomp-boxes in front of it. Since the MP was designed to be pedal-friendly, it was no surprise it handled all things stomp-box. With everything from fuzz to chorus to extreme boost, the Professor was more than amicable. Echo effects through Channel 2 sounded notably better run through the effects loop.
The MP101 is a robust rock workhorse with a very high level of build quality and attention to detail.
Again, this amp has a ton of volume on tap, so it isn’t for the bed-room player or coffeehouse plunk-er. No, sir. This one is for larger venues, where it can express itself via its thunderous volume, responsive preamp, and wide frequency range. An overbuilt 100-watt head that traces its roots to high-powered British amps, the MP101 has power to pummel the average play-er and his 4×12 into complete submission!—Zac Childs
The Carry-On is part of Roy Blankenship’s LEEDS21 Series. It was designed to provide the traveling musician a small and lightweight amp to keep “that familiar sound” when taking your regular stack is not an option. Having been in the unfortunate position of having to borrow amps while on the road, I was curious about whether or not a small, 21-watt amp would deliver, especially since I use a 120-watt amp live. Looks can be deceiving — this little guy is loud, making it a worthy amplifier for both studio and live use. Employing two 12AX7s, two EL84s and a single 6CA4 rectifier, the Carry-On is voiced for the classic British tone of the ’60s, but with modern updates that may make some enthusiasts think twice about leaving the house again with their prized vintage amp. Created with the idea that less is more, the Carry-On is a sharp looking boutique amp with its cool nameplate and spade logo. At first glance, it looks like a lunch-box version of a Marshall plexi replica, with its familiar gold panels, black Tolex and Marshall-style knobs. As for features, the Carry-On’s front panel provides Volume and Tone controls, one Input, On/Off/Standby switch and a huge, bright purple jewel lamp. The back panel has a 3-way switch for 4, 8 or 16 ohms, and two speaker outs.
When I first plugged into the Carry-On, I ran a Gibson SG-X with a 500T humbucker straight in (no pedal chain) and used an Orange PPC412 cab with Eminence Governors. Going for all or nothing, I cranked the volume clockwise to 8 with the guitar volume at 10. I was instantly won over by the tonal quality of this amp. Before even touching the Tone knob I was surprised at how powerful the Carry-On was, but also how perfectly dialed in the tone was. I can’t imagine the care and time it would take to voice an amp this well with the idea of giving the player only two controls. The overall sound of the amp is crunchy, bright and responsive with excellent sustain. The Tone control adjusts the amount of low to high range; while it’s not a very extreme control, it does provide a final touch to an already killer sound. I found 6 to be to my liking, because it gave me a little more on the top end to match the Eminence Governors’ midrange. Turning up to 10 the sound didn’t fall apart, but provided even more gain and power.
Backing off my guitar volume and flipping the coil-tap switch to a single coil, I lowered the amp volume to around 4 to 6. The Carry-On provided a transparent clean sound, complimenting the bright and punchy qualities of the 500T in single-coil mode. After stumbling up the stairs and discovering that I’d been playing for about three hours straight, I was sold. While I had the amp, I got the chance to use it in the studio to double guitar tracks. I ran a ’72 Fender Telecaster reissue with Warmoth baritone neck, Rio Grande Dirty Harry single coil in the bridge and the stock Fender jumbo humbucker in the neck. The combination of the Carry-On’s raw crunch, the bite of the Telecaster and the low end of the baritone strings supplied plenty of low growl, complimenting my Sound City L120’s darker tones. The Carry-On also accepts pedals very well, if the gain provided by the amp isn’t enough. It handled all the distortion and fuzz pedals I threw at it like a champ. I only wish this amp had a line out, so I could have slaved out the Sound City for even more volume.
The Final Mojo
Though the Carry-On recreates the sound of old, there are some very modern traits to the amp that may make it more desirable than using a vintage amp live, or even in studio situations. The sturdy power supply is one. The other is that the Carry-On runs at modern voltages, unlike older amps that were made to run at lower voltages. This allows the Carry-On to achieve its full potential, giving you 1960s tone without having to change the caps on your vintage amp. Designed to give the player straight to amp tone, the Carry-On will make you forget all about a master volume (which squashes your preamp tubes anyway). While pedal effects makers and software companies may try to reproduce it and may come close, there is nothing quite as inspiring as standing in front of a revved up valve amp at full volume. Hiwatt, Sound City, and Marshall enthusiasts would do well to check out Roy Blankenship’s amp line. The Carry-On comes at a street price that makes it obtainable for a boutique amp — especially next to that plexi you’ve been watching on eBay. Now I just have to save my pennies to buy one, or skip the country with the one in my basement.
Buy if…
you’re looking for classic British tone.
Skip if…
21 watts is not enough.
Rating…
Street $1499 (includes ballistic nylon carry bag and shoulder strap) — Blankenship Amps — BlankenshipAmps.com
Source: https://mercurymagnetics.com/pages/news/PremierGuitar/PremierG-23.htm
Many of you are already familiar with our resident amp tech, studio owner/engineer and advisory board member Jeff Bakos. In his spare time, Jeff occasionally builds amps for clients on request, and lately he’s been asked to build… you guessed it – small little biters. Since his personal GA-5 has been featured so often on various recording projects, Jeff toyed with the idea of recreating the Gibson GA-5 Skylark for a minute, but given the fact that vintage GA-5s remain fairly plentiful, he ultimately decided to design his own simple take on a smallish amp – the 8 Ball. Housed in a Mojo Champ cabinet, the 8 Ball is built with one of our favorite tens, the Eminence Legend Alnico 1058 (that’s a hint), Mercury Magnetics trannies and choke, and premium components, including Sozo coupling caps. With the bigger Mercury Princeton transformer set, the single 6V6 / 12AX7 / 5Y3 design is capable of producing 10 watts of power. Features include dual inputs, volume and tone controls, a front panel line out jack, and a “vintage” / ”modern” toggle switch also conveniently mounted on the front panel.
The “vintage” setting produces pristine Fendery clean tones up to 12 o’clock on the volume control, gradually followed by a progressively thicker growl with intense distortion and sustain. In this setting, the 8 Ball surpasses all the other small amps we’ve reviewed in terms of practical versatility with stronger, louder clean tones and a more gradual It’s back! We are now resuming limited production of our meticulous recreation of the original 1959 DeArmond R15 1×12 amp. You may recall that we initially produced a limited number of TQ Clarksdale amps in 2006, before our supplier for the original chassis informed us that small runs would no longer be possible. We’ve found a new supplier, and the TQ Clarksdale “DeArmonds” will be built again by Jeff Bakos with our original specs – pin cabinet construction and design identical to the original, original Mercury Magnetics Tone Clone transformer set cloned from our original ’59 DeArmond, hand-wired chassis, premium components including Sozo caps, Celestion G12H 70th Anniversary speaker, premium JJ and Tung-Sol tubes, Evidence Audio speaker cable, custom gold grill cloth and blonde Tolex covering. This 22 watt design represents one of the rarest and most toneful combos ever built. The original 1959 DeArmond 1x12s were built for just one year in Toledo, OH, and a clean example recently sold on eBay for $7000. In 2006 Jeff Bakos meticulously blue-printed our original DeArmond, Mojo created CAD drawings from the original cabinet design, and we sent the transformers to Mercury Magnetics to be cloned. The result is a phenomenal 1×12 that will generally kick any tweed Deluxe straight to the curb with a bigger, bolder voice and lush, musical distortion cranked. The 4-input, cathode-biased Clarksdale can be operated with dual 6V6s and 5Y3 rectifier for optimum burn, or a pair of 6L6s and 5AR4 for slightly more power and clean headroom. Blonde Tolex only, simply because it’s the coolest color…
In 1963, the Silvertone 1484 or “Twin Twelve” was top-of-the-line among the amplifiers offered by Sears, Roebuck and Co. It debuted with a whopping catalog price of $149.95 (the equivalent of $1000 today)! Though once headed north of $800 on the latter day collectible market, the economy has seen these tone bandits recently dip back under the $500 mark. The 1484 is one of tone expert Andy Brauer’s all-time favorite amps, and rightfully so, since this baby can rock the socks off the meanest swamp alligators!
Every time someone asks you about sleeper amps, you bring up the Twin Twelve and how it’s one of your favorites. What’s the deal?
Twin Twelves are killer – really magical. Back in the day, you could pick one up at a garage sale for $25 or $50! People sold them as speaker cabinets; they didn’t even know it was an amplifier because the head sits underneath in the cab. It’s an innovative design feature for which we can thank Nathan Daniel; he developed and supplied them to Sears.
How long ago was it they were going for $25?
In the ’70s. But even today, these amps remain very undervalued. Most I see are fairly unmolested and still have the original tubes. They’re clean, or easy to clean because for some reason they weren’t as used or abused as other amps I see in my shop – most have remained closet-classic clean.
Their values jumped, though, when The White Stripes became popular and players learned Jack White’s killer sound was through Silvertone amps.
I agree. He was using a 1485 – the 100-watt version of the 1484, with six 10s. It’s much cleaner-sounding, with more headroom, punchier, with big, tight low-end. Jack liked the clarity – the chimey highs, the thick midrange, and the whoompf on the bottom.
What makes up the heart of the 1484?
It has two 6L6s for power, three 12ZX7s in the preamp, two 6FQ7s for the phase inverter and reverb driver, and a solid-state rectifier. And there’s a funky little reverb tank in them, but most I see are broken.The example on my bench at the moment is from early 1964. Some of the post are ’63, but most are ’64 and the speakers are ’64, which leads me to believe it’s an early-’64 model. The speakers are Jensen C12Qs, ceramic, with 20- to 25-watt capacity. Their small magnetics tend to break up faster and be a little honkier.
Funny, it doesn’t sound like a modern 50-watt amp. More like20 watts.
That’s partly because the voltages on the power tubes – the first-stage plate resistors – are 229k. First-stage plate resistors on the typical Fender amp are 100k.
So the Fenders’ allow more current to flow?
Yes. This results in a lot more headroom, a lot more clarity, and more overall punch. Most modern amps run their tubes, and their entire circuit, hotter than vintage gear. They try and squeeze more bang for the buck out of their amps, sometimes mistaking louder for better.
The nice thing about Silvertone amps, and the Twin Twelve especially, is that by raising some of the resistance, and the way Nat Daniel developed the circuit, results in a very nice note compression that isn’t found in many other amps. The hard edges are taken off the notes. Also, the Twin Twelve’s tone controls are interactive – the more you turn up the Treble and Bass, the more gain you get. So if you want it real clean, turn the Volume to 3 or 4, turn the tone controls down to 2 or 3 respectively and you can get some clarity out of it. But after 3 or 4 on the dial, the amp gets gainier and gainier.
I noticed that the tremolo and reverb affect gain, as well. If you turn everything up, the amp turns into a real monster.It’s not a multi-tasking amplifier. It likes to do reverb, or it likes to do tremolo. If you do both, it gets fussy… but it sounds great, by the way! The 6L6 screen voltage is about 150 volts below plate value, so these amps are not pushing the tubes much at all. When you’re that conservative on the wattage, you reduce headroom. It’s almost like talking a Variac to the incoming voltage. When you Variac it down a touch, you lose clean headroom and get more overdrive.
These amps are not extremely loud, but what they do have is a instantly likeable, friendly tone that really grabs you and kind of encourages you to play with it. It’s very bluesy. It’s aggressive, and it’s compressed, but without the drawbacks of compression. It’s not like a 6V6-driven amp that squashes the sound, it’s more of a high-fidelity sound. It compresses the sound like an LA2A limiter – almost limiting the compression versus squashing it like a 6V6 Deluxe or like a brown Deluxe. The tone stack enhances the tone and adds gain, versus cutting or boosting lows and highs.
So, do you like to just turn everything all the way up on the Twin Twelve?
Who doesn’t like to do that every once in a while on any amp? But no, not as a general rule. Amps that I like, I set the tone controls to five, to start. From there I play with the Volume. And then, believe it or not, I’ll go around the amp with a screwdriver and a socket wrench, and start tightening bolts on the speaker, or tune the cabinet to a certain frequency to get the amp to ring. The Twin Twelve has a ported cabinet with a back panel that’s open on the bottom. One can play with the screws inside the cabinet to torque them all to the same tension, so that sound reverberates off all parts of the cabinet at the same pressure.
Kind of like tuning the head on a drum – you want even tension all the way around…
Exactly. When I do that to a cabinet and the speakers, I hear a difference.
These amps came with 25 feet of cable to separate the speaker from the head. The old Sears catalogue claimed that this was to eliminate feedback. Is there any truth to that?
That was a marketing gimmick. They wanted the musician to be able to place the head near where they were standing, and place the cab away from them, with the idea that the further the cab was from the pickups, the less chance there was for feedback.
Who are some high-profile players who use these?
Obviously, Jack White brought them into the spotlight. But I’ve seen many players – Dean Parks, Ronnie Woods, Keith Richards, Lyle Workman, Josh Homme, Ry Cooder, and David Lindley – use them. It tends to be a staple in major recording studios, so music fans have heard them on countless albums, though they may not be aware.
Do a lot of these amps come in for repairs and such?
I see the 1×12 version, the 1482. And I’ve definitely worked on my share of the 1484s. When I’m servicing a Silvertone, nine out of 10 times it’s merely pitted and dirty and just needs its pots cleaned, and maybe tension the tube sockets or re-solder something for good contact. Generally, the tubes are pretty good, and many Silvertones have original tubes.
Were the Silvertone tubes in these made specifically for Sears?
There were OEM. I’m not sure if they were RCA, GE, or Sylvania, but they were definitely American manufacture. Vintage RCA and GE tubes are considered some of the best, and the tubes in these are terrific. Consider it’s possible to purchase a Silvertones for a few hundred dollars. If original tubes are in there, that’s at least $100 just in tubes!
Are they good for mods?
Not that I’d recommend. Just restore them back to stock.
Other good Silvertones?
The bass version, the model 1483, is pretty awesome. It’s the same circuit minus the reverb and tremolo, and driven through a 1×12 cabinet. It’s 50 watts, as well. Most Silvertones were given numbers as model names, but the Twin Twelve was branded because it was top of the line. The only other amp Silvertone branded was the 1434, which was dubbed the Medalist.
How do the tremolo and reverb sound?
The reverb isn’t the best, but it’s not bad – it’s fashionably anemic. The tremolo is great – very surf-sounding and muted, in a nice way, unlike a Gibson tremolo, which is bright and pingy.
Are there a lot of Twin Twelves out there?
Yes. They were manufactured only form 1963 to ’66, but were apparently churned out in large numbers. There’s almost always one for sale in online auctions, and I often see them in music stores. As I said, they tend to be in fairly good shape, though if exposed to moisture the particleboard tends to fall apart. Aside from that, there are no major issues. They don’t always ship well, though – the reverb tanks can get messed up. But there’s nothing that can go wrong on these that can’t be fixed; all the parts are readily available. If you blow the transformer, a Mercury Magnetics replacement is available.
Another interesting feature is that if you open up the back panel on the speaker cab, you’ll see there’s a hidden shelf. It’s a baffle.
What for?
It’s a bass trap, for lower frequencies. When the bass comes off the back of the speakers, the baffle catches it and sends it forward again. You get a little bit more of a thump than with most open-back cabs. It was really kind of a revolutionary design Nat Daniel came up with, and I don’t know of any other amps that employ it. (Ed. Note: Daniel had a patent on the speaker cabinet design with inclined baffles called the “acoustical case”.)
Sonically, what would you compare this amp to?
Probably a Fender, as it has a really nice twang. But it’s a bit darker. It offers a terrific Dick Dale surf tone as well.
Cranked up?
Well, listen to any White Stripes album!
Manufacturers Step Up to Help Nashvilles
Nashvilles, TN – in the wake of the devastating Nashvilles floods, the music community has relied to help musicians affected by the flood rebuild their rigs and their lives. Among the companies reaching out in various ways are Guitar Center, Visual Sound pedals, Mercury magnetics transformers, and Gibson- whose Nashville factory also suffered losses.
In response to the last month’s devastating flood in Nashville, custom transformer builder Mercury Magnetics is offering to salvage and/or restore flood-damaged transformers free of charge. The process includes inspection and testing, evacuating moisture, and re-varnishing.
“Vintage and rare amps are never going to sound the same if this process isn’t done correctly,” said Patrick Selfridge, Service Manager for Mercury. “There’s a potential tragedy of some historically important tone being lost forever if those transformers are not properly brought back to life.”
Mercury reports a 90 percent success rate using their process. The company can be reached at (818) 998-7791 or via their website, www.MercuryMagnetics.com.
* * *
Also, Music Rising, a campaign launched to aid musicians in the Gulf Coast region impacted by hurricanes Katrina and Rita, has pledged $250,000 to Nashville and the musicians affected by the floods. Co-founded by U2’s the Edge, producer Bob Ezrin, and Gibson CEO Henry Juszkiewicz, Music Cares will aid musicians with the repair and replacement of instruments damaged or destroyed in the recent Tennessee floods.
“Nashville is a treasure chest of Southern heritage and American musical tradition, and is indisputably the world’s country music capital. But it’s more than that. It is also home to one of the greatest concentrations of musical talent on earth,” said U2’s the Edge. “The news of the floods brought back terrible memories of Katrina and when Anderson Cooper of CNN titled his new coverage Nashville Rising, it became obvious what we had to do.”
Anyone interested in donating to Music Rising’s Nashville Flood Relief effort can do so by going to www.GibsonFoundation.org. To apply for assistance, visit www.MusicCares.com.
Source: https://mercurymagnetics.com/pages/news/VGmag/VGAug10-Nashville.htm
Wizard amps founder Rick St. Pierre has been the amp tech in charge of keeping AC/DC’s Angus and Malcolm Youg rocking for two decades. In the early ’90s he began building amps, and his latest offering is the Modern Classic.
A 100-watt head with a judicious nod to a hot-rodded vintage Marshall, the Modern Classic has a Lexan front panel with on/off and standby switches, indicator lamp, and knobs for Presence, Bass, Middle, Treble, Lead Master (with a pull boost), Lead Gain (pull to activate lead channel), indicator light for lead mode, rhythm volume (with pull boost), and High- and Low-Gain inputs. The back panel has a selector for choosing 4-, 8- and 16-ohm input, two speaker outputs, a line-out jack with its own level control, and footswitch jacks to control channel switching and boosts.
There’s also military-spec turret board wiring, done by hand. The matching black Tolex-covered 4×12 cab with basket weave grill cloth is made of birch plywood and has Wizard’s proprietary Rock 20 ceramic-magnet speakers. It plugs in via a standard 1/4” speaker jack and there’s another for an extension cab.
Teamed with a Gibson Les Paul running into its rhythm channel, the Classic produced the big, wide, full-frequency clean tone that can only be had with a 100-watt amp with large transformers. The tones were firm and in-your-face, as you’d expect from stout transformers and four EL34s.
Turning up the Rhythm channel to full-on grind quickly reveals further benefits. Low-end response stayed tight and focused while the Volume knob was rolled up all the way. This channel is especially nice, given its ability to produce the clean-yet-dirty driving tones that help Malcolm Young do his thing.
With a Fender Stratocaster, you get less dirt, of course, but the tones are equally great; the pull boost does well getting the Strat on more-equal footing with a humbucker guitar. And this is a good time to say that Wizard makes a great-sounding cab. It offers robust tone with great late-breakup characteristics. The custom-made 20-watt speakers sound like a cross between a Celestion Greenback and an Anniversary G12H30 – a great combination of firmness and woodiness. Kudos to the speaker maker. Typical of a well-made 4×12, it weights 85 pounds.
Switched to the Lead channel via the pull function on the Lead Gain control, the tone became a bit less bright and (as it should) offers more gain. Even at lower settings, it has a nice amount of drive no matter which guitar is plugged in. And even at maximum volume, the Lead channel held together with a tight, sinewy tone that never approached mush-out. Running with boost pedals, the amp not only responds well to added input gain, it seems to push back some in terms of touch and/or feel of the instrument.The Modern Classic may not be the ideal club amp, given that its sweet spot is at a relatively high volume (club players should check out the 50-watt version). But it’s designed for the traveling pro who needs an amp that will produce tight, gainy tones from the beginning of a gig until the end. Its build quality is second to none, and tonally, it’s at the top of its class.
EH150 — #T8681 — please contact us before ordering
GA-5 — 5V winding. Please confirm mounting style before ordering
GA-5T (Skylark) — no 5V winding — 120V primary — #TF-5A-P
Flat mount — bolt hole spacing is 2″ x 2 1/2″
GA-5 Skylark — 5V winding 240V primary — Please confirm mounting style before ordering
GA-5 Les Paul Jr. — Please confirm mounting style before ordering
GA-40
GA-50 — late 1950s
GA17RVT — single 8Ω tap — #TF-18-01 — 2 3/8″ mounting centers
Kalamazoo Reverb 12 — two EL84 tubes — single 8Ω secondary tap
EH150 — #T-22558 — please contact us before ordering
TF-1001-D
GA-5 Skylark Crestline — no 5V winding — no CT on 6.3V filament winding — 120V primary
#TF-5A-P — Flat mount — bolt hole spacing is 2″ x 2 1/2″
GA-5 Les Paul Jr. — Original OT is #5584 — 10.5 kΩ primary, single 4Ω tap
Bolts to speaker frame — mounting centers are 2-3/8″
GA-5 — 8k primary — 8Ω tap — #174A7 — 2″ mounting centers
GA-20
GA-15RVT — 8 kΩ primary, single 8Ω tap — #TF-505-O
Horizontal mount, bolt hole spacing is 2 3/8″ center to center
’60s — #8790/80 — larger version
5H — 200mA
GA-15 –Original PT # TF 105 P
Flat mount — bolt hole spacing is 2″ x 2 1/2″
350-0-350VAC unloaded B+ — Center Tapped 6.3V — 5V Rectifier Winding — Styles vary: please confirm mounting style before ordering
GA-23 — Please confirm mounting style before ordering
